Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1002)

A very attractive Retro 14K yellow gold and platinum ring, set with an old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of round blue sapphires. The stones are set in very interesting mounting with a looping quality typical of Retro pieces. The diamond is I color, I1 clarity and the sapphires are graded as medium tone, moderately strong violet-Blue (vB5/4). Retro pieces set with sapphires are less common than those featuring ruby, citrine, amethyst, etc. The interior of the shank is stamped “585” for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/8” x 3/4”. Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 4.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; sapphire, .39 ct.

Lovely 14K yellow gold Retro Modern brooch set with blue sapphires and diamond. The wreath-like form of this pin is very unusual, and is especially effective when placed against dark fabric. One side of the wreath is anchored by a spray of sapphire "flowers" tied with a diamond-set ribbon. The setting is quite heavy. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, circa 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .55 carat; diamond, .10 carat.

An elegant Retro 14K yellow gold floral brooch, the flower head set with a ring of blue sapphires surrounding a cabochon moonstone. This classic combination of moonstone and sapphire was very popular in Retro jewelry, probably because the color of sapphires brings out the blue undertones of moonstone. The quality of the stones is very fine. The sapphires are a bright cornflower blue, and the moonstone has very good adularescence. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 13.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, .88 carat; sapphire, .43 carat.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.

An elegant 14K rose and yellow gold bow brooch featuring a “knot” invisibly-set calibre-cut green tourmalines. The brooch is also accented with a pair of pearls set in white gold. The tourmalines have very fine bright coloring. The golden bow is worked in both a polished surface and a micro-beaded finish. The latter is a technically difficult texture to achieve and shows the hand of a master jeweler. The back of the pin is marked “RMU” and “585” for 14K gold. The back retains the original trombone clasp.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat.

A Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising hinged links set with amethysts alternating with diamond-set links. The oval mixed-cut amethysts have medium-dark, vivid reddish-purple color and are well-matched. The small old European and brilliant cut round diamonds add a restrained bit of sparkle. The amethysts are set in a way that makes them appear the float in the larger gold links, creating a sense of lightness in the bracelet. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/4” long, 3/8” wide. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; amethyst, 14.0 cts.

A 14K gold and natural ruby Retro figural brooch worked in fashioned as a stem of cherries. The fruit are fully three-dimensional and set with round unheated natural rubies. The design is finished with a gnarly branch and a pair of gold leaves. The rubies have fine clarity and intense color, without the pinkish cast frequently seen in rubies in Retro pieces. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3-3/16” x 1-7/8”
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 4.2 carats
• Weight: 28.0 grams

A very pretty pierced wedding band depicting rose gold Tudor roses alternating with yellow gold clusters of cherries. Each rose is centered with a synthetic ruby. Rubies from the Retro period are almost always synthetics because the mining of natural rubies was not possible during World War II. The design is very crisp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/32" wide
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .28 carat

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring in the Retro Moderne style set with an emerald cut synthetic pink sapphire enclosed at either end with a pair of square cut synthetic rubies and a natural round brilliant cut diamond. The stones are set in an ornate scrolling mount. The colorful design, with its strong contrasts, makes for a very attractive, fun ring. Synthetic rubies and sapphires were frequently used during the Retro period, even by the most exclusive jewelers, because many stones were unavailable to World War II. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent; the ring has been sized up. Dimensions: crown, 20mm x 10mm; back of shank, 5mm. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.2 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 ct; synthetic ruby, .66 ct; synthetic pink sapphire, 6.18 cts.

A superb 6.42 carat natural star ruby set into a late Retro 18K yellow and white gold mounting. The ruby is color-graded as medium-dark, moderately strong purple-red (R/P 6/4). The ruby has fine clarity, without eye-visible inclusions. The cut has excellent symmetry and a high dome, resulting in a well-centered bright star with straight, evenly spaced, long rays. The ruby is set in a very attractive 18K yellow gold setting with geometric white gold accents. The interior of the shank is stamped "18K 750".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 11. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at crown, tapering to 3/8" at back of shank. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.42 carats (by measurement).

A striking Retro floral pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the Retro period, in the late 1930s. The pendant was originally a brooch. The pin has been removed and a 14K gold bail added. The clasp is hinged, so that the pendant can be worn from a thick gold chain or a strand of pearls. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1938
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions (excluding bail): 1-5/8 x 1-15/16 in (41 x 50 mm)
• Weight: 14.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 carat ruby, .60 carat; amethyst, 2.40 carats

An elegant pair of Retro 18K yellow gold earrings shaped as bows. Each of the dangling ribbons suspends an old European cut diamond. The diamonds are graded J color and I1 clarity. These earrings would look just as good with jeans as they would a cocktail dress. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1" x 9/16"
• Weight: 7.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .4 carat

A chic pair of 18K rose gold earclips in bow form, each suspending a pair of tubular chains terminating in platinum-set diamonds. The bows are pave-set with small single-cut diamonds (J/K; SI2) and are accented with arches of round brilliant diamonds (I/J; SI2). The larger diamonds (I; SI1) at the ends of the chains dangle freely for added sparkle. The uneven lengths of the chains complements the asymmetric design of the bows. The backs retain the original clips and posts have been added for pierced ears. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4 x 1-13/16 inches. Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.68 carats.

A lovely stylized flower basket pendant featuring flowers set with diamond, emerald and sapphire centers. The surrounding foliage is worked in a mix of glossy and stippled finishes to add depth and detail. The gemstones are of very good quality, with vivid color saturation and good clarity. The back of the pendant has a fixed bail and a pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. It is stamped with French marks for 18K gold.

Ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-7/16". Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .02 ct; emerald, .07 ct; sapphire, .10 ct.

NOTE: The listed price includes the 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos, but we offer the option to purchase the piece without the chain.

A substantial Retro 18K rose gold bow pin set with diamonds and natural rubies. The center knot features an old mine cut diamond flanked by small rose-cut diamonds set in white gold that extend out across the loops of the bow. Two rows of natural rubies accent the design. The rubies have fine red coloring without the hint of purple often seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940.
• Dimensions: 2 3/8" x 1 1/2".
• Weight: 17.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 carat; ruby, 1.09 carats.
• Condition: excellent, all original.

A stunning Retro 18K yellow gold strap bracelet of flat hexagonal links in the Van Cleef & Arpels style. The bracelet is engraved at regular intervals with highly-detailed honeybees, their bodies represented by elongated cabochons of hessonite garnet. The use of hessonite garnet instead of the more common similarly-colored gemstones such as citrine is an inspired choice. The interior of hessonite has a wavy, “heatwave” appearance that gives the stone visible texture. It is this texture that so successfully mimics the striations on the body of a honeyee. The engraved legs and wings are beautifully executed. Van Cleef & Arpels created the strap bracelet of interlocking hexagonal plates (the “Ludo Hexagone”) in 1935 and it quickly became a favorite motif of luxury jewelers worldwide. They are occasionally set with gemstones, but this exampled with engraved bees is a first! The clasp is marked with illegible hallmarks. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 23/32 in. wide; 7-1/2 in. length. Weight: 61.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.3 cts.

An outstanding Retro 18K gold mesh buckle bracelet generously set with diamonds and rubies. The bracelet is constructed with alternating bands of rose and yellow gold, creating a subtle striped pattern. The buckle is topped with platinum and is set with old European cut diamonds around the frame and calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) on the prong. The tip of the bracelet strap is channel-set with synthetic rubies. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The mesh has a series of six small "belt holes" that allow the bracelet to be sized appropriately in 1/4-inch increments anywhere from 6 to 7 1/4 inches. The buckle is further secured with a safety catch. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
• DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
• WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
• CONDITION excellent

One of the nicest Retro buckle bracelets we’ve seen, this 18K gold and platinum example comprises a strap of honeycomb-shaped links set off with a large buckle pave-set with rose cut and single cut diamonds in platinum. The buckle’s tongue, frame and loop are set with calibre cut synthetic rubies. This bracelet has a particularly sculptural appearance. Rubies from the Retro period are nearly always synthetics because the usual shipping lanes from the gem mines of southeast Asia were cut off because of World War II. The bracelet bears French marks for 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions 7” circumference; strap, 1” wide; buckle, 1-1/2” wide
• Weight: 90.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 4.5 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat