Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1032)

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold comet pin worked in the Etruscan Revival style. The pin is decorated with ornate granulated rosettes and ropetwist motifs surrounding a single square Persian turquoise cabochon set at the comet's nucleus. The gold surfaces are bloomed for a soft sheen. Tested and guaranteed 14K.The pin was likely produced to commemorate the appearance of Halley's Comet in 1835.

• Origin: America, ca. 1835.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" long.
• Weight: 4.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent, all original, no dings or missing decorative elements.

A nice pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold earrings, open circles enclosing ball drops star-set with emerald-cut tourmalines. The circles are finished with a pierced and beaded border along the inside edges and a delicate ropetwist motif along the outside. One tourmaline is pale green and the other is bi-colored—mostly green but with some pinkish-red areas. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1870. Condition: very good, minor dings consistent with age (mostly on reverse side). Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-5/16” long (to top of wires). Weight: 4.4 grams.

An elegant antique jewelry case covered in rich lipstick-red red velvet finished with satin trim and passementerie trim. The interior is covered in matching tufted silk. The interior of the lid is gilt-stamped “Horlogerie Bijouterie Brilloit Blaye [France].” The box was probably originally meant for a small pocket watch or a medallion. Records indicate the shop was located at 2, cours de La Fontaine as of 1889.

• Origin: France, ca. 1889.
• Condition: excellent; bright color; only the most minimal of wear at the corners.
• Dimensions: 2-1/8” x 2-1/8” x 1-3/8”.

A gorgeous early Victorian demi-parure consisting of a brooch and pair of earrings. Concave round white chalcedony discs are encircled in 18K yellow gold settings accented with black enamel. The center of each chalcedony disc is set with a delicately carved coral flower reminiscent of a pansy, which is, in turn, set with a natural half-pearl in a star-shaped gold mounting. The strong color contrast is very attractive. The earrings, especially, show the translucent quality of the chalcedony to great effect. The brooch retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp, and the earrings retain their original wires and c-clasps. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Ca. 1840. Condition: excellent, all original, no damage. Size: brooch, 1-5/16” diameter; earrings, 13/16” diameter, 1-3/8” long to top of earwire.

A 14K yellow gold gypsy ring with a hand-engraved scrolling motif to the shank on either side of a high-domed cabochon emerald. The emerald is graded as dark vivid green (G7/6) with moderate clarity and color enhancement typical of emeralds. The resulting color contrast with the gold setting is especially attractive, as is the classic tapering shape of the shank. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Dimensions: 7/16" wide, tapering to 5/32" at the back of the shank. Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: 1.03 carat.

An unusual combination of classic Victorian insect jewelry and the patriotic color combination popular around the time of the Centennial celebrations of 1876. The insect’s folded wings are set with pairs of rubies,sapphires and diamonds. The thorax is represented with a single bezel-set diamond and the eyes are small rubies. Neither the rubies nor sapphires have evidence of heat treatment. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: head, 11/16” x 11/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 1.86 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .17 ct; ruby, .09 ct; sapphire, .07 ct.

Breathtaking French 18K gold, silver, diamond and pink tourmaline brooch from the reign of the Emperor Napoleon III. The brooch is formed as a naturalistic swirl of leaves, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. The design features three large old mine-cut diamonds, each a bit larger than 1/2 carat. The center stone is prong-set while the outer stones are collet-set. The old European cut diamonds are scattered along an unusual knife-edge setting at the top of the brooch. The gold setting is topped with silver in the traditional style of 19th century French jewels. The brooch suspends a collet-set oval pink tourmaline cabochon topped with a collet-set old European-cut diamond. The diamonds used in the period, as would be expected of such a significant piece. The color is a very bright white and the clarity is quite good for the period. The tourmaline is a soft pink shade with just a tinge of violet. The brooch retains the original extended pinstema and c-clasp, both of which are stamped with French 18K marks and the mark of an unidentified jeweler (AH).

Origin: Paris, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-19/32". Weight: 11.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.6 carats; tourmaline, 1.5 carats.

Extremely fine Victorian memorial ring in 18K yellow gold, the shoulders with glossy black taille d’epargne enamel and engraved foliate decoration. A shield-shaped black and white sardonyx cartouche crowns the ring and covers a hair compartment visible through the beveled rock crystal cover on the inside of the ring. The inside of the shank is engraved “Thomas Bland 1857 Obt 23 March 68 years” and the compartment holds a woven plaque of his gray hair. The back inside of the shank is fully hallmarked for Birmingham 1856-57, with the maker’s mark “TM”. This is certainly one of the finest memorial rings we’ve seen.

Origin: England, 1857. Condition: virtually mint. Size: 8-1/4. Weight: 4.5 grams.

The knot motif in Victorian jewelry signifies the unending bonds of love, so there could be no more fitting design for this exquisitely-made 18K yellow gold hair locket/brooch. The gold surface is ornately chased to suggest the texture of rope. A large cabochon amethyst enhanced with a star-set pearl centers the jewel. The brooch is finished with a pair of foxtail tassels. The back of the brooch has a glass-covered compartment with its original hair memorial. The brooch could easily be converted for wear as a pendant with the addition of two bails at the top. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Presented in the original fitted case.

• Origin:probably England, ca 1840.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/2 x 2-3/4".
• Weight: 17.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 13.34 carats.

A wonderful pair of Victorian earrings, each in the form of two entwined snakes. One snake has a oval ruby set in the top of its head and old mine cut diamond eyes, while the other has an old mine cut diamond head and cabochon ruby eyes. The gold surfaces are realistically engraved with scales. The rubies do not show indication of heat treatment and have bright pure red coloring. The diamonds are SI1 clarity and J/K color. Entwined snakes symbolized eternal love and became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a betrothal ring in the form of snakes. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Ca. 1880, probably France. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter (excluding wires); 1-1/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 10.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .3 ct; ruby, .3 ct.

A wonderful 18K yellow gold and Essex crystal stick pin dating from the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. The head features a reverse-carved crystal decorated with a scene of a horse and rider jumping over a stone wall in a grassy field. The coloring is very finely done in pale shades. Essex crystals—especially those with sporting themes—were very popular in England and the United States. Occasionally, they were made in France, as well. French examples can often be identified by the use of a gold background under the crystal instead of the mother-of-pearl more frequently used in the US and England. The back of the gold mounting is stamped with the “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold and also with an illegible goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no damage or wear to the crystal. Size: overall length, 2-15/16”; head, 11/16” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A very nice Victorian watch fob chain of woven hair accented with 14K yellow gold fittings. The weaving is very nicely done from hair in a soft chestnut color. The center of the chain features a paneled gold fitting from which is suspended a gold-mounted pendant drop with acorns and leaves. Hairwork jewelry was a cottage industry and was made both as memorial jewelry and as love tokens. Each end of the chain is finished with gold fittings, as well. A contemporary gold filled chain has been added to the back to transform the fob chain into an 18” long necklace.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 18” long (with extension); 12-1/2” long (without extension).

A spectacularly fine, museum-quality Victorian figural watch fob worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum depicting Aesop's fable "The Fox and the Grapes." The seal shows the fox's head, jaws agape, straining to reach a juicy cluster of grapes that are just barely out of reach. Every tiny detail of the fox's fur, teeth, tongue is beautifully worked, as are the leaves and distinct individual berries making up each cluster of grapes. The leather strap is enhanced with three additional grape elements.

The seal surface is worked in platinum engraved through to the underlying gold. The crest is that of the Scottish clan Irwin (variously spelled Irvine, Irving, etc.) with the first two words of the family motto, "Sub Sole Sub Umbra Virens."

The Albert swivel clasp is stamped with a French goldsmith's mark, but it's likely that fob is English and the swivel clasp is an addition from the 1920s. The metals are tested and guaranteed as 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: probably England, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, all original with the likely exception of the swivel clasp. Dimensions: fob length, 1-5/8"; overall length (including Albert clasp), 5-3/4". Weight: 48.9 gr.

A lovely Victorian starburst pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with an old mine cut diamond at the center. Stars in Victorian jewelry symbolized guidance and wisdom. Most Victorian starbursts have straight rays, but the Art Nouveau-influenced curlicue design of this example makes it especially nice. The diamond at the center has good brilliance, I/J color and VS1 clarity. The pendant retains the original brooch fitting, as well, but it is very well hidden when being worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K (the newer bail is marked 10K).

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .35 carat
• Weight: 4.3 grams

A handsome griffin with back-stretched wings, a lion’s head and a curling serpent’s tail grasps an old mine cut diamond in this 19th century French brooch and necklace slide. Interestingly, the creature’s tongue is licking the diamond. The eye is set with a small faceted ruby. The back retains the original pin stem and a hinged clasp so the griffin can be attached to a chain. The hinged clasp is marked “Déposé” meaning the griffin was a patented design. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 3/4”
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .12 carat
• Weight: 4.7 grams

A large friendship token pendant or charm featuring a hand holding a gem-set bouquet. The design is presented against a stippled background outlined with an engraved border. The bouquet is set with a cabochon ruby, an emerald cut emerald and a brilliant cut sapphire. Jewelry featuring a hand and flower motif were usually given as tokens of affection or friendship in the Victorian era. The back is stamped “18K.”

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .08 carat; emerald, .05 carat; sapphire, .05 carat.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.

A stunning Victorian butterfly brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and silver. The body comprises a cabochon garnet inset with a rose cut diamond, all set between a pair of bright green emerald eyes and a tapering tail of natural pearls The delicately pierced wings are set with 24 rose cut diamonds, two rubies, two emeralds and eight blue sapphires. The butterfly is completed with gold legs and antennae. The brooch is beautifully made. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, the original c-clasp has been replaced with a safety clasp. Dimension: 1-5/8" x 1-1/2". Weight: 14.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.79 carats.

A lovely Victorian tortoise shell pique pendant in a heart shape. The puffed surface is worked with gold and silver inlay in an ornate floral pattern within a scalloped inlaid border. The pattern of two flowers joined together by a ribbon, and of course, the overall heart shape suggest that the pendant would have been given as a love token. The tortoise has very nice markings and translucency when held to the light.

Origin: America or England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, no inlay loss, no chipping or cracking, (the line visible in the last image is a surface scratch only--not a crack). Size: 1-1/16” x 1-3/16”.

A lovely late Victorian 18K gold locket enhanced with ornate pierced arabesques and pearl-studded laurel wreaths. The pearls have particularly nice color and luster. The cover opens to reveal a glass-enclosed compartment for a portrait or other keepsake. A small piece of cloth soaked in perfume could have been added behind the pierced cover to provide a bit of relief from the smelly Parisian streets of the 1800s. The original bail is also set with seed pearls. Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent; a small ding on the back cover (more visible from the inside of the locket than the outside
• Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 2” (2-3/8” including the bail)
• Weight: 15.2 grams

A very pretty pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with pearls and seed pearls. The main bodies hang freely from the surmounts, and the bottom edges suspend free-hanging pearls, providing a lot of movement when being worn. The delicate scroll work makes a nice counterpoint to the simplicity of the pearls. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8” x 1-3/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 6.8 grams.

A superb Victorian shell cameo depicting Jesus wearing the crown of thorns set in a simple 18K gold frame. The cameo is beautifully carved with extraordinary detailing to the hair. The shell's shape is deeply cupped and adds wonderful depth to the design. Cameos depicting Jesus are extremely rare Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• America, circa 1860.
• Excellent condition; no cracks to shell
• 1-23/32" x 1-3/8"
• 11.2 grams

A nice 18K gold figural stick pin in the form of a bear, nicely detailed with engraved fur. The stem is spiraled, indicating an earlier date. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 5/8” x 5/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 3.5 gr.

An outstanding Victorian 18K yellow gold oval slide locket, the cover with set with an amazing sardonyx cameo depicting an early steamship also rigged with sails. The single smoke funnel, the sails’ rigging and the absence of a sidewheel suggest the locket dates to the mid-19th century. The carving is expertly worked using the alternating cream and rust colors of the sardonyx to represent every small detail. The marshy foreground is littered with barrels, crates and a large anchor. The hardstone is surrounded by a Greek key pattern carved into the gold. This pattern is repeated on the back cover surrounding an oval or engine-turned engraving. The locket opens by sliding sideways from a pivot at the top. Lockets were used, of course, to hold pictures, locks of hair or other sentimental remembrances. Most likely, a locket with this kind of decoration would have been worn by a ship captain’s wife (the only sailor’s wife likely to have enough money to purchase an expensive locket of this size and quality).

Ca. 1845. Condition: excellent, no damage to carving, 2 pinpoint dings on the back cover, original frames remaining in interior, no monogram. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Size: 1-3/16” x 1-11/16” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 15.9 grams.

An outstanding late Victorian tiger's claw brooch set in 18K yellow gold and accented with blue sapphires. Tiger claws became popular for use in jewelry following Queen Victoria's proclamation as Empress of India. Big-game hunters often brought back souvenirs of their travels and commissioned jewelry for their friends and family. Usually, the claws are set simply in gold or have an ornate Indian-style mounting, but the use of colored gemstones is extremely rare. The sapphires are of the finest quality, vividly saturated, medium tone, pure blue in color and VSI in clarity. The brooch retains its original extended pinstem. The pin could also be worn as a pendant with the addition of a simple folding bail. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Origin: probably American, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16"� long x 15/16" wide�. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.83 cts.

A lovely Victorian 10K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an embossed lion’s head. The lions mouth grasps an old mine cut diamond and the eyes are set with bright demantoid garnets. The small diamond is nice quality with bright color and good clarity. Demantoids were only discovered in Russian in 1868, so it was still a fairly novel gemstone when this locket was created. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original, no dings or monograms. Dimensions: 1†diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with Persian turquoise cabochons. The stones are nicely matched for color. The gold surface is stippled and engraved in a rayed pattern with a foliate border. The engraving on the back takes design elements from the front. The interior has a glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The original bail, also engraved and set with a turquoise cabochon, is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold locket of modified kite shape in the Etruscan Revival style. The gold surfaces have a matte finish and are enhanced with a variety of ropetwist and beaded decorations in a sort of laced corset design. The back of the locket conceals a glass-covered compartment for a photo or hair. The locket door has a period “VBR” monogram.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 2-1/16” long (including jump ring). Weight: 12.9 gr.

A very rare Victorian 15K rose gold brooch in the form of the Princes of Wales’ feathers set with Scottish jasper and bloodstone. The feathers are joined with a crown and a banner with the Prince’s motto “Ich Dien.” The gold surfaces are ornately engraved. The back bears a registry mark, dating the brooch to 1891, the 50th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s eldest son's investiture as Prince of Wales. Due to his mother’s extraordinarily long life, he was the first prince to mark a half-century in that position. Upon his succession, he ruled as Edward VII. Scottish agate jewelry was rarely set in gold, and this is one of the finest examples we’ve seen. The back is stamped with the registry (patent) number. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: England, 1891.
• Condition: excellent; no stone damage or wear to gold; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”.
• Weight: 6.2 grams.

A rare Victorian 14K yellow gold stick pin featuring a reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting a Chihuahua. Various dog breeds were depicted in Essex crystals, but this is the only piece we’ve seen with a dog that looks like a Chihuahua. The round setting, with its simple but finely crafted rope-twist border highlights the carved crystal. The colors are strong. The background appears to be silvered instead of the more usual mother-of-pearl. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: some oxidation to painted details. Size: head, 13/16” diameter; overall length, 2-3/4”. Weight: 6.75 grams.

An outstanding 18K gold shield-form perfume locket ("vinaigrette"), opening to reveal two compartments separated by a hinged crystal cover. The front cover is worked in an ornate pierced and engraved design in the Persian taste. The tiny pierced openings are concealed within the design and are intended to permit the escape of scent from a tiny perfume-soaked sponge that can be wedged inside the front cover. Vinaigrettes of this sort were used by ladies to ward off the unpleasant odors of the streets. The back cover is more simply decorated in a stippled pattern that vaguely suggests fleurs-de-lys. When opened, the back side can accommodate a portrait. The two halves are separated by a thick crystal cover with beveled edges set in gold. The locket hangs from a scrolled bail ornament. The gold has a slightly rosy tint. The inside edges are stamped with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: very good, sharp detail; the back cover has a few small dings visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 15/16” (40 x 23 mm)
• Weight: 21.0 grams

A wonderful Imperial Russian witch's heart brooch and pendant worked in silver-topped 14K gold and set with 78 rose cut diamonds and a heart-shaped garnet. Interestingly, the garnet is not cut in a standard heart shape, but in a slightly curved fashion that echoes the overall shape of the pin. The heart is topped with a ribbon motif. In Victorian jewelry symbolism, the witch's heart conveyed the meaning, "Bewitched by love." The brooch is Russian, but the pinstem and clasp were replaced around 1920, and at that time the brooch was then marked with a transitional Polish hallmark used 1920-21 to remark items that had been created during the time Poland was occupied by Imperial Russia. The brooch also retains the original Russian maker's mark "KK".

NOTE: The chain is shown for display purposes only.

• Russia, circa 1850
• 15/16" x 1 5/16"
• 7.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.0 carats; garnet, 2.66 carats

A chic Victorian egg pendant of black onyx accented with 14K yellow gold Gothic-style strapwork set with natural seed pearls. The pearls, though small, have particularly nice luster. The simple decoration and strong color contrast makes this a very elegant piece to be worn as a single pendant or as a group of necklace charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 15/16".

An elegant Victorian 18K gold curb link bracelet enhanced at the center with a diamond rosette. The rosette features a prong-set old European diamond of .30 carat surrounded by ten mine cut diamonds in petal shaped settings. The center diamond is graded as I color, VS2 clarity. The curb links are finished with a ribbed texture that gives them a soft shimmer. The tongue of the box clasp is marked “18Ct.”

• Origin: England, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: rosette diameter, 7/16” circumference, 6-1/8”
• Weight: 7.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .40 carat

A pretty Victorian 14K gold locket, the cover featuring a lion rampant with a shield. The edges of the locket are worked in an ornate rococo design that is mirrored on the large suspension ring. The interior retains the original glass cover and frame insert. The back is engraved with a period “WWW” monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail
• Dimensions: locket diameter 1”; overall length, 2”
• Weight: 10.7 grams

An impressive 18K yellow gold hinged bangle, the front set with a cabochon emerald surrounded by old mine cut and rose cut diamonds arranged in a floral motif. The larger diamonds are in buttercup settings that add more depth to the design. The emerald has good color with very light treatment and is probably of Brazilian origin. The back side of the bracelet is pierced to retain a feeling of lightness. The hinged opening and oval shape makes the bracelet comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: interior circumference, 6-11/16”; width, 1-3/16” at front tapering to 3/8” at back
• Weight: 30.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, 2.15 carats; diamond, 1.3 carats

A very fine Victorian Albert chain fashioned from a set of nineteen sizable natural gold nuggets (approximately 20-24K). The nuggets are connected by short sections of handmade chain worked in 14K. The chain has a t-bar enhanced with small nuggets and a short length of chain to suspend a fob. Nugget jewelry became popular during the California Gold Rush in 1849 and again during the Alaska Gold Rush in 1896. Nuggets were difficult to find and a collection this large was a significant indicator of wealth. Tested and guaranteed for gold content.

• Origin: America, 1850-1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15-1/2” long (could be extended by adding additional plain links at the clasp)
• Weight: 55.3 grams