Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1002)

A stunning pair of 18K yellow and white gold earrings by Faraone in cooperation with Tiffany & Co. The yellow gold half-hoops are accented with white gold "stems" that burst open flowers set with marquise cut rubies. The rubies have fine slightly purplish-red color saturation. Intact inclusions indicate that the rubies are unheated. Faraone was one of the oldest jewelers in Italy, serving as court jeweler to the Royal household and to luminaries such as Maria Callas. The Settepasse family, Faraone's owners, joined forces with Tiffany in 1960 to manage Tiffany's European expansion. The companies jointly owned two boutiques in Milan and Florence. The earrings are signed by both Faraone and Tiffany, are marked for 18K gold, and have English import marks for 1990.

• Origin: Italy, 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 15/16"; width, 1/2"
• Weight: 19.5 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.0 carat

A classic sporting bracelet featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting a fox and a pair of horses. The gold mountings are formed from snaffle bits, horseshoes, riding crops, saddle belts and stirrups. The Essex crystals are expertly carved and painted with fine depth. The reverse is stamped with 14K marks and the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; no water damage or scratches.
• Dimensions: 7 1/2” long; 15/16” maximum width.
• Weight: 26.9 grams.

An 18K yellow gold and diamond necklace for the French luxury jeweler Fred of Paris. The design features a series of bar-shaped chain links interrupted by stations collet-set with round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The necklace is 16" long and is designed to curve gently around the lower neck. This length is very versatile for either evening or day wear. The necklace is signed "Fred" and is fully hallmarked with French 18K marks.

Fred Samuelson established his Paris boutique in 1936, and quickly became a favored jeweler to Marlene Dietrich and many other luminaries of the time. Today, there are a few boutiques worldwide, but Fred is still considered an understated luxury of quintessentially Parisian style.

• France, circa 1980
• 16" long; 3/16" wide
• 27.3 grams
• 1.1 carats approximate total diamond weight

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold and steel earrings by Fred of Paris. The original FORCE 10 line was created by French jeweler Fred Samuels in 1966 and was based on pieces of rigging found on sailboats. Since 1936, the Parisian house had been one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, the Samuels’ combination of precious metals with stainless steel was a shocking innovation. In the forty years since the collection debuted, Fred of Paris has continually tweaked the collection by adding gemstones or other decorative elements—in this case cloisonné enamel. The translucent green, red and blue flowers appearing against an opaque white background gives the earclips a casual style that meshes nicely with the gold and steel setting. They’d be perfect to wear with either jeans or business attire. The backs are fully hallmarked with the maker’s mark and the French 18K gold standard, and are signed “Fred of Paris/Force 10”.

Origin: France, ca. 1990-1998. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” long; 7/16” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold brooch in the form of a leopard by Fred of Paris. The leopard's spots a created of black enamel and his eyes are set with round emeralds flanked by round single-cut diamonds. The gemstones are of superb quality, as expected from one of the world's great jewelry houses. The brooch has a two-prong clip on the back. It bears French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Fred-Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/8" x 1-9/16". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .13 ct; emerald, .04 ct. Weight: 27.8 gr.

A lovely pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the classic 1950s combination of diamonds, turquoise and ruby. The cruciform shape and sophisticated use of gemstone colors is very much in the style of Verdura, Chanel and Van Cleef & Arpels pieces of the era. The gold petals are simply enhanced with twisted wire and the diamonds are set in platinum. Each earring is stamped with French gold and platinum hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16 x 15/16 in. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; ruby, 3.0 ct; turquoise, 3.28 ct.

A muscular dressage horse leaps through a gold ring in this handsome French 18K gold equestrian pendant or charm. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• France, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1” (excluding jump ring).
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

Handsome Napoleon III-era 18K gold brooch in the form of an eagle with spread wings. Eagle motifs were very popular in French jewelry of the 1860's and 70's. This example features a hook from which a lady could hang her gold watch. The eagle's beak holds a small ring that originally would have been attached to a tiny safety chain for the watch. This piece is decorated in the repousse manner, meaning that the design was created by working the gold from the back side rather than engraving the front. The detail is outstanding. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp. The back is stamped with the French "tete d'aigle" 18K gold hallmark and with the jeweler's mark (BF).

Origin: France, circa 1870. Condition: excellent, crisp detail. Size: 2-1/4" x 9/16" (excluding watch hook). Weight: 2.5 grams.

An 18K yellow gold medallion pendant or charm depicting Emperor Napoleon I. The design pictures Bonaparte as a young man, but the source appears to be Nicolas-Toussaint Charlet's portrait created in 1821, the year of the former Emperor's death. This image is largely credited with creating the myth of Napoleon that lasted throughout the 19th century. The medallion has superb, sharp detail shown in high relief. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• France, late 19th century
• 1 1/16" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• 12.6 grams

An attractive 18K gold and green chalcedony band. The carved chalcedony band is enclosed by gold on each side and is adorned with a gold crossband at the front. The ring is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca 1970
• Condition: very good, minor wear to the back side of the gold band
• Finger Size: 6-1/4
• Width: 3/16”
• Weight: 2.1 grams

An elegant Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold negligee pendant necklace, the old mine cut diamond drops formed as pansies. Pendant necklaces of this type, called negligees (from the French word for "careless"), were so called because of their assymetry. The subtle pansy design is achieved by combining three larger diamonds at the top of each cluster to represent larger petals, and two smaller petals at the bottoms. The knife edge bars suspending the clusters keeps the focus on the stones and create wonderful movement. The old mine cut diamonds (J/K color; SI1 clarity) have excellent fire for antique stones. The clasp and the pendant are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: pendant length, 1-5/8"; chain length, 17-3/8"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats.

Elegant Napoleon III 18K gold brooch in the Etruscan Revival taste. The pin is in bar form with pointed ends, interrupted in the middle by a round black onyx plaque centering a natural seed pearl. The domed setting around the onyx is set with six natural seed pearls. The pin on either side of the onyx plaque is decorated with an engraved Greek key design. The reverse is hallmarked with the "tete d'aigle" stamp for 18K gold and also with an unidentified jeweler's mark.

Origin: France, circa 1870. Condition: excellent; all original, including tube-hinged pinstem with trombone clasp. Size: 2-5/8" x 13/16" (widest). Weight: 6.5 grams.

An elegant pair of vintage earclips in 18K yellow gold set with pearls. Each earring is set with 19 4.5mm pearls of fine quality. The pearls have cream body color with nice luster, and are estimated at A+ quality. The setting is constructed in a way that it is nearly invisible when the earclips are being worn. The backs retain the original omega clips, but could easily have posts added. The backs are marked with the French “tete d’aigle” mark for 18K gold and also have an unidentified maker’s mark. One earring also has a partial serial number, generally the sign of a high-quality jeweler.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 29/32” diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams.

A stunning mid-century 18K yellow gold strap (or buckle or jarretière) bracelet enhanced with diamonds set in platinum by the Parisian jeweler Sabban & Azoulay. The strap is worked in an ornately constructed open weave design called “maille polonaise” or “Polish mesh” and is finished in a contrasting braided pattern. The strap ends with a row of graduated diamonds mounted in a v-shaped platinum setting finished with foxtail fringe. The clasp features two swirled gold clips, each with a triple row of diamond set in platinum. Unlike most strap bracelets, this example is constructed without closure holes so it is highly customizable to any wrist size. The diamonds are I color and VS1 clarity. The bracelet is stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for Sabban & Azoulay and with 18K and platinum marks.

• Origin: France, 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: strap width, 1-1/16”; clasp width, 1-5/8”; length excluding fringe, 9-1/4”; length including fringe, 10-1/4”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.0 carats
Weight: 97.4 grams

A lovely, heavy 18K yellow gold fancy cable chain necklace, with alternating double and beaded links. The chain is ornate enough to be worn simply as a necklace, but is sturdy enough so support a heavy pendant or multiple charms. The spring clasp is stamped with partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21-3/4" long. Weight: 10.9 gr.

A beautifully detailed 18K gold tombstone-shaped pendant dedicated to St. George. The front shows George on horseback killing the dragon with his spear. The sun is depicted in the background with a glowing red ruby cabochon. The reverse depicts a fishing boat carrying Jesus and several disciples across the stormy Sea of Galilee, with the Latin motto “In Tempestate Securitas” (“safety in the storm”). St. George medallions do not always include the ship imagery, but when it’s there, the piece was intended to protect against the perils at sea. Generally, St. George is the patron saint of knights, soldiers, scouts, fencers, and archers, but he apparently also had a knack with the plague, leprosy, and venomous snakes.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-1/16” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 14.4 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .05 carat.

A lovely conversion ring featuring a a guilloche enamel plaque centered with a blue sapphire cabochon. The pale blue translucent enamel is accented with engine-turned engraving and is surrounded by a border of opaque white enamel with gold accents. The ring was created from an Edwardian stickpin with the addition of a 14K gold shank (the front is 18K).

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .13 ct
• Weight: 2.3 grams

An outstanding 18K gold shield-form perfume locket ("vinaigrette"), opening to reveal two compartments separated by a hinged crystal cover. The front cover is worked in an ornate pierced and engraved design in the Persian taste. The tiny pierced openings are concealed within the design and are intended to permit the escape of scent from a tiny perfume-soaked sponge that can be wedged inside the front cover. Vinaigrettes of this sort were used by ladies to ward off the unpleasant odors of the streets. The back cover is more simply decorated in a stippled pattern that vaguely suggests fleurs-de-lys. When opened, the back side can accommodate a portrait. The two halves are separated by a thick crystal cover with beveled edges set in gold. The locket hangs from a scrolled bail ornament. The gold has a slightly rosy tint. The inside edges are stamped with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: very good, sharp detail; the back cover has a few small dings visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 15/16” (40 x 23 mm)
• Weight: 21.0 grams