Catalog (2449)

A lovely and very unusual late Victorian circle brooch in 14K yellow gold, enhanced with pearl- and emerald-set flowers and enameled leaves. Each flower is represented by a cluster of six seed pearls centering a small old mind cut emerald. The flowers are set between pairs of leaves delicately enameled in translucent shades of green and yellow. One side of the pin is decorated only with a line of pearls, a nice assymetrical touch. The back retains the original extended pinstem, c-clasp and watch hook. Marked “14”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold stickpin featuring an reverse-carved Essex crystal head depicting the blue and white striped burgee of the Larchmont Yacht Club. The crystal is well-carved, with bright coloring and no signs of water damage or separation. The crystal is finished with a mother-of-pearl background. The Larchmont Yacht Club dates from 1880 and remains one of America’s most exclusive yachting clubs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 1/2" diameter; overall length, 2-21/32”. Weight: 2.0 grams.

A lovely cut glass perfume bottle cut from cranberry to clear. The design incorporates wide miters separated by combinations of fans, strawberry diamond and star motifs. The shoulders of the bottle are panel cut, and the base is finished with a 24-point star. The lapidary-cut stopper is original to the bottle and is engraved with the same number as the inside of the bottle's neck.

Origin: Europe, possibly Val St. Lambert, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Size: 5-3/4" tall.

A lovely cut glass perfume bottle cut from cranberry to clear. The design is a simple, classic combination of crosshatched diamonds and fans. The shoulders of the bottle are panel cut, and the base is finished with a 24-point star. The lapidary-cut stopper is original to the bottle and is engraved with the same number as the inside of the bottle's neck. Origin: Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Size: 5-3/4" tall.

A nice stoneware ewer in an unusual form by Doulton Lambeth. The bulbous body is decorated with raised flowers and foliage against a cobalt blue ground, while the foot and long tapering neck are finished in a simple pattern of incised rings highlighted with chocolate brown borders. The inside of the foot is stamped with the mark used 1891-1902 and also with the artist's mark which appears to be a conjoined "JH", "HL" or possibly just an ornate "H". There is also an assistant's mark, "b".

Origin: England, ca. 1895. Condition: no chips or cracks. Size: 11-5/8" tall.

A lovely sterling silver fancy serving fork in an unnamed Art Nouveau pattern by the Baird-North Co. The handle is beautifully decorated with a thorny vine of wild roses. The back is decorated in a simpler design of roses. The splayed tines are ornately pierced. A fork of this shape would probably have been used to serve bacon, but it might also be useful for cold meats. The reverse is marked “Sterling/Pat. 1903”. There is no maker’s mark (maker’s marks were not legally required until 1906), but we’ve had pieces in this pattern that have bear Baird-North’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1903-1906. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no monograms. Size: 8” long. Weight: 35.5 grams.

An exceptionally fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a pansy blossom highlighted with enamel. The enamel decoration is absolutely spectacular. Shades of translucent pink, chartreuse and maroon blend to create a very realistic, soft appearance. The flower is centered with an old European cut diamond of very fine quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp and eyelet for a watch hanger. Though unsigned, the brooch was made by Whiteside & Blank, one of the finest Newark makers. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A very pretty Art Nouveau honeymoon pin worked in 10K yellow gold enhanced with enamel and seed pearls. The iris blossom is beautifully decorated in translucent shades of purple and greenish-yellow enamel and is centered by a small seed pearl. The flower appears against a crescent moon studded with graduated-size seed pearls. In the Victorian language of flowers, these elements were understood to symbolize “honey” (the flower) and “moon” (the crescent), thus representing “honeymoon”. These small pins were often given by grooms to their new brides as a wedding gift. For some reason, irises are somewhat uncommon in enameled jewelry. Though unsigned, the workmanship and style of this example suggests a Newark maker. The original clasp is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 7/8” x 13/16”. Weight: 2.3 grams.

A very fine Art Nouveau enameled 14K yellow gold cattleya orchid brooch by A. J. Hedges. This quality of this piece is stunning. The enamel fades from a milky semitranslucent texture near the center of the flower to very translucent pale shades at the edges of the petals. The color shifts from a greenish-cream color to a pure pink along the very edges. The orchid is fully three dimensional, and the throat is set with a small seed pearl. The stem, enameled in mottled pink and green extends below the flower. Hedges was among the very best of the Newark enamellers, but their products are very difficult to find. Along with Whiteside & Blank, their enamel flowers tend to be larger and more complex than those of most other American makers. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp stamped with Hedges’ hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 7.6 grams.

An extraordinary pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the shape of thistles. The leaves and choke of the thistle are bead-set with round cut emeralds, while the blossoms are set with pale round cut amethysts. The emeralds, though small, have medium-dark tone, intensely saturated green color. Though the individual stones are small, the strength of color creates a very good appearance, and there is no sign of treatment. The faces are connected by chains to ropetwist baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 7/8”. Weight: 13.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, .48 ct; emerald, 1.08 cts.

An elegant Art Nouveau glass vase decorated with enameled poppies. The blossoms are worked in shades of cream, yellow, rose and violet, while the foliage is stained a reddish-purple and highlighted with a complex, lacy pattern of gilding. The upper rim of the vase is decorated with a band of stained and gilt flowers, as well. The vase is blown in pillar form with an optic paneled design. The workmanship is very fine. Unsigned, but almost certainly the product of Mont Joye (also known as Verreries Saint-Denis or Legras).

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no cracks, no enamel or gilding wear, a 1/32" flake at the upper rim. Size: 8".

A very fine 14K rose gold brooch mounted with a Scottish Terrier carved from banded agate. The dog's head is beautifully rendered, using the stone's natural banded coloring to represent the dark colored muzzle and ears that contrast with the brighter carnelian of the fur. The eyes are represented by small round cut demantoid garnets set in a manner that nearly completely hides the gold collets holding the stones. The workmanship of the carving is first-rate. The setting is rather simple an does not detract from the beauty of the hardstone carving.

Faberge was a leading creator of hardstone carvings, and used carvings created in his own workshops as the shops of others. In Paris, Cartier was determined to compete with Faberge and also produced hardstone carvings. The Cartier versions, however, tended to be a little less realistic and rarely relied on the natural color variations of the stone material. The coloring technique strongly suggests that this carving is the product of a Russian workshop contemporary with Faberge, and possibly that of the master himself.

There appears to be a rubbed-out hallmark on the back side. This is occasionally seen in Russian pieces that had their marks obliterated shortly after the Revolution as their owners tried to smuggle jewels out of the country. Tested and guaranteed to be 56 zlotniks (slightly purer than 14K).

Origin: Russia, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-1/16". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Demantoid Weight: .1 ct.

An elegant pair of Edwardian 14K gold and platinum double-sided cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are set with plaques of black mother of pearl within engraved platinum borders. The faces are centered by natural seed pearls. The mother of pearl has strong iridescence, primarily in rose shades, against the silvery gray body color. Black mother of pearl is much less common than the lighter colors and creates a striking effect. The bright-cut engraving of the platinum borders adds a touch of sparkle. The backs of the faces are signed “Tiffany & Co.” and are marked “14K” and “Plat & Gold”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” (15 mm) diameter. Weight: 9.3 grams.

A wonderful solid brass humidor, the top embossed with the double eagle insignia of Russia's Imperial Romanov family, and the front embossed with the double lions rampant of the British Empire. The top, front and sides are enhanced with scalloped punchwork borders. The box is raised on claw feet. The interior has a removable tin liner and a perforated platform that was used to keep a moist sponge separated from the surface of the cigars.

England and Russia signed the Anglo-Russian Entente in 1907, and along with the Entente Cordiale (England & France) and the Franco-Russian Alliance (France & Imperial Russia), the three nations formed the Triple Entente that eventually entered into World War I against Germany and the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Anglo-Russian Entente greatly leveled the balance of power in Continental Europe and was widely celebrated. This box was created in honor of that event and may have been a mid-level diplomatic gift from a British representative to his Russian peer. Although we have not seen it, we understand that the same box exists with the French arms on the lid in place of Romanov double eagle.

Origin: England, ca. 1907. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original; it appears that the perforated sponge screen was originally soldered to the inside of the lid, but it is now separated. Size: 10-7/8" x 6-1/2" x 6".

A very attractive pair of Victorian 10K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces collet-set with oval turquoise cabochons. The gold is enhanced with foliate engraving. The turquoise has a fine medium greenish-blue color with reddish-brown matrix. Marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 4.3 grams.

Of the thousands of cufflinks we’ve handled over the years, this is the first pair of Art Nouveau bean-back cufflinks we’ve ever seen that have a matching design worked on both the primary face and the bean back. The 14K yellow gold links are worked with a repousse design of a maiden wearing an ornate headdress filled with the scrolls and whiplash curves typical of Art Nouveau design. The connectors are hallmarked by Krementz and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp details. Size: large faces, 3/4” x 9/16; small faces, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 5.2 grams.

A beautiful early Edwardian hair or photo locket, the front worked in a bright pink transparent guilloche enamel over an engraved sunburst background. The enamel is centered by a lustrous natural pearl set in a reeded collet. The back of the locket features a glass window enclosing a space for a small portrait or lock of hair. The space is lined in ivory silk. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, original glass cover. Size: 1” diameter, excluding bale and jump ring. Weight: 7.4 grams.

A beautiful pair of heavy 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks by Larter, each face featuring a bezel-set old European cut diamond. The faces are worked with engine-turned engraving in a complex sunburst and floral pattern, while the platinum borders are engraved in a beaded pattern against a stippled background. Even the hinged bridge connectors are beautifully engraved. The diamonds are of nice quality and good color. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .392 carat.