Catalog (2449)

An exquisite mid-century modern 18K gold and diamond necklace by André Vassort for the Parisian jeweler O. J. Perrin. The necklace comprises 47 butterfly-shaped graduated links, each separately hinged so they lie perfectly flat around the neck. The links are worked in the heavily textured style favored by Vassort. The center 21 links are each studded with a diamond so delicately set that it appears to float over its link. The diamonds are graded as E color and VVS1 clarity. The clasp is stamped with Vassort’s master’s mark and with French 18K gold marks. The necklace is presented in its original dark blue suede and moiré silk fitted box marked by the luxury jewelry house O. J. Perrin. Aside from Perrin, Vassort also created jewels for Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, Cartier, and Boucheron. He also designed privately for Hollywood celebrities. In 1969, Van Cleef asked him to design and create the coronation crown for Empress Farah of Iran.

• Origin: France, ca 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 17-1/2” long; 5/8” wide tapering to 3/8” at back
• Weight: 103.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.75 carats

A stunning pair of lage Georgian or early Victorian transitional earrings worked in 18K gold and silver. The earrings, each in form of a convolvulus (morning glory) blossom feature a variety of antique cut diamonds, mostly cushion and mine cuts. The smallest stones are rose cuts. The diamonds are of excellent quality, mostly eye clean and with superb, warm sparkle as the earrings dangle freely. The expert craftsmanship that allowed the diamonds to be set very close together with little metal showing gives the earrings a dramatic appearance when being worn. Most of the diamonds are set “a jour” (open to the light at the back), but the largest center diamonds in the rosettes at the top of each earring are set in cut-down mountings which suggests the earrings were made in the transitional period between the Georgian and Victorian eras. The backs of the rosettes have a layer of 18K gold so the silver wouldn't tarnish the wearer's earlobes. The wires are 18K gold and are probably replacements of the originals.

• Origin: likely English or possibly French, ca 1830-40
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 11/16”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 6.16 carats
• Weight: 8.8 grams

A delightful second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin featuring a mermaid. The overall design is in traditional Burgundian style, with “cupules,” and “perles” for viewing the color and clarity of either red or white wines, but this example is set apart because of the seaweed-surrounded mermaid set into the bottom. She has a distinctly “naughty mermaid” appearance typical of 1950s/60s Playboy illustrations. The thumb ring is worked in a rope motif. Both the thumbpiece and the bowl are stamped with French silver marks and the master silversmith’s mark for Ste Arcaud. The tastevin is presented in its original box from the Rolta boutiqueon rue de l’Opéra in Paris.

• Origin: France, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3-5/16” x 4-1/4” x 1”
• Weight: 86.0 grams

An elegant Edwardian heart-shaped locket worked in 18K yellow gold. The front cover is enhanced with a small rose cut diamond and three small no-heat rubies set in a stylized floral pattern with engraved stems. The decoration is reminiscent of Imperial Russian jewels of the era, but the locket bears French gold hallmarks and is marked “Déposé” indicating that the design had a copyright of sorts. The edges of both the front a back covers are finished with banded reeding décor. The chain is old, possibly original, but is gold-filled.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, a couple of tiny pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16” excluding jump ring; chain, 18” long
• Weight: 2.1 grams (without chain)

An interesting late Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet worked as a series of sextupled cable links that are slightly flattened so they splay out sideways to create a wide bracelet with a sort of optical illusion effect. The clasp is decorated so the bracelet appears seamless when being worn. The open link design makes this a perfect bracelet to wear on its own or with chunky, heavy charms. The interior of the clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7” long
• Weight: 38.2 grams

An elegant Victorian 18K gold pendant featuring an onyx plaque centered with a seed pearl. The gold setting is ornately worked in a rope twist motif and with bright-cut engraving. Three tiny seed pearls complete the design. The pendant is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-7/32” x 5/8”
• Weight: 3.0 grams

A wonderful and very rare Baccarat cut crystal perfume bottle in a simple panel cut enhanced with blue opaline “gems”. The lip of the bottle is cut in a deep petal shape. The stopper matches the décor of the bottle. Though known as “opaline” now, this type of glass was called “agate glass” when it was created at Baccarat in 1842. This pale blue color was called “bleu celeste” (“heavenly blue”). A very similar bottle has a full-page illustration in Jean-Louis Curtis’ landmark book “Baccarat.”

• Origin: France, ca 1845
• Condition: excellent, some extremely tiny abrasions to the facet edges of the gems on the stopper
• Dimensions: 4-1/8” x 4-1/8” x 6-1/4”

A vintage sterling silver vermouth dispenser in the form of a syringe by Gorham. These were called “Martini Spikes” when sold by Gorham in the 1960s. The functioning plunger allows vermouth to be drawn up into the syringe and then dispensed in precisely-calibrated doses for your medical cocktails. The syringe originally cost $10. The syringe is presented in its original fitted box and is accompalied by the illustrated instruction card.

• Origin: Amerca, ca 1967-70
• Condition: excellent, no monograms or dings; box in mint condition
• Dimensions: 6-1/4” long.

A nice Edwardian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on each of the ornate links. The chain is finished at one end with a dog clip and at the other with a large niello bolt.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 10”
• Weight: 23.8 grams

A nice Edwardian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on alternate links between smaller gilt links. The chain is finished with a niello swivel dog clip at one end and a large bolt with repousse and gilt decoration on the other. The chain is stamped with Swiss 800 silver marks used 1882-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 11-1/4”
• Weight: 16.0 grams

A beautiful set of six sterling pastry or cake forks designed by Bernard Cuzner for Liberty & Co. in 1923. The handles are elegantly enhanced with blue and green champleve enamel in a sort of peacock feather design. Cuzner was Liberty’s most influential silver designer in the 1920s. This set is fully hallmarked by Liberty and has the date mark for 1928. They are presented in their original silk-lined fitted case.

• Origin: England, 1928
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, very minor wear to the case
• Dimensions: 5-1/8” long
• Weight: 86.3 grams

An elegant Edwardian bracelet worked in fancy curly-cued gold links, each with a slash of platinum-set rose cut diamonds for a little added sparkle. A collet-set ruby appears between each of the links. The rubies have nice color and are unheated. The links are formed loosely, so the bracelet has nice movement when being worn. The tongue of the concealed clasp is stamped with French 18K gold and platinum hallmarks and with an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 6-3/4”; width, 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.2 carats; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 14.5 grams

A rare large silver plate double jigger by Napier. The larger end is marked of in one-ounce increments up to four ounces and the smaller end at 1-1/2 and 2-1/2 ounces. Both ends have a small pour lips to prevent dripping. The interior is marked “Napier Pat. Pend.” Napier began producing barware after being inspired by the 1925 World’s Fair in Paris that showcased Art Deco luxury and continued until the U.S.’s entry into World War II.

• Origin: America, 1925-41
• Condition: excellent, minor wear to interior, no plating wear to exterior
• Dimensions: 4-1/4” tall, 2-9/16” wide

A terrific first standard (950/1000 pure) silver tastevin by the acclaimed Dijon silversmith Marc Parrod. Though working in the very early 20th century, Parrod was fond of creating tastevins in fantasy styles of the 18th and early 19th centuries. Among his catalog of motifs were sides with repoussé decoration of grape clusters and leaves, bottoms inset with royal coins or medallions, double snake handles representing temptation in the Garden of Eden, and handles with engraved scenes or witty sayings. He must have had some /extra time when he made this tastevin, because it includes all these except the snake handle. In its place is a “tab handle” engraved with a cluster of grapes surrounded by a heart below the saying “A bon vin bonne humeur” (“To good wine and a good mood”). The bottom features a medallion (“jeton”) with the image of Louis XVI surrounded by a legend translated as “the most Christian King Louis XVI 1785”. The reverse of the medallion shows the coat of arms of the Duchy of Burgundy and the inscription “Comitia Burgundiae.” Silver jetons were struck by various civic governments (in this case, the Three Estates of Burgundy) or by the Crown itself to honor important people, significant historic occasions, or personal visits by the King. The rim is engraved with the name of the tastevin’s original owner Paulin from the wine village of Corton. The handle is stamped with Parrod’s mark and first-standard silver marks.

• Origin: Dijon, ca. 1903-1944 (most likely toward the earlier part of this period)
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 2-7/8” x 3-13/16”
• Weight: 67.2 grams

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old mine cut diamond. The diamond has bright (G-ish) color and is VVS2 clarity. The griffin is depicted against a background of swirling foliage. The back is engraved to match the texture of the front. The griffin has two loops on the backs of the wingtips so it can be worn as a pendant. It originally also had a removable pin stem which is no longer present. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and a partial goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, removable brooch mechanism absent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A really inventive Victorian 14K gold book chain necklace, each link in the form of a heart. The links are further enhanced with heart appliques engraved in a floral pattern. The necklace is completed with a large reeded bolt clasp that could easily hold multiple pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent
Dimensions: 18-3/4” long
• Weight: 32.1 grams

An elegant cranberry-cut-to-clear perfume bottle, likely by Cristallerie de Saint Louis or Cristalleries de Nancy. The bottle is worked in a classic pattern of pillars finished with step cutting at the shoulders and panels cuts on the neck. The base is also cut-to-clear in a star pattern. The hollow-blown stopper is cut in a matching pattern.

• Origin: France, ca 1920
• Condition: excellent, no chips
• Dimensions: 2-9/16” x 2-9/16” x 6-1/2”
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A delightful mid-century modern jigger by Reed & Barton. The figurine of the town drunk has a 1920’s feel, but the interior green enamel identifies the jigger as part of Reed & Barton’s “Color-Clad” line designed by John Prip and introduced in 1961. The bottom is marked “Reed & Barton 2oz” and has the pattern number “260.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1961
• Condition: excellent, no plating wear or enamel damage
• Dimensions: 2-7/16” tall