Catalog (2449)

An extraordinarily fine antique 18K yellow gold ring by Tiffany & Co. set with a mixed cushion cut Burmese blue sapphire surrounded by old mine cut diamonds. All the gems are of the finest quality. The sapphire has been certified by the American Gemological Laboratories (see the following paragraph). The diamonds, ranging in size from approximately .22 carat to .29 carat each, are estimated at G/H color and SI to VVS2 clarity. The sapphire is set in a prong setting, while the diamonds are set in a shared-prong setting that creates a filigree appearance around the back of the crown. The shoulders of the shank are lightly decorated with beaded engraving.

Nearly all sapphires marketed in the last 150 years have been heated to improve the color. This is considered a standard practice. Other treatments, such as filling in fractures, altering the color family, etc., though considered bad practice, are nonetheless quite common. Fine Burmese stones from the Mogok region that have not been treated in any way are exceedingly rare and only show up in upscale jewels from makers such as Tiffany and Cartier. This particular stone, with its bright coloring and beautiful cut, is nothing short of stunning.

The AGL Brief (dated April 2008) indicates that the sapphire is natural; displays specific properties and characteristics associated with stones from Burma; measures 7.39 x 6.69 x 5.82 mm; weighs 2.49 carats; is cut in mixed cushion, has blue color, and shows no heat or additional treatments. The brief further indicates that unheated sapphires are scarce. The original brief will accompany the ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, interior of shank has a period monogram. Finger Size: 4-1/4 (The ring can be sized up and we would recommend that the work be performed by Tiffany). Weight: 6.0 grams. Gemstone Weight: diamond (estimated by measurement), 2.25 carats; sapphire (by actual weight), 2.49 carats.

A delightful Victorian reverse carved crystal pendant set in 12K yellow gold. The pendant depicts a Yorkshire terrier (Yorkie). He’s beautifully and deeply carved and painted in shades of brown and cream. The texture of his fur comes across very nicely in the design. The dog wears a blue ribbon around his neck and displays quite a lot of character with a bit of tongue sticking out to one side and one drooping ear. The crystal is backed in gold rather than the mother of pearl that typically appears in later crystals. The pendant is bordered with a double ropetwist border. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no moisture damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 7/8” excluding bail.

A very fine Victorian silver plated flip-top card case, both sides heavily decorated with nautical themes. The front features a scene of a sloop in roiling waves passing a lighthouse in the background. The scene is surrounded by a border of seashells and seaweed, and a bare-breasted mermaid watches from one of the lower corners. The back of the is decorated in a pattern of waterlilies and foliage. The detail in the design is superb--one can even just make out the stars and stripes of the ship's American flag. The case is fitted with two pairs of loops so is can be worn suspended from a heavy chain.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: some plating wear along the edge near one of the chain loops and an area of dings on the bottom edge; the design areas are all in excellent condition. Size: 2-2/1" x 3-3/4" x 3/8".

A very fine French Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold brooch set with diamonds, blue sapphires and demantoid garnets around a central sugarloaf cabochon 3.59-carat peridot. The demantoids exhibit the desirable horsetail inclusions characteristic of Russian stones. The combination of blue sapphires and the bright grassy green of the demantoids and peridot is very pleasing. All the smaller stones are old mine cuts. Six small rose-cut diamonds are collet-set in silver. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem which is fully stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K gold and with an illegible goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 19/32". Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .15 carat; sapphire, .4 carat; demantoid, .46 carat; peridot, 3.59 carats.

A good, small-size 19th century Mexican retablo depicting San Jeronimo. After a spiritual revelation, the saint lived as a hermit, often flagellating himself with a scourge and beating himself with rocks. He is shown here his traditional attributes of penitence--the bloody scourge, a skull, and rocks. He is often shown with fresh self-inflicted wounds, in this case a spray of blood droplets from his chest. San Jeronimo was the first to translate the Hebrew text of the Old Testament into Latin and is considered one of the four most learned founders of the Catholic church. The retablo also shows an open book to symbolize his efforts. A trumpet blasts into the saint's ear as a reminder of his spiritual awakening. And finally, a peaceful lion crouches next to the saint. This example is well-painted in muted colors that contrast nicely with the bright orangey-red color of the saint's cloak. Images of San Jeronimo were popular throughout Mexico, but it is estimated that he appears in less than 4% of all retablos.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, no paint loss. Size: 5-3/8" x 7-3/8".

A very colorful 19th century Mexican retablo depicting a scene called "L'Alegoria de la Redencion." The composition depicts the elongated body of the crucified Christ spanning Heaven and Hell. God, making the sign of blessing and the Holy Spirit (in the form of a dove) watch from the upper section, while condemned souls in supplication watch from the flames of Hell at the bottom. Interestingly, the artist depicted one of the condemned souls as a Cardinal, indentifiable by his red cap. Mary watches the scene from one side, while the archangel Michael holds a balance in which he weighs the souls of sinners. Both Mary and Michael represent intercessory figures to whom one can pray for the salvation of loved ones. At either end of the arms of the cross, the sun and moon are shown against a starry sky. This represents the darkening of the sky at the moment of Jesus' death. The figures, especially that of Christ, are well-formed and colorfully painted.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1860. Condition: very good overall, paint wear along edges and a candle burn on the left edge near Mary, normal bending of tin and a notched corner at upper right. Size: 10" x 14".

A very fine Victorian 14K gold stickpin, the head set with a round hardstone cameo depicting a pheasant. The cameo is worked in banded white and brown agate. The carving shows a pheasant running along the ground amidst underbrush, and has superb detail. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, some waviness to pin shaft, no damage to cameo. Size: overall length, 2-13/16”; head, 13/16” diameter. Weight: 4.0 grams.

An elegant sterling silver trumpet vase with an opaque glass liner by either Jenkins or Armiger for F. Bucher & Sons. This silver is ornately decorated wthroses, forget-me-nots, wild roses, chamomiles and daises against a stippled background. Bucher was a retailer who stamped wares with his own mark, even though they were actually made by Jenkins, Armiger, Schofield or other leading Baltimore silversmiths of the day. The treatment of the chamomile blossoms and the use of cyma scrolls in the narrow borders are distinctly similar to Jenkins’ work, but the use of ferns amongst the foliage is more often seen in Armiger’s. The liner is opaque white glass with a translucent pink border at the undulating, flaring rim, and appears to be original. The base is marked “F. Bucher & Sons. Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 10-3/8” tall. Silver Weight: 161.4 grams.

A very good Classic Period glass paperweight with a pinchbeck design. The scene depicts the "Descent from the Cross" and shows two centurions, Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus taking the body from the cross while Mary weeps at Jesus' feet. The pinchbeck insert is finished in a silver tone rather than the more common gold. The crystal dome is of very good quality, with excellent clarity and good optical magnification to highlight the detail of the scene. The bottom of the weight retains its original red and gilt-painted decoration.

Origin: England or Continental Europe, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, light surface scratching at the top of the crown. Size: 2-5/16" diameter; 1-1/4" high.

A very good sterling silver wine bottle or decanter coaster by Gorham. The flared lip is heavily decorated with a floral scrolled border in the Rococo style. The repousse decoration is finely done. The bottom of the coaster is fully hallmarked with one of the older Gorham hallmarks, the design copyright date 1889, the pattern number 325 and the date symbol for 1891.

Origin: America, 1891. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding visible on very close inspection, no monogram. Size: 6-3/4" diameter. Weight: 135.6 grams.

A very attractive pair of Victorian beanback cufflinks, the oval faces set with with pyrope-almandite garnet cabochons. The gemstones have a much brighter red coloring than many garnets. The gold settings are decorated with foliate scrolled borders. The backs of the faces are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.0 carats.

A superb pair of mid-19th century 18K yellow gold, silver and platinum cufflinks set with diamonds and sapphires. The square faces feature collet-set old mine cut diamonds centering intricately pierced quatrefoil motifs bead-set with rose cut diamonds in silver. Rows of channel-set square sapphires radiate outward from the center diamonds toward the rounded corners of the faces. The center diamonds are approximately .2 carats each, are estimated at H/I color and SI2 clarity, and are set in silver as was the custom in jewelry of the era. The natural sapphires have vivid slightly greenish-blue to violet-blue color, and show no signs of treatment. The workmanship of the faces is very fine, with high quality beading, hand-sawn piercing and double-gallery construction. The faces are attached by gold chains to gold and platinum torpedo backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold, silver and platinum.

Ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 7.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .96 carat; sapphire, .34 carat.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with a three-dimensional Scottish halberd (a medieval battle axe) applique set with rose cut diamonds and a Persian turquoise cabochon. The Scottish halberd was a distinctive sort of battle axe developed in Scotland in the late 16th century which eventually came to be associated with ceremonial use by the Scottish nobility. During Queen Victoria’s reign, everything Scottish became very popular, and ancient designs such as this appeared in fashionable jewelry. This is quite an unusual design for a locket and it very rare. The locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “LML” (?). Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold medallion pin depicting Hamlet’s beloved Ophelia (the brooch uses the French spelling “Ophelie”) surrounded by cattails, willow branches and waterlilies, all symbols of her watery grave after she was spurned by Hamlet. Her hair is studded with small old mine cut diamonds. The back has a hook that would have been used to suspend a watch. The back retains the original c-clasp (marked 14K) and extended pinstem. Unlike most Art Nouveau medallion pins, this example is not hollow and is heavy. This design was created by the French jeweler Emile-Séraphin Vernier (1852-1927) and was introduced at the 1908 Exposition de la Parure de la Femme in Paris.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 7.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

An outstanding Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated in with an ornate pond scene incorporating rippling water, waterlilies and cattails under the watchful eye of the “man in the moon” and seed pearl stars. The scene is very original and is beautifully worked. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “GEG”. The interior retains both original frames and one of the glass covers. Marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 7.9 grams.

A very nice Imperial Russian enameled silver spoon by Gustav Klingert. The bowl is beautifully decorated in five shades of opaque cloisonné enamels and in translucent red and amethyst. The design I modified floral pattern with a Persian-style reserve. The handle is finished in a fish-scale enameled pattern. Exposed areas of silver are stippled and gilt. The interior of the bowl is engraved “Moscow”, indicating that the spoon was sold as a souvenir to an American or English visitor. The handle is fully hallmarked with the city mark for Moscow and Klingert’s maker’s mark. The date mark is obscured, but the assay master Lev Oleks was active only between 1890 and 1896.

Origin: Moscow, 1890-96. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, gilding intact. Size: 4-7/32” long. Weight: 15.9 grams.

A fine pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the double faces in the form of snarling mythological griffins. The details are beautifully worked. Mythological beasts such as griffins, dragons and sphinxes were especially popular in Art Nouveau jewels by French makers. Each cufflink has one face that is smaller than the other so that it can more easily be slipped through the cuff hole. Each cufflink is hallmarked with the French “tete d’aigle”stamp for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: full faces, 17/32” diameter; smaller faces, 17/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 8.0 grams.

A lovely pair of imperial Russian spoons, the backs of the bowls decorated with finely engraved scenes depicting portions of the Arsenal and the State Historical Museum on Moscow’s Red Square. The handles are finished in the traditional twist motif. The surfaces are gilt, and the engraving is worked through the gilding in some areas and more lightly in others, allowing a nice contrast of colors within the design. Each is fully hallmarked for Moscow, dated 1889 and with the maker’s mark for Ivan Alexeyev (1876-1912).

Origin: Moscow, 1889. Condition: excellent, gilding intact. Size: 5” long. Weight: 27.2 grams (the pair).