Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1000)

A very nice late Victorian hinged bangle bracelet worked in a pierced scrolling design. The front features a row of three square cabochon rhodolite garnets set diagonally. The rhodolites have a lovely purplish hue that distinguishes them from their more common all reddish-brown garnet cousins. The bangle is fairly wide, but the piercing gives it an elegant lightness. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-1/4”
• Approximate Total Rhodolite Garnet Weight: 3.3 carats
• Weight: 23.8 grams

An elegant 14K yellow gold Victorian bracelet in a twisted braid design. Interestingly, the bracelet tapers toward either end, leaving the middle heftier. This subtle detail gives the bracelet great elegance. The bracelet could be used to suspend up to 18 charms by passing thin jump rings through the center of each twist. That said, it’s really rather attractive all on its own. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-7/8” long; 3/8” wide at center
• Weight: 15.7 grams

A late Victorian pendant (also has a brooch fitting) in the Arts & Crafts style featuring an Australian semi-black boulder opal of fine quality. The gemstone has large strong flashes of green and blue, moderated with some violet and just a hint of orange-red. The medium-dark body color creates an excellent contrast to the spectral colors, and the play-of-color shows equally in all directions. The boulder opal is cabochon cut and incorporates areas of the sandstone matrix (the host rock) on both the front and back sides (25% on the front and 60% on the back). Australian opals were a relatively recent discovery at the time Arts & Crafts jewelry became popular and the matrix appearance of some boulder opals was especially suitable to the style. The brooch retains the original extended pinstem and a movable bale that allows the piece to be worn as either a brooch or pendant. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

NOTE: This piece could easily be converted to a very striking ring.

Origin: England, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, no cracking or crazing, there is natural pitting to the surface characteristic to the type of gemstone. Size: 1” x 13/16”. Opal Size: 24 x 19 x 7 mm. Approximate Opal Weight: 18.38 carats.

Victorian 15K gold garnet lover's knot hair locket. The locket features an unusually bright large garnet cabochon surrounded by a gold frame in a rope twist motif tied with a lover's knot to form the bail. The reverse features a small rock-crystal compartment containing woven hair. Hair lockets could either be love tokens or mourning jewelry or sentimental jewelry. The lover's knot does little to clarify which is the case for this particular piece, though the absence of an engraved date on the reverse suggests that it might have been a love token. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• England, circa 1835.
• 1" x 5/8"
• Weight: 6.9 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.33 carat

A very nice Victorian 15K yellow gold ring featuring three beautifully colored spessartite garnets separated by rows of seed pearls. These garnets are not the typical murky reddish stones, but brighter orangey-red with nice fire. The gold surfaces are elegantly engraved in a floral motif that goes all the way around the shank. The ring was expertly sized at some point, keeping the hallmarks intact, and with matching engraving. Fully hallmarked for Birmingham, 1868.

Origin: England, 1868. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown 5/16” wide, tapering to 3/32” at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Weight: 2.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.6 cts.

A wonderful and extremely rare Victorian 15K rose gold brooch set with Scottish agate. The brooch is in the form of the 19th century Prince of Wales’ crown enclosing the traditional feathers in fleur-de-lys arrangement, over a banner with the legend “Ich Dien”. The feathers are set with jasper and bloodstone. The engraved decoration of the gold is first-rate. The back bears a registry mark, dating the brooch to 1891. In 1891, Queen Victoria’s eldest son, the future Edward VII, celebrated the fiftieth anniversary of his investitute as Prince of Wales. Due to his mother’s longevity, however, Edward was the first Prince of Wales to reach that mark. Agate jewelry set in gold is quite uncommon, and this is the only example we’ve found of this particular design. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, 1891. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A large 15K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an applied floral motif. The flower’s petals are set with Persian turquoise cabochons while the leaves are set with seed pearls. The pearls and turquoise are of good quality, with bright coloring that enhances the dramatic appeal of this large locket. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, interior frame intact. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 18.0 gr.

A wonderful Victorian 18K gold acrostic gemstone brooch the shape of an artist's palette. The bright dabs of paint are indicated by a ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond, the first letters of which spell out the sentiment "Regard". The gems are The design of the pin also includes paint brushes, a drafting instrument, and a hand rest, all tied together with a rag. The gold surfaces are enhanced with a softly bloomed "Russian finish" that was popular in the last decades of the 19th century. Details such as the bindings on the brushes, the lead in the drafting pencil and the pad of the hand rest are detailed in platinum. The gemstones are of fine quality, with bright color. This piece has great wit and the workmanship and detailing are superb. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Acrostic jewelry first became popular in early 19th century France and remained popular for decades. Gemstones were used to spell sentiments such as "regard", names, important dates, etc. Rings are, by far, the most common pieces of acrostic jewelry. Brooches are quite uncommon.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1895. Weight: 8.8 grams. Size: 2-5/8" x 3/4".

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

A very good Victorian 18K gold watch fob worked with yellow, green and rose gold in an ornate rose pattern and mounted with an oval faceted citrine. The blossoms and foliage completely encircle the domed mounting decorated with stippled engraving. The fob hangs from an ornate foliate scroll. The gemstone in a fob such as this would often have been engraved with a monogram for use as a letter seal, but this citrine was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4" x 5/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 8.0 cts.

A beautiful French silver-topped 18K yellow gold floral pin from the era of Emperor Napoleon III. The pin is designed as a spray of three flower buds, each just about to open into a different color. The flowers are bead-set with rose cut diamonds, and the colors are represented by rows of cushion and round cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Each bud is centered by a larger rectangular cushion cut diamond set in prongs. A pair of diamond-set leaves and a small diamond-set bud appear below. The bottom of the sprig is also bead-set with diamonds. The top surfaces of the gold are covered in silver to heighten the appeal of the diamonds, in keeping with the mid-19th century practice. Realistic floral spray jewelry became very popular because of the extraordinary pieces commissioned by the Empress Eugenie from Bapst. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem (stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold).

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/4” x 1-3/16”. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .981 carat; sapphire, .126 carat; ruby, .147 carat; emerald, .085 carat.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold earrings fashioned as lover’s knots, with neither beginning nor end. The gold surfaces are decorated with an ornate foliate pattern, enhanced with flush-mounted antique cushion-cut diamonds, sapphires and rubies. The gemstones are of fine quality, with deeply saturated color and eye-clean clarity. The use of red, white and blue stones was particularly popular around the time of the American Centennial celebration in 1876. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1876
• Condition: excellent; replaced wires
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” from top of wire
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .52 carat; ruby, .23 carat; sapphire, .23 carat
• Weight: 8.7 grams

The knot motif in Victorian jewelry signifies the unending bonds of love, so there could be no more fitting design for this exquisitely-made 18K yellow gold hair locket/brooch. The gold surface is ornately chased to suggest the texture of rope. A large cabochon amethyst enhanced with a star-set pearl centers the jewel. The brooch is finished with a pair of foxtail tassels. The back of the brooch has a glass-covered compartment with its original hair memorial. The brooch could easily be converted for wear as a pendant with the addition of two bails at the top. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Presented in the original fitted case.

• Origin:probably England, ca 1840.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/2 x 2-3/4".
• Weight: 17.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 13.34 carats.

A wonderful Victorian angel skin cameo depicting a 17th century gentlemen set in 18K gold. Male cameos are rather unusual and typically depict deities from the Greco-Roman pantheon or historical figures. This example appears very similar to the Van Dyck portraits of King Charles II. The details of the lace collar, heavy neck chain, ruffled shirt, beard and hair are very finely worked. The cameo is deeply carved, with the white figure standing out beautifully from the soft pink background. The setting is simple, featuring only a simple line of wire-twist decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Probably American, circa 1850
• Excellent condition; no cracking to coral; replaced clasp
• 2-1/32" x 1-13/16"
• 26.8 grams

A gorgeous early Victorian demi-parure consisting of a brooch and pair of earrings. Concave round white chalcedony discs are encircled in 18K yellow gold settings accented with black enamel. The center of each chalcedony disc is set with a delicately carved coral flower reminiscent of a pansy, which is, in turn, set with a natural half-pearl in a star-shaped gold mounting. The strong color contrast is very attractive. The earrings, especially, show the translucent quality of the chalcedony to great effect. The brooch retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp, and the earrings retain their original wires and c-clasps. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Ca. 1840. Condition: excellent, all original, no damage. Size: brooch, 1-5/16” diameter; earrings, 13/16” diameter, 1-3/8” long to top of earwire.

An important 19th century brooch of carved coral lilies nestled among 18K yellow gold chrysanthemum leaves set with old mine cut diamonds. The lily blossoms are fully three dimensional and are carved from the finest Mediterranean red coral, most likely harvested from the Italian coast near Naples. The heavily detailed gold leaves have a strong sculptural quality with undulating movement. Every surface is set with old mine cut diamonds of exceptional quality, averaging I/J color and SI clarity. Diamonds, collet-set and suspended from knife-edge mountings, also form the flowers' anthers. Diamonds are also set into portions of the stem that can't be seen from the front. Exposed areas of gold are delicately hand-engraved. The back of the brooch retains its original extended pinstem c-clasp. There is also a threaded aperture that was probably originally used to attach the brooch to a comb so it could be worn as a hair ornament. Tested and guaranteed at least 18K (it appears to be a little higher, perhaps 19-20K).

Origin: probably France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; one gold stem appears to have an old repair; no breaks in coral; no replacements. Dimensions: 3" x 3-5/8" x 1-1/8". Weight: 54.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 10.0 carats.

A nice Victorian 18K gold locket, the front cover featuring a lioness shown in profile. She is enhanced with a bright emerald eye and grasps an old mine cut diamond in her mouth. The back is engraved with a period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on the lion; two pinpoint dings on the back cover
• Weight: 8.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A fine 18K yellow gold locket, the front cover chased with an ornate scrolling pattern centering a large fleur-de-lis, itself set with an old European diamond. The diamond is well-cut and is graded as J color, SI1 clarity. The back cover has a period monogram "F to J". The interior retains both of the original frame inserts. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 5.1 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

A lovely late Victorian 18K yellow gold locket, the cover enhanced with repousse decoration featuring a pair of race horse heads encircled by a wreath of roses. The wreath is tied at the back with a ribbon edged in milgrained platinum and studded with four small rosecut diamonds. The detailing of the design is very nice. The back of the locket has an ornate “SC” or “CS” monogram. The interior retains its original gold frames. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-3/16” diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A wonderful pair of Victorian earrings, each in the form of two entwined snakes. One snake has a oval ruby set in the top of its head and old mine cut diamond eyes, while the other has an old mine cut diamond head and cabochon ruby eyes. The gold surfaces are realistically engraved with scales. The rubies do not show indication of heat treatment and have bright pure red coloring. The diamonds are SI1 clarity and J/K color. Entwined snakes symbolized eternal love and became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a betrothal ring in the form of snakes. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Ca. 1880, probably France. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter (excluding wires); 1-1/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 10.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .3 ct; ruby, .3 ct.

Fine Victorian 18K rose gold stick pin. The thre-dimensional pin is in the form of a horse's saddle. A bit of the blanket peeks out from underneath and is bordered in rose-cut diamonds. The pin is very nicely detailed. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: England or America, ca 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" overall length; head 5/8" x 5/8". Weight: 2.0 grams.

A Victorian 18K gold locket in the shape of an elongated heart centering an enameled plaque depicting a lovebird delivering a love letter amidst a bower of roses. The plaque is outlined with an ornate border of black champleve enamel. The gold is highlighted with lightly engraved decoration which is repeated on the back. The back cover is more ornately engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Probably English, ca. 1840
• Very good condition; a small ding on the left edge of the heart and minor pinpoints on the back cover
• 2" (excluding bail) x 1 1/8"
• 9.0 grams

A very fine and moving 18K gold and enamel locket in loving memory of Francis Mary, Viscountess Forbes who died on Christmas Day, 1877. She married the Viscount Forbes, 26 years her senior when she was just 21 years old. She was predeceased by her husband, and though she never became a Countess, their son inherited the title Earl of Granard. The locket was likely made for her granddaughter-in-law, Beatrice Mills Forbes, an American heiress who was Viscountess Forbes at the time of Francis Mary’s death. Lady Forbes led a rather fascinating life, as Queen Victoria’s confidante and one of her longest-serving Women of the Bedchamber (1837-1874). Even in her later years, she remained an Extra Woman and was called to Court for special occasions.

The front of the locket is beautifully worked with a black enameled cypher surmounted by an Earl’s coronet against a bloomed gold finish. The back is similarly decorated with an engraved cypher and coronet. The interior features an area for a portrait on one side, and a glass compartment enclosing a twisted lock of Francis Mary’s hair on the other. The frame surrounding the hair is engraved “Francis Mary Viscountess Forbes/Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth/b. 21st Oct. 1811/d. Christmas day 1877.”

• Origin: England, 1877
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, dings, etc.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (2-1/4” with bail)
• Weight: 26.2 grams.

A wonderful 18K yellow gold and Essex crystal stick pin dating from the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. The head features a reverse-carved crystal decorated with a scene of a horse and rider jumping over a stone wall in a grassy field. The coloring is very finely done in pale shades. Essex crystals—especially those with sporting themes—were very popular in England and the United States. Occasionally, they were made in France, as well. French examples can often be identified by the use of a gold background under the crystal instead of the mother-of-pearl more frequently used in the US and England. The back of the gold mounting is stamped with the “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold and also with an illegible goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no damage or wear to the crystal. Size: overall length, 2-15/16”; head, 11/16” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

An outstanding Victorian lion's claw pendant mounted in 18K yellow god in the Etruscal Revival style. The mounting is covered with twisted rope, stippling and applied bead decoration, and is finished with a slightly matte surface. The quality of workmanship suggests the workshops of Rome as a likely place of origin. Lion's and tiger's claws were often brought back as souvenirs from hunting trips to Africa and India and were transformed into jewels. This claw is quite generously sized and is in very good condition, with a sharp point and no scaling. There is the natural splitting usually found on the inside of the curved edge. Tested and guaranteed 18K. French import hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: probably Italy, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8" (excluding remnants of chain) x 1-7/8". Weight: 9.1 gr.

NOTE: We will not ship this item outside the United States.

A nice pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold earrings, open circles enclosing ball drops star-set with emerald-cut tourmalines. The circles are finished with a pierced and beaded border along the inside edges and a delicate ropetwist motif along the outside. One tourmaline is pale green and the other is bi-colored—mostly green but with some pinkish-red areas. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1870. Condition: very good, minor dings consistent with age (mostly on reverse side). Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-5/16” long (to top of wires). Weight: 4.4 grams.

A superb Victorian shell cameo depicting Jesus wearing the crown of thorns set in a simple 18K gold frame. The cameo is beautifully carved with extraordinary detailing to the hair. The shell's shape is deeply cupped and adds wonderful depth to the design. Cameos depicting Jesus are extremely rare Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• America, circa 1860.
• Excellent condition; no cracks to shell
• 1-23/32" x 1-3/8"
• 11.2 grams

A fine shakudo stickpin mounted in 18K yellow gold enhanced with a ropetwist border. The shakudo plaque represents a geisha formally dressed in a gold-flowered kimono and with an elaborate hairdo complete with ribbons and blossoms. Shakudo elements such as these were transformed by European and American jewelers after the opening of Japan to Western trade in the 1850s. The mounting is 18K (tested and guaranteed) and the pinstem is 14K (marked).

Origin: Japan & America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: head, 11/16” x 15/32”; overall length, 3”. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A handsome gentleman’s ring, the front in the form of a horseshoe encircling an onyx cameo carved to depict a steeplechase scene of a jockey and horse leaping over a fence. Interestingly, the carver chose not to polish the black onyx background, perhaps to lend a more masculine feel to the design. The shank is finished in a reeded pattern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: probably, France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" wide tapering to 3/16” at the back
• Finger Size: 10
• Weight: 6.2 grams.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings, the tops enhanced with bands of black taille d'epargne enamel and small natural pearls. The foxtail chains terminate in small balls. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn. Each is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; new 18K wires.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" long from tops of wires.
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

A nice quality and heavy 18K gold watch key enhanced with black enamel and seed pearls suspending a pair of foxtail chain tassels and a dog clip clasp. This was originally the cross bar and fob attachments for a Victorian watch chain. With the entire assembly attached to a necklace using the existing jump ring, the key and and tassels would make stunning "charms" and another charm of your choice could be attached to the dog clip. This last charm could be changed up depending on your mood! Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Dimensions: watch key, 1 1/2" long; longer tassel, 1 11/16"
• Weight: 7.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A very finely-made Victorian memorial ring worked in 18K yellow gold and plaited hair. The ring is designed as belt, ornately decorated with open navette- and trefoil-shaped reserves, each showing the loved one’s hair. The gold surfaces are nicely engraved, and the whole is finished off with an ornate buckle centered with a escutcheon engraved with the initials “MW”. In Victorian symbology, the belt represented not only eternal love, but also strength and protection. A ring such as this, tightly surrounding the finger, would be an ever-present reminder. Buckle rings, even those with hair panels, were not always for mourning, but rather sentimental pieces. Since the band is not engraved with a name or death date in the interior, it’s quite likely that this ring was intended as a romantic symbol. The interior of the band is stamped with 18K gold marks for Chester in the year 1883. Rings of this type are much more common in lower purity gold such as 9K or 12K.

• Origin: Chester, England, 1883.
• Dimensions: band, 8/32” wide; buckle, 10/32” wide.
• Finger Size: 9-1/2.
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; hair is perfect.

An amusing late Victorian brooch fashioned as two crossed golf clubs. The shafts are worked in 18K yellow gold, while the heads are made in platinum. A small pearl, representing a golf ball rests against each club. Sporting jewelry is quite desirable, and golf-related pieces are particularly rare. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp. Stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/4” x 3/8”. Weight: 2.0 grams.

An elegant large-scale 18K gold hinged bangle bracelet with repousse floral decoration by Charles Armsheimer & Son. The design is so expertly worked that the hinge is nearly invisible when the bracelet is being worn. Armsheimer’s workshop was located on Maiden Lane, the heart of New York’s jewelry industry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The tongue of the clasp is stamped “18K” and also has the maker’s mark for Charles Armsheimer & Son.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no dings or dents
• Dimensions: width, 3/8”; inner circumference 6-7/8”
• Weight: 24.1 grams

A very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold watch fob seal in the form of a seated hound dog. He (it's very obviously a male dog) is extremely well-detailed and is highlighted with a black enameled collar and cabochon ruby eyes. The carnelian seal was never engraved. This fob seal is a little larger than most and has an imposing presence. The fob is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 3/4" x 1-1/4" tall. Weight: 17.4 grams.

A beautiful late Victorian 18K yellow gold and platinum ring set with a 1/2-carat oval ruby bordered with rose cut diamonds set in platinum. The ruby is graded as slightly purplish-red color, medium-dark tone and moderately strong saturation (slpR 6/4) and shows no indicated of heat or other treatment. The carat weight of rose cut diamonds cannot be accurately determined by measurement, but they have the visual appearance of being about a half carat in total weight. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Very good condition; the back of the shank is an old sizing replacement that was obviously custom-made to match
• Dimensions: crown, 7/8” diameter
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Weight: 3.4 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .50 carat; diamond, .50 carat

A large friendship token pendant or charm featuring a hand holding a gem-set bouquet. The design is presented against a stippled background outlined with an engraved border. The bouquet is set with a cabochon ruby, an emerald cut emerald and a brilliant cut sapphire. Jewelry featuring a hand and flower motif were usually given as tokens of affection or friendship in the Victorian era. The back is stamped “18K.”

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .08 carat; emerald, .05 carat; sapphire, .05 carat.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings, the tops enhanced with applied green and rose gold flowers surrounding collet-set rubies. The foxtail chains terminate in small balls. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn, and the small rubies add a subtle shot of color. Each is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; converted to earrings with the addition of 18K wires.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" long from tops of wires.
• Weight: 7.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .10 carat.

A very fine 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a mythological basilisk (cockatrice) pierced through with a jeweled sword. This example is entirely handmade and finished with expertly chased scales and feathers. The quality of workmanship is superb. The wings are formed separately and arranged in a manner that gives the piece great dimensionality. The outer wing is set with a round ruby of very fine color and clarity and the eye is set with a tiny cabochon ruby. The hilt of sword is set with seed pearls with a natural oval pearl at the tip. The gold surfaces have a slightly matte Russian finish. The back retains the original clasp, large watch hook and pendant loop. Many would call this creature a griffin, but with its body of a serpent and with head and wings of a bird, it is more properly considered a basilisk or cockatrice. Such creatures were popular in the late Victorian era. There is a possibility that the back is marked with a script signature, but it is far too difficult to be certain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: 40 x 40 mm (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in). Weight: 13.2 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .15 ct.

Lovely French Second Empire 18K yellow gold, ruby and pearl earrings. Each earring features a surmount set with a round ruby in a buttercup mounting suspending a scrolled drop terminating in a second ruby and seed pearl drop surrounded by an engraved horseshoe. The rubies are relatively pastel, with a soft reddish-pink coloring. The earrings have lots of movement and sparkle. The original wires are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1850
• Condition: Excellent
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" long (from top of ear wire); 1/2" wide.
• Weight: 3.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat

Very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a coiled snake. The head is set with an old European cut sapphire. The engraved detailing is very nice. The snake motif in Victorian jewelry, often used to represent eternal love, became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring as her betrothal gift. Hallmarked with the French "tete de cheval" and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, circa 1850. Condition: all original, the pinstem has the usual bends that are not visible when being worn. Size: 2-1/2” overall length; snake, 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

An outstanding Victorian 18K yellow gold oval slide locket, the cover with set with an amazing sardonyx cameo depicting an early steamship also rigged with sails. The single smoke funnel, the sails’ rigging and the absence of a sidewheel suggest the locket dates to the mid-19th century. The carving is expertly worked using the alternating cream and rust colors of the sardonyx to represent every small detail. The marshy foreground is littered with barrels, crates and a large anchor. The hardstone is surrounded by a Greek key pattern carved into the gold. This pattern is repeated on the back cover surrounding an oval or engine-turned engraving. The locket opens by sliding sideways from a pivot at the top. Lockets were used, of course, to hold pictures, locks of hair or other sentimental remembrances. Most likely, a locket with this kind of decoration would have been worn by a ship captain’s wife (the only sailor’s wife likely to have enough money to purchase an expensive locket of this size and quality).

Ca. 1845. Condition: excellent, no damage to carving, 2 pinpoint dings on the back cover, original frames remaining in interior, no monogram. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Size: 1-3/16” x 1-11/16” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 15.9 grams.

Very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a coiled snake. The head is set with an old European cut green tourmaline. The engraved detailing is very nice. The snake motif in Victorian jewelry, often used to represent eternal love, became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring as her betrothal gift. Hallmarked with the French "tete de cheval" and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, circa 1850. Condition: all original, the pinstem has the usual bends that are not visible when being worn. Size: 2-15/32” overall length; snake, 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A wonderful Victorian 18K yellow gold curb link chain interrupted at regular intervals with bi-color ("watermelon") tourmaline beads. The chain is finished with a fantastic clasp in the form of a lady's hand grasping floral-engraved loop. At 39" in length, the necklace can be worn doubled or perhaps even tripled. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 39" long. Weight: 67.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 215.0 carats.

A nice 18K gold figural stick pin in the form of a bear, nicely detailed with engraved fur. The stem is spiraled, indicating an earlier date. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 5/8” x 5/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 3.5 gr.

Excellent pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold drop earrings with Mediterranean coral beads. The earrings are quite heavy and are very well constructed with closed backs that make them attractive from behind, as well. The coral has the nice, even coloring of fine Mediterranean coral from the coast of Italy. The original earwires have been replaced with screwbacks, but because of the way the earrings are constructed, there were no alterations to the earrings themselves. They could easily be re-converted to wires. The gold has a slightly rosy color that complements the coral nicely. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, circa 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 11/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A very nice Victorian 9K gold buckle ring, fully engraved with an ornate floral and foliate pattern against a stippled background. The gold has faint rose tint. The ring shows almost no wear. The width of the band and larger finger size make this ring ideal for man. The interior of the shank is fully stamped with Chester hallmarks for 1896.

Origin: England, 1896. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/16" at the buckle, tapering to 5/32" at the back. Finger Size: 9-3/4. Weight: 4.5 gr.

A fine Victorian 14K gold fob locket, the front cover worked in a deeply three dimensional design of a rose gold owl perched on a green gold branch. The eyes are set with garnet cabochons. The back cover has an engraved shield design that was never monogrammed. The hinged bail is engraved in a complimentary design. The interior of the locket retains its original frame and glass insert.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-3/8" (not including jump ring). Weight: 13.7 grams.

An unusually nice Victorian gold-filled locket in the aesthetic taste. The front features a marsh scene of reeds and flowers growing alongside the water’s edge, all worked in different shades of gold. The design is enclosed within an engraved border. The back of the locket is engraved with multiple designs akin to a crazy quilt.

• Origin: probably America, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent, no wear to gold
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 1-3/8” (excluding jump ring)

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with with oval brilliant-cut amethysts set in simple 10K yellow gold collets. The amethysts have nicely saturated, even color that would look particularly good with a white or light blue cuff. The faces are fairly large, so they are connected with a removable s-link for ease in putting them through a buttonhole. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: probably America, ca. 1870.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 11/16" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 19/32" x 7/16".
• Weight: 11.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 29.8 carats

Centered with an intensely violet amethyst, this Victorian pendant will add a pop of rich color to any wardrobe. The gold setting in a fleur-de-lis pattern is adorned with natural seed pearls that contrast beautifully with the intense color and brilliance of the large amethyst. This piece was originally a brooch, but now has new life as a wearable pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1890.
• Excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 1-1/16” (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 6.3 grams.
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 10.25 carats.

Wonderful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a flying dragon. The coiled body is covered with finely detailed scales and the wings are detailed with webbing. The dragon clasps a small prong-set single-cut diamond in its jaws. The surfaces have the soft matte bloom or “Russian finish” that was often used in the Art Nouveau period. The pinstem is illegibly hallmarked. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: head, 11/16” x 11/16”; overall length, 2-1/2” long. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A lovely 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau bracelet comprising a series of round floral plaques, each hinged separately for comfort. The center five plaques are set with a round brilliant cut ruby at the middle of each blossom. The rubies have a strong purplish-red color that contrasts nicely with the yellow gold. Each plaque is pierced around the flower petals for added delicacy. The concealed clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7-1/2” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.02 cts.

An Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold pin featuring a beautifully enameled morning glory enclosed in a gold whiplash frame. The flower petals and leaves have very fine enameling in translucent shades of rose, cream and green. The enamel has the iridescent finish more often seen in the best quality enameled pieces from Newark workshops. A small pearl peeks out the top of the morning glory. The gold frame is set with rows of rose cut diamonds. Since the morning glory opens and withers in a single day, some charts of Victorian flower language say the flower was used to represent "love in vain." The pinstem is stamped "18Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1". Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

An exceptional pair of Victorian carved ivory and 9K yellow gold earrings. The earrings are fashioned as exquisitely detailed cherubs, each suspending three elongated drops. The drops are arranged in the typical girandole style with the central piece hanging lower than the outer elements. The cherubs are fully three-dimensional and the feathered carving on the backs is as fine as that on the front. The ivory has a very nice patina. The style and exceptional quality of carving indicates the ivories were likely carved in Italy, whereas the use of 9K gold suggests they were mounted as jewelry in England. Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter can be seen wearing an ivory cherub brooch quite similar to these in one of her portraits. The girandole style emerged in French jewelry in the early 1700s and remained popular throughout the century. The ornate style returned to popularity during the Rococo Revival around 1870. The wires are stamped with French import marks for 9K. Victorian ivory earrings of this quality are quite uncommon, and we were fortunate to acquire two exceptional pairs from the same source.

Origin: Italy/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracking. Size: length from top of wire, 2-3/4”; length from top of cherub, 2-1/8”; width, 1-1/16”.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to California.

A colorful butterfly, it’s old mine cut diamond and sapphire body sporting wings studded with rubies, rose cut diamonds and emeralds, stands atop a diamond-encrusted twig in this gorgeous late Victorian jewel. Victorian butterfly jewels usually portray the insect with its wings spread in a rather rigid fashion. This pose is far more naturalistically attractive. The stones together weigh close to 3 carats, and all have excellent color. The piece appears to have been converted from a brooch into a pendant with the addition of a hidden bail at the back. Tested and guaranteed 18K. The contemporary chain is stamped for 18K.

• Origin: probably France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-1/4”; chain length, 18”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.20 cts; sapphire, .38 ct; ruby, .67 ct; emerald, .63 ct
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

A pretty Victorian stick pin, the head in the form of an enameled pansy centering a 1-point old mine-cut diamond. The petals are detailed in shades of white, lavender and black. The coloring is applied in a way that makes the petals look ruffled. In the Victorian language of flowers, the pansy represented remembrance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, there are some enamel imperfections at the edges of the petals that are original to the making. Size: head, 1/4" x 1/4"; overall length, 2-1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

Extremely fine Victorian memorial ring in 18K yellow gold, the shoulders with glossy black taille d’epargne enamel and engraved foliate decoration. A shield-shaped black and white sardonyx cartouche crowns the ring and covers a hair compartment visible through the beveled rock crystal cover on the inside of the ring. The inside of the shank is engraved “Thomas Bland 1857 Obt 23 March 68 years” and the compartment holds a woven plaque of his gray hair. The back inside of the shank is fully hallmarked for Birmingham 1856-57, with the maker’s mark “TM”. This is certainly one of the finest memorial rings we’ve seen.

Origin: England, 1857. Condition: virtually mint. Size: 8-1/4. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A pretty 18K yellow gold pendant in a shape that suggests a pair of wings, each set with rose cut diamonds. The design is completed with an additional diamond at the top in a buttercup setting. The pendant was likely fashioned from a larger piece of jewelry that was no longer fashionable. The reverse is stamped with a goldsmith’s mark and also with the Birmingham date mark for 1849. The jump ring is 14K.

• Origin: Birmingham, England, 1849
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 11/16” (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat
• Weight: 1.9 gram

A fine Victorian shell cameo pendant/pin depicting Diana, goddess of the hunt, the moon and nature (Artemis in Green mythology). The setting is beautifully worked in the Etruscan taste with delicately formed bead, wire and rosette decoration. The carving makes nice use of the shell's coloring to add details to the goddess' gown. She holds three of her attributes—a bow, a quiver of arrows and a crescent moon tiara. Diana/Artemis, being a virgin goddess, was regarded as the protector of women, especially during childbirth. The cameo is indistinctly signed by the artist. The back retains the original pinstem and pendant hook. The clasp is a slightly later replacement in 10K. The pinstem is stamped for 12K gold and the setting is tested and guaranteed 12K.

• England, circa 1865
• Excellent condition; clasp replaced; no cracks to shell
• 2-5/32" x 1-3/4"
• 14.25 grams