Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A stunning 19K yellow gold enhancer pendant intended for a thick chain or a strang of beads by Elizabeth Locke. The oval pendant encloses a gorgeous labradorite cabochon glowing with the billowy blue color of the best labradorite. The central stone is accented at compass points by round brilliant-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have a slightly violet tint and exceptional brilliance. The bail is hinged so the pendant can be slipped over a thick chain or onto a strand of beads or pearls. The interior of the bail is has Locke’s signature and is marked “19K”. The pendant is presented in its original Elizabeth Locke silk pouch. A similar pendant currently retails for $3,600.

Origin: America, ca. 2010. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/2” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.6 grams.

A 14K white gold pendant featuring a prong-set 1.04 carat diamond (H/I1). The diamond has very good cut and brilliance. The pendant is accompanied by an 18-3/4" white gold chain.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly opals in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The moonstones have bluish overtones with broad flashes of pinkish-orange. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” x 5/8”
• Weight: 15.8 grams

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with lapis lazuli inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was a lead designer at Tiffany & Co. She began working at Tiffany in 1967, but was not allowed to sign her own designs until 1974. These earrings are definitely her design, but are unsigned, indicating that they date from the period 1967-74. The earrings are marked “T&Co 18K”.

Origin: America, 1967-74. Size: 7/8” x 3/4". Weight: 15.6 grams.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than being faceted, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of this aquamarine is quite nice—almost a Prussian blue. The gold mounting is decorated with the fine florentined engraving often seen on Marx pieces. Some of Marx's rings are quite bulky, but the narrowness of this ring truly flatters the hand. The ring is an iconic piece and would be immediately recognizable by any Burle Marx collector. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “750” and “Ind. Bras”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, but his only boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. On of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4”. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/16”; shank tapers to 5/32” at the back. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by acclaimed jewelry designer Barry Kieselstein-Cord. The earrings are designed as rectangular plaques centering slightly domed centers surrounded by beaded borders. The surfaces have a hand-finished look and are bloomed for the slightly matte texture characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings have substantial weight. The backs are fully signed and are dated 1986.

• Origin: America, 1986
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 15.5 grams

Superb Mikimoto 18K yellow gold and pearl brooch in the shape of a cello. The cello’s body is set with 25 fine AA pearls graduating from 3.8 to 5.2 millimeters, and the tailpiece is studded with three round brilliant-cut diamonds. The f-holes, fingerboard, pegs and scroll are worked in gold and are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. An equally fine brooch in our collection, in the shape of a harp (Item #514948) was appraised in March 2006 by the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

A classic gold “Open Heart” pendant in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design has become one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable designs. This pendant is currently available in three sizes, this version (27mm) being the largest. The pendant is suspended from its original Tiffany chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti” and both the pendant and chain are fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece is currently available at Tiffany & Co. and retails for $1250.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: chain, 18-1/4” long; pendant, 1” x 1-1/16” (25 x 27 mm). Weight: 10.5 grams.

A pair of 18K yellow gold clip-on earrings from Elsa Peretti’s “Comma” collection for Tiffany & Co. These are the large size, which are quite difficult to find. The design was inspired by the simple, sweeping curve of a comma. When worn, the arc mirrors the shape of the ear for a sleek, contemporary look. Each earring is marked by Tiffany and signed Peretti. Only the small size (less than half as long and about a third the weight) are currently available at Tiffany for $3,000.

• Ca 1990
• Condition: excellent, no dings
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 7/8” (38 x 19 mm)
• Weight: 13.3 grams

Gorgeous pair of signed Mikimoto 18K yellow gold, pearl and diamond earrings. Each earring features a cluster of five 6.0—6.5 mm pearls, topped with a golden bow and sprinkled with prong-set round brilliant-cut diamonds. The pearls have white body color with strong rosé overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are free of blemishes. The pearls are extra fine AAA—in other words, the absolute finest quality available anywhere in the world. The diamonds are of equally fine quality, rated at E color, VVS clarity. The backs have posts and omega clips. Each earring is marked with Mikimoto’s shell hallmark and “750” for 18K. The earrings are presented in their original Mikimoto hinged box, along with the original Mikimoto gift box.

The earrings are accompanied by an August 2006 written appraisal for $6,500 by Bailey, Banks & Biddle’s Mikimoto specialist appraiser.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/32” x 15/16”. Weight: 16.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 carat.

Vintage 18K yellow gold brooch designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The “Scribble” design (sometimes called “Graffiti” or “Squiggle”) is probably the artist’s most famous creation and became one of Tiffany’s most desirable pieces. The pin was available in several sizes, this example being the second largest. The “Scribble” line is no longer in production and examples are getting difficult to find. The back is dated 1983, is marked by Tiffany & Co., and is signed Paloma Picasso. The pin is presented with its Tiffany pouch.

Origin: America, ca. 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 2-5/8”. Weight: 22.5 grams.

A stunning pair of 18K noble gold and natural fancy-colored diamond earrings from the Snowflake collection by H Stern. Each earring is composed of three snowflakes of graduated size, each set with round brilliant natural fancy-colored diamonds in subtle shades ranging from honey to pale golden brown. The diamonds average VS2 clarity. The earrings are made with 18K noble gold, a color somewhere between white gold and yellow gold that Stern created in 2001. Noble gold has the unique ability to shift color, either toward yellow or toward white, depending on what it’s being worn with. It has a warm tone that looks particularly good with the colored diamonds. The back of each earring, as well as the clutches, are marked for 18K gold and are signed by H Stern. The earrings currently retail for $7500 at H Stern.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 2013. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: length, 48 mm (1-7/8 in); largest snowflake diameter, 21 mm (13/16 in). Weight: 13.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.76 ct.

An attractive 18K gold and green chalcedony band. The carved chalcedony band is enclosed by gold on each side and is adorned with a gold crossband at the front. The ring is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca 1970
• Condition: very good, minor wear to the back side of the gold band
• Finger Size: 6-1/4
• Width: 3/16”
• Weight: 2.1 grams

An elegant and exceptionally high quality pair of earclips in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and sapphires by A Péry et Cie. The earrings feature fields of pave-set round brilliant diamonds bisected by bands of rectangular cut blue sapphires. The diamonds are E color and VS2 clarity; the sapphires are medium-dark strong blue (B6/5) color and eye-clean clarity. Each earring is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and is signed by A. Péry et Cie. The clips have holes, so posts could be added without disrupting the integrity of the earrings.

Péry worked as manufacturer for Van Cleef & Arpels, but also worked for Boivin, Mellerio and other important French jewelers. Péry was responsible for some of VCA most iconic 20th century designs including the Ludo bracelet and the zipper necklace. The Péry ateliers are now owned by VCA.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 14 x 24 mm (9/16 x 15/16 in). Weight: 17.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 ct; sapphire, 3.25 ct.

A superb modernist 18K yellow gold pendant set with a large bi-color tourmaline. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his bold use of very large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting. The color of this tourmaline shades from deep green to deep purplish-red. The gold mounting which slightly mimics the outline of the tourmaline is decorated with stippling and Florentine engraving. The back is is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “18K” and “No Bras”.

Marx exclusive boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC but he maintained close ties to his native Brazil. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.1 grams.

A stunning platinum and 18K yellow gold eternity band set with diamonds in the "Estelle" design by Van Cleef & Arpels. These rings are made only by special order, and the wait time is a minimum of three months. The classic design is named for Estelle Arpels whose 1896 marriage to Alfred Van Cleef gave rise to the luxury jewelry house. The 10-point brilliant cut round diamonds are bead-set in a platinum band flanked on either side by a beaded yellow gold edge. As expected of VCA, the diamonds are of superb quality, estimated at F color, VVS2 clarity. The eternity band design is a classic and can be worn as a wedding ring or simply as a designer ring. The interior of the band is signed "VCA NY" and has the serial number "5V263.6

VCA quotes a price for Estelle rings only at the time of order, and the price fluctuates depending upon the carat weight , which in turn fluctuates based on the size of the ring and client's wishes. The Estelle ring set with slightly less than 1.0 carats last retailed at $6,500. A 2-carat would be roughly in the $12,000 range.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1/4" wide. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.1 carats.

Superb Mikimoto brooch in the shape of a harp. The harp’s sounding board is set with a row of ten fine AA pearls graduating from 3.3 to 5.8 millimeters, and the strings are studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The neck and column, both worked in gold, are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare, and this example is nearly certainly a custom-made piece. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. The brooch is accompanied by a March 2006 written appraisal from the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/32” x 1-5/32”. Weight: 11.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .12 carat.

A colorful pair of 14K yellow gold earrings by popular New York jewelry designer Sonia Bitton, whose collections have been sold at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. The earrings feature round cut amethysts, citrines, peridots, blue zircons, pink tourmalines and garnets, each set in a movable bezel. When being worn, the bezels move freely on their framework, allowing the gems to shimmer. The back are signed “Sonia B” and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Size: 13/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, .8 ct; amethyst, .8 ct; zircon, .7 ct; tourmaline, .5 ct; peridot, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.