Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1032)

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The amethyst's deep purple color beautifully contrasts with the gold, which is worked with florentined engraving typical of Marx's pieces. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Marx did not always sign his pieces; this ring was either unsigned or the signature was removed when the ring was resized at the back of the shank.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, the ring has been sized at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 1" x 9/16"; shank tapers to 3/16" at the back. Weight: 15.3 gr.

An exceptional Boucheron cocktail ring set with nine round brilliant diamonds and thirteen round emeralds. The diamonds are graded as E/VVS1 and the emeralds have intensely saturated medium-dark green color and very good clarity. The emeralds are characteristic of stones from Colombia. The glamorous marquise shape is generously sized, covering the entire first portion of the finger. The stones are clustered tightly together so almost no gold shows from the top, and layered so the crown rises more than a half-inch from the surface of the finger. The interior of the shank is signed "Boucheron Paris", "Or 750", "51469". The exterior is stamped with the French guarantee mark and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1-3/16" x 3/4". Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.75 cts; emerald, 3.75 cts. Boucheron's exceptional diamond and emerald cocktail ring set in 18K yellow gold packs a punch of color and glitter. The glamorous marquise shape covers the entire first joint of the finger with shimmering gemstones. The stones are layered tightly together so almost no gold shows through and layered so that the crown of the ring stands more than a half-inch off the finger. The nine round brilliant cut diamonds have E color and VVS1 clarity, and the twelve emeralds have intensely saturated color xcellent cut and clarity. The ring

A fabulous 14K yellow gold and platinum brooch by William Ruser commissioned to celebrate the astounding victory of the Pittsburgh Pirates over the New York Yankees in the 1960 World Series. The brooch is designed as one of Ruser's classic waif-like children, this time dressed in a pirate's costume. One eye is set with a blue sapphire and the other is covered with a platinum eyepatch highlighted with matte black enamel. A platinum earring dangles from one ear. In one hand he holds a baseball bat and in the other a World Series crown set with sapphires and a ruby. The pirate appears to be walking across a bouquet of flowers made of natural freshwater pearls. Each flower is centered with a prong-set brilliant round-cut diamond. Small gold flowers centered blue sapphires complete the bouquet. The back is engraved "Pittsburgh Pirates World Champions 1960". It is also signed by Ruser and marked appropriately for 14K gold and platinum.

Ruser was famed for his jewels featuring dogs, cherubs and children. He was favored by major Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Loretta Young. He also accepted unusual commission opportunities that allowed for creative use of his favorite design elements. This is one of the wittiest examples of Ruser's work we've seen. He used only the finest raw materials and the design is masterful. Along with a tie bar he designed for one of the stars of the Indy 500, this brooch is probably the finest example of Ruser's sports-related commissions.

Origin: America, 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" x 2". Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; sapphire, .43 carat; diamond, .15 carat.

A wonderful 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) green tourmaline by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The tourmaline has a deep green color with just a tiny hint of blue undertones, and is set in a florentined finished typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed with Burle Marx's marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba or Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi or India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jewelry of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4" long x 11/16" wide x 1/2" deep; shank tapering to 1/8". Finger Size: 5 (the signature is placed in a way that the ring can be sized up). Weight: 16.5 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 26.0 cts.

An extremely rare and very important 18K yellow gold ring set with a white pearl and a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design features a squared shank with a flat open gallery enclosing the two 7.0mm pearls. The pearls are drilled and rotate freely on their axes. The pearls are of very nice quality with superb luster and natural color. The back of the shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and the interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.

An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring set with an amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx is well-known for his free form designs, but his collaborations with his brother, the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, had a much more linear, abstract feel as in this piece. The amethyst at the center is of the very finest quality, with intensely purple color and excellent clarity. The gold is completed with the finely worked florentined finish typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1970
• Excellent condition
• 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 5-3/4
• 17.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats

An extremely fine 14K white gold and pearl brooch by Mikimoto. Even by Mikimoto’s standards, the pearls are particularly good quality, with cream body color and strong rose overtones. The pearls are also quite generously sized, ranging from 7.85mm to 8.35. The surfaces have only slight natural blemishes and offer superb, clear reflections. AA pearls of this size were only rarely used by Mikimoto in brooches, as they were more often set aside for use in strands. The back of the pin is signed with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark and is marked “WG 14K”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 14.0 grams.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stone. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 23 mm (3/4 x 29/32 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 14.1 gr.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1233381).

A classic 1960's Tiffany & Co. stylized floral brooch in 18K yellow gold set with sapphires and diamonds. The cluster of four blossoms are heavily decorated with hammered and carved details accented with clusters of round brilliant cut diamonds and blue sapphires. Though the brooch is bold, the spikiness of the design keeps the overall design from feeling too massive. The diamonds are I color, SI1 clarity and the sapphires are medium, vivid blue color. The back is marked "18K Tiffany & Co."

• Origin: America, ca 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1- 3/4"
• Weight 21.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .59 carat; diamond, .12 carat.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved bi-color watermelon tourmaline in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The colors of the tourmaline are nicely contrasting an dhighly saturated. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx's pieces. The interior of the shank is signed "Burle Marx/18K" and "Ind Bras/GB/791".

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 29 mm (11/16 x 1-1/8 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 16.1 gr.

A very rare 18K yellow gold ring set with a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design has an overall trapezoidal shape. The shank is doubled at the back and then comes together into a single head at the front, where it grasps a single black pearl. The 6mm pearl has nice lustre and even, natural coloring. The back of the shank is fully stamped with the French goldsmith's mark and "18K". The interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. The squared-off outline and simple placement of a single pearl is very typical of Dinh Van's work for Cardin, yet this is the first example we've seen of this design. One of his designs for Cardin is included in the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and is published in numerous books.

Origin: France, ca. 1966. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" wide at front, 1/4" wide at back. Weight: 5.7 grams.

An important artist-designed 18K yellow gold and emerald ring by Maison Gennari of Paris. The ring is styled in the Art Nouveau taste, with a voluptuous mermaid surrounded by waves and seaweed. She leans against a pair of cabochon emeralds, whose green color reinforces the watery feeling of the design. The ring is stamped with French 18K marks and is signed by Maison Gennari.

Francois Gennari was a jeweler who collaborated with sculptors to create one-of-a-kind jewels. The works were displayed at the Galerie Gennari at 25, rue Bonaparte in Paris. Gennari primarily used the lost-wax method, insuring that each piece is virtually unique.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: shank tapers from 9/32" to 5/8" wide. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 18.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.24 cts.

A fascinating 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The amethyst chosen for this ring has distinct color zoning that creates an interesting interplay of deep and light purple coloring. The setting is finished in the florentine style typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior is stamped "750" for 18K. The ring is unsigned, but is definitely by Burle Marx.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of Indian. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1965
• Very good condition; very light wear consistent with age to the stone visible under 10x magnification
• Crown Dimensions: 1-3/16 long; 7/8" wide; 3/4" high.
• Shank tapers to 1/4" at the back
Finger Size: 5-1/4
• Weight: 23.4 grams.

A beautiful pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings by Gucci. The earrings are designed in a sort of “knitted” ropetwist pattern, the tops sprinkled with round single cut diamonds. The stones are graded as I color and SI1 clarity. Both earrings are marked “18Ct Italy” and signed “Gucci”. The earrings retain their original posts and omega clips, and are presented in their original fitted Gucci box.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 10.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 ct.

A fine vintage Tiffany & Co stylized leaf brooch worked in 18K gold and set with sapphires and diamonds. The elegant form is created from wirework that gives the brooch a light feeling despite its generous size. Tiffany employed this gold wire construction to simulate feathers, animal fur and other natural textures. The gems are prong set above the gold background for added dimension. The diamonds are G color, VS1 clarity; the sapphires have medium-dark, strongly saturated blue violet-blue color. The back has a two-prong fur clip and is marked "Tiffany & Co".

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-3/8"
• Weight: 10.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: apphire, .56 carat; diamond, .50 carat.

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

An extraordinary modernist fringe necklace in 18K yellow gold and green tourmaline by the famed Brazilian modernist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre ("free form") gemstones in 1948, and the technique became his signature. Most often, he used colorful stones native to Brazil—tourmalines, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, etc. The tourmalines in this necklace are of the finest quality, with pure deep green coloring that contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting. Burle Marx never used pre-cast elements in his jewelry, and each piece was completely raised by hand from a gold ingot. All the plain gold links are accented with a brushed texture, and the links set with tourmalines have a contrasting florentined finish. The back of the clasp is stamped with Burle Marx's signature and 18K marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for the empresses of Japan and Iran, the queen of Denmark, and the prime minister of India, among others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Mergle Oberon.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 2-1/16" wide from the necklace line to the bottom of the central drop; overall necklace length, 16" (our jeweler can hand-make additional matching links to achieve your desired overall length.) Weight: 81.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 57.58 cts.

NOTE: We also have a matching ring acquired from the same source (Item #1350545).

A fine large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob, bracelet charm or pendant set with oval amethysts and pearls in a crown shape. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very good, even coloring in an appealing medium-violet shade. The pearls have nice luster and rosy overtones that compliment the color of the amethysts. The bail is marked for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1" x 1-1/4" (excluding bail). Weight: 18.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 20.5 cts.

An attractive vintage Venetian Etruscan Revival fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold. The charm is set along the edges with alternating round amethysts and citrines. The center of one face is set with an amethyst and the other with a citrine. Exposed gold surfaces are intricately enhanced with rosettes and twisted wire decoration. The combination of violet and golen-yellow gemstones is quite attractive. Teted and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 9.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 2.9 cts; citrine 2.9 cts.

A heavy 18K yellow gold lantern-shaped fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob is further enhanced with vermicelli stippled engraving on the upper shoulders—an unusual treatment. The sides are set with navette-shaped carnelian cabochons in scalloped collet settings. The carnelians have nice caramel coloring and good translucency. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/2” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 10.9 grams.

An unusually large 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example maintains the “crêpe de chine” textured background, but pairs it with a border of calibre cut synthetic rubies, in turn enclosed within a bright-cut gold border. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1960.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring); the size of a half-dollar.
• Weight: 9.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, 4.45 carats.

A heavy, beautifully-detailed 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a pine branch complete with needles and fully three-dimensional pinecones attributed to Laykin et Cie. The workmanship of the brooch is very fine. Each spray of needles is accented with a prong-set round brilliant diamonds of fine quality (I/VS). The back is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark. We have seen this exact brooch with a clear signature for Laykin et Cie, the leading Hollywood jeweler of the mid-20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Size: 2-5/16” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 21.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .35 carat.

A nice man's ring featuring a large cat’s eye quartz cabochon. The stone has pronounced chatoyancy (the cat’s eye effect) with excellent color contrast. The interior of the shank is stamped “10K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: cabochon, 13.7 x 11.4 mm; 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the back of the shank.
• Finger Size: 12-1/4.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 7.4 carats.

A fine and large 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, aquamarine, garnet, citrine and amethyst. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of gemstones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with an older Stern hallmark at “750” for 18K. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5 (easily enlarged). Size: 1-1/8” diameter; 5/8” high. Weight: 7.5 grams. Approxiamte Total Gemstone Weight: 8.37 cts (garnet, 2.16cts; tourmaline, 1.89cts; amethyst, 1.80cts; citrine, 1.44cts; aquamarine, 1.08cts).

An elegant 18k yellow gold ring featuring an oval brilliant cut aquamarine accented at compass points with folds of gold nestling small round brilliant diamonds. The aquamarine has medium light pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The cut is very good with excellent brilliance. The interior of the shank is stamped “18K.”

• America, circa 1960.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4 x 11/16” (20 x 17 mm).
• Weight: 6.2 grams.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 7.21 carats; diamond, .05 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A lovely and heavy vintage Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold charm in the form of a treasure chest. The surfaces are heavily decorated with beading and ropetwist tracery surrounding collet-set pearls. The chest's lid is hinged and operational. Fully hallmarked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16" x 1" x 1" (excluding bail). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A fine 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring. This classic modernist design, originally created by H Stern, features a golden dome studded with 19 variously colored gemstones including green tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, aquamarine and spessartite garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the color combinations and arrangement of the gemstones. This particular example is more pastel than most, with a preponderance of pale pink, green, blue and purple. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored stones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Size: 13/16” diameter; 9/16" high. Weight: 4.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.14 cts (amethyst, .82; aquamarine, .83; citrine, .61; green tourmaline, .71; pink tourmaline, 1.17).

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the Venetian Etruscan style. Each earring features a 1.52 amethyst cabochon surrounded by smaller cabochons. The gold surfaces are enhanced with an intricate pattern of wire- and bead-work, and the edges are finished in a zigzag pattern. The earrings are marked with Italian hallmarks. The backs have omega clips, but posts could easily be added.

• Italy, ca. 1960
• Excellent condition
• 15/16" diameter
• 13.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.0 carats

A heavy 18K yellow gold ovoid fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob features oval and round mixed-cut citrines in fluted collet settings. The stones along the sides are in a medium honey color, while the bottom stone is deep amber. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Size: 1-3/8” long. Weight: 15.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 32.2 carats.

A pair of high quality 1960s French 18K gold earrings featuring cabochons of ruby, sapphire and emerald nestled in a spiky gold design the resembles chestnuts as they burst from their shells at the peak of ripeness. The gemstones are intensely saturated in pure tones of red, blue and green. The earrings bear French hallmarks for 18K gold and have an unidentified maker's mark "Ste EUR". The earrings have clip backs, but the levers have an opening so posts could be added, if desired.

• France, circa 1960
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1" x 1 3/8"
• 19.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.52 carats; sapphire, 1.40 carats; emerald, .82 carat

A classic late 1960s 14K gold and diamond cocktail ring in a "snowflake" design. The seventeen diamonds are set in white gold to highlight their color. The diamonds are graded as J/I1. The openness of the setting gives the ring a delicate appearance. The yellow gold shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8" diameter. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 5.7 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

A nice 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The triangular charm is decorated with applied rosettes along the shoulders, and the faces and bottom are enhanced with wirework. Each side is collet-set with an oval cut almandite garnet, and the bottom features a large oval cabochon aventurine quartz. The garnets have strong red coloring, and the aventurine quartz has nice sparkle (“aventurescence”) from the green mica inclusions. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16” long. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: almandite garnet, 1.82 cts; aventurine quartz, 4.25 cts.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four oval cabochons of amazonite. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 12.75 carats.

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with oval amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice intense violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16" wide x 1-1/8” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 6.99 carats
• Weight: 8.4 grams

A striking Modernist take on a traditional 18K gold floral brooch. The stark thorn-like arrangement, enhanced with Akoya pearls, has an almost brutalist style. The gold surfaces are stippled to create a matte texture that contrasts with the polished gold of the small ribbon at the base. The pearls are nice quality with ivory body color. The brooch looks equally stylish worn as a pendant. The back is stamped "18K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1960
• DIMENSIONS 2 3/16" x 1 1/2"
• WEIGHT 10.2 grams
• CONDITION excellent

A vintage 14K white gold navette-shaped cocktail ring, set with round brilliant cut diamonds and round blue sapphires. The diamonds are I/J color and I1 clarity. The sapphires are graded as medium-dark blue color and eye-clean clarity. The inside of the shank is stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 1/2". Finger Size: 7. Weight: 5.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 cts; sapphire, 1.0 ct.

An 18K gold and amethyst Venetian Etruscan charm or pendant enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. The larger portions of the gold surface are worked in an engraved crosshatch pattern that is very unusual for Italian charms of the period. The decoration creates a soft sheen rather than a glittery surface. The amethysts are set with fleur-de-lis and claw prongs. The amethysts have deep purple coloring and are of very nice quality. The bail is marked "18K Italy."

• Origin: Italy, circa 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-1/2" (excluding jump ring) (23 x 23 x 40 mm)
• Weight: 15.9 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 9.6 carats

An excellent multigem "Sputnik" ring in the style of H. Stern. Stern, the world's largest dealer in colored gemstones, created this design in the 1950's to showcase the variety of colored stones available from its Brazilian mines. This particular ring has a very brightly colored selection of stones including dark and light green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, spessartite garnet, almandite garnet and aquamarine. The stones are collet-set above the yellow gold dome in a way that simulated the appearance of Russia's Sputnik satellite. The shank is marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.75 cts; spessartite garnet, 1.08 cts; amethyst, .91 ct; aquamarine, .70 ct; almandite garnet, .69 ct; citrine, .46 ct.

An impressively large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant in a crown shape set with large oval amethysts enhanced with smaller round amethysts. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very rich, deep violet coloring. Marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 25.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.29 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines amethysts, green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This particular example has a warm appearance, with an abundance of medium-tone gold and deep crimson colors. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 11/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.14 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. His designs changed over time and this piece is a classic example from the 1960s. The heart-shaped medallion is surrounded by a border of smaller hearts alternating with prong-set synthetic rubies. The front is signed A.A. and the pendant is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1965
• Condition: very good
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 4.7 grams

An elegant modernist long chain necklace worked in 18K yellow gold and featuring black onyx and green nephrite jade beads. The onyx beads are carved in a melon motif, while the jade beads are left smooth. The jade has even, lightly-mottled color and good translucency. At 33”, the necklace is long enough to be worn at full length or doubled. The combination of strong colors with the yellow gold is very chic. The clasp is marked by an unidentified maker “Ste F”.

Origin: France, ca. 1965-70. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: onyx beads, 11.7mm diameter; nephrite beads, 8.1mm; overall length 33-1/4”. Weight: 43.6 gr.

A particularly attractive large Italian 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Venetian Etruscan style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four large blue chalcedony oval cabochons. The use chalcedony is rather unusual in these pendant/charms and the rich blue color is especially nice against the gold. NOTE: The blue in the photos are more intense than the actual subtle violet-blue color of the stones. The gold surfaces are enhanced with applied rosettes, beading and twisted wire decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-1/2". Weight: 11.7 gr.

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm in a crown form, set with five oval brilliant cut amethysts and four pearls. The amethysts have nice intense coloring and good clarity. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with ropetwists and rosettes. Marked 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/16" x 1-3/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.83 cts.

A very fine and heavy vintage 14K yellow gold necklace by Tiffany & Co. The timeless braided design is enhanced by the gradual tapering of width from the center toward the clasp. The flat braided construction allows the necklace to life flat against the throat. This design has been reinvented several times over the years, and this piece likely dates from the 1960s. It is not currently available, but chains of similar weight are available from Tiffany in the $5,000 range. The clasp is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 16-1/4” long; 3/8” wide at center. Weight: 31.2 gr.

A fine pair of modernist 18K yellow gold earclips by Burle Marx set with intricately carved amethysts in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stones. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The backs of the earrings are signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”. The earrings have clip mechanisms, but posts could easily be added without disturbing the integrity of the earrings.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring (Item #1233380).

A fine 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with 19 variously colored gemstones including green tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, aquamarine and spessartite garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the color combinations and arrangement of the gemstones. This particular example is a little less haphazard than some and has a more symmetrical appearance (notice the alternating light and dark colored stones in the first ring out from the center stone and the placement of the citrines and orangy spessartite garnets always at an angle from each other in the outer rows). The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored stones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with a Stern mark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-1/4. Size: 7/8” diameter; 1/2" high. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.18 cts (amethyst, .59; aquamarine, 1.2; citrine, .78; green tourmaline, .68; spessartite garnet, .93).

An outstanding 14K yellow gold and pearl ring in a sophisticated modernist the design. The split shank creates a flat crown enclosing a row of three pearls, graduating from 5.3 to 6.6 mm. The quality of the pearls are easily on a par with Mikimoto. The luster is superb, the color is cream with rosé overtones, and the surfaces are smooth. Overall, the quality is estimated at AA. The quality of the mounting itself, is likewise superb. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 3/4" x 7/16". Finger Size: 4-3/4 (could easily be enlarged). Weight: 9.5 grams.

A classic pair of "leopard spot" earrings in 18K yellow gold and mother-of-pearl by Angela Cummings. The earrings are signed on the reverse "Angela Cummings/750". Cummings pioneered the art of hardstone inlay as a designer for Tiffany & Co. After leaving Tiffany, she opened a luxury boutique in her own name.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16". Weight: 10.8 gr.

Superb Mikimoto brooch in the shape of a harp. The harp’s sounding board is set with a row of ten fine AA pearls graduating from 3.3 to 5.8 millimeters, and the strings are studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The neck and column, both worked in gold, are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare, and this example is nearly certainly a custom-made piece. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. The brooch is accompanied by a March 2006 written appraisal from the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/32” x 1-5/32”. Weight: 11.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .12 carat.

Gorgeous pair of signed Mikimoto 18K yellow gold, pearl and diamond earrings. Each earring features a cluster of five 6.0—6.5 mm pearls, topped with a golden bow and sprinkled with prong-set round brilliant-cut diamonds. The pearls have white body color with strong rosé overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are free of blemishes. The pearls are extra fine AAA—in other words, the absolute finest quality available anywhere in the world. The diamonds are of equally fine quality, rated at E color, VVS clarity. The backs have posts and omega clips. Each earring is marked with Mikimoto’s shell hallmark and “750” for 18K. The earrings are presented in their original Mikimoto hinged box, along with the original Mikimoto gift box.

The earrings are accompanied by an August 2006 written appraisal for $6,500 by Bailey, Banks & Biddle’s Mikimoto specialist appraiser.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/32” x 15/16”. Weight: 16.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 carat.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, aquamarine, amethyst, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and how they are arranged relative to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Russian satellite. The earrings have omega clips without posts (posts could easily be added). The earrings were purchased in 1996 at the H. Stern boutique on Fifth Avenue, New York. They retain their original presentation and gift boxes. The earrings are tested and guaranteed 18K gold; the findings are 14K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1996. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 6.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

Elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond ring in the "Saffo" pattern from the "Greca" line by Versace. The wide gold band is solid in the back, but the front is pierced in a classic Greek key pattern. The pierced area is pavé-set with 59 round brilliant-cut diamonds (G/VVS2). Prior to his death in 1997, Gianni Versace created a limited line of fine jewelry, and this particular design appeared as rings, bracelets and earrings. The back of the band is signed "VERSACE" and the interior is marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks. The ring is accompanied with its original embossed leather presentation box and the original paperboard outer box. The original retail price of this ring was $4,050.

Origin: Italy, 1995. Condition: mint. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Size: 3/8" wide. Weight: 8.0 grams. Total Diamond Weight: .71 carat.

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design became one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable pieces. This pendant is the second largest of the four sizes available. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti “ and is fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece currently retails for $1925.

NOTE: The pendant is shown on a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 1-1/8".
• Weight: 8.4 grams.

Vintage 18K yellow gold brooch designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The “Scribble” design (sometimes called “Graffiti” or “Squiggle”) is probably the artist’s most famous creation and became one of Tiffany’s most desirable pieces. The pin was available in several sizes, this example being the second largest. The “Scribble” line is no longer in production and examples are getting difficult to find. The back is dated 1983, is marked by Tiffany & Co., and is signed Paloma Picasso. The pin is presented with its Tiffany pouch.

Origin: America, ca. 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 2-5/8”. Weight: 22.5 grams.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold and steel earrings by Fred of Paris. The original FORCE 10 line was created by French jeweler Fred Samuels in 1966 and was based on pieces of rigging found on sailboats. Since 1936, the Parisian house had been one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, the Samuels’ combination of precious metals with stainless steel was a shocking innovation. In the forty years since the collection debuted, Fred of Paris has continually tweaked the collection by adding gemstones or other decorative elements—in this case cloisonné enamel. The translucent green, red and blue flowers appearing against an opaque white background gives the earclips a casual style that meshes nicely with the gold and steel setting. They’d be perfect to wear with either jeans or business attire. The backs are fully hallmarked with the maker’s mark and the French 18K gold standard, and are signed “Fred of Paris/Force 10”.

Origin: France, ca. 1990-1998. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” long; 7/16” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams.

An extremely fine pair of 18K yellow gold half-hoop earrings channel-set with princess cut diamonds and square cut blue sapphires. Like all of Wayne’s jewelry, the gemstones are of the very top quality. The diamonds are F color and VVS2 clarity. The sapphires are extra-fine quality, with strongly saturated pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The earrings have the original posts with omega backs. Each earring is marked with the model number “4”, the serial number “188156” and “750”. Each is also has Wayne’s signature.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” wide; 3/4” long. Weight: 11.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .8 ct; sapphire, 1.54 cts.

Handsome 14K yellow gold and sterling silver brooch signed by David Yurman. The center hexagon is set with a hematite cabochon above a collet-set round brilliant-cut pink sapphire, and is flanked with by rope-twist extensions highlighted with 14K gold banding. The back is signed “D. Yurman 14K Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3-5/16” x 1”. Weight: 16.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: hematite, 13.36 carats; pink sapphire, .2 carat.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with lapis lazuli inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was a lead designer at Tiffany & Co. She began working at Tiffany in 1967, but was not allowed to sign her own designs until 1974. These earrings are definitely her design, but are unsigned, indicating that they date from the period 1967-74. The earrings are marked “T&Co 18K”.

Origin: America, 1967-74. Size: 7/8” x 3/4". Weight: 15.6 grams.

A stunning Tiffany & Co. ring by Jean Schlumberger, one of the great jewelry designers of the 20th century. He was Tiffany’s lead designer in the 1960s and was charged with creating nearly all of the company’s most exclusive pieces. His designs typically relied on naturalistic motifs. Here, two leaves are worked in platinum and studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stems of the leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and meld into the double shank that continues the organic motif. The diamonds are of very fine quality, VS clarity, G color. Schlumberger created several pieces using this motif, including the “Three Leaves Earrings” (currently available from Tiffany at $13,500), the “Five Leaves Brooch” ($16,500), the “Three Leaves Sapphire Earclips” ($62,000). The “Two Leaves Ring” currently retails for $4,400.

Origin: America. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Size: 5/8” wide. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .51 carat.