Catalog (2449)

A nice pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces fashioned from carved rectangular plaques of strongly-colored chrysoprase with faceted edges. The stones have nice translucency. The faces are attached by solid connectors to the heavy bar backs. The backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 1/2". Weight: 5.5 grams.

A lovely and unusual Retro 14K yellow gold floral pin, the flower set with a large round moonstone cabochon surrounded by round cut rhodolite garnet petals. The bouquet is tied together with a collet-set round cut citrine. The gemstones are of very fine quality. The moonstone has excellent blue adularescence and the rhodolites have intense raspberry red coloring. Rhodolite garnets are not often seen in Retro jewels. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.0 cts; rhodolite, 3.51 cts; citrine, .45 ct.

A stunning and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, green tourmaline and pearl bracelet signed by Everett Edward Oakes. The bracelet comprises nine comma-shaped flaring gold links, each set with either a tourmaline cabochon or a pearl. The gems are set in the notched collet-setting frequently employed by Oakes to show off a stone’s color and overall quality. The tourmalines have fine green color with moderate saturation and medium tone. The clarity is excellent for tourmalines of this type. The pearls are equally fine, with good shape and bright rose overtones. The design, with nearly a Retro feel, is a bit more modern than is often associated with Oakes, but the beadwork and notched collets are typical. The tongue of the concealed box clasp is marked “14K” and bears Oakes’ oak leaf signature.

Edward Everett Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for a few years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw. Oakes’ work shows a certain similarity with both Hale and Shaw. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can often be identified based on their decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, one pearl link has been removed to shorten the bracelet to a normal length. Size: 7-5/8” long; 1/2" wide. Weight: 24.69 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 8.95 cts.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.

A rare, complete set of sterling silver demitasse spoons in the "Flowers of the Months" pattern by Tiffany & Co. presented in their original fitted case. The finial of each spoon features an illustration of a different seasonal flower such as a holly, clover, iris, pansy, poppy, etc. The bowls are parcel gilt. The back of the spoons are stamped with the Tiffany hallmark used 1907-1947. These spoons were made for only a short duration and complete sets are quite difficult to find. The inside of the original case is stamped "Tiffany & Co. New-York Paris London".

Origin: America, ca. 1926. Condition: spoons are mint condition, the outside of the box shows some wear and discoloration to the silk covering. Size: 4-11/16" long. Weight: 204.0 grams.

An exquisite pair of Art Deco heavy 18K yellow gold snap cufflinks. Each round face is designed as a lion’s head superimposed over the classic French sunburst motif that made a reappearance in the decorative arts during the Art Deco period. The quality of workmanship is superb, with outstanding detailing in the design. Gold snap cufflinks are quite uncommon. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K “tete d’aigle” gold hallmarks and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 17.0 grams.

A wonderful Art Deco 14K yellow gold baton-link long chain, studded at intervals with oval moss agate cabochons. The long chain was a traditional Victorian style, but in this case was updated by replacing the usual small links with long baton-style links. The resulting linear look would have been considered much more modern and stylish. The links are interrupted by nine 7.5x9.0mm moss agate cabochons. The gemstones have very nice medium- to dark-green lacy moss-like inclusions against the colorless transparent background. Notice that the stones are set closer together toward the middle of the chain, and farther apart toward the ends. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 28” long. Weight: 18.9 grams.

A fine 1930's 14K yellow gold Art Deco mechanical wristwatch by by Hy Moser & Cie, and retailed by Tiffany & Co. Moser was the most important watchmaker in Imperial Russia, selling many of his goods to the Imperial family and courtiers. After the Revolution, the company was relocated to Switzerland and continued to provide movements to luxury retailers such as Tiffany.

The rectangular gold case has elegant flaring lugs at each corner. The face is in a matte ivory finish and studded with round diamonds at the 12, 3 and 9 positions. The face is completed with a sweep-second dial in the lower portion and is signed "Tiffany & Co." at the top. The 17-jewel movement is nicely decorated with guilloche engraving and is signed "Hy Moser & Co.". The inside back of the case is signed "Lapwell 14K". The leather strap and clasp are replacements.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: very good, working condition. Size: case, 1-7/16" x 1-1/8"; lug space, 23/32".

A very attractive pair of late Arts & Crafts or early Art Deco silver cufflinks by Saethers Gull og Solvvarefabrikk, a Norwegian silversmith known for inventive designs. One face of each cufflink is hinged for ease in putting through the cuff. The connectors are fully hallmarked.

Origin: Norway, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 27/32” x 1/2. Weight: 15.5 grams.

A delightful Retro 14K yellow and rose gold lucky four-leaf clover pin by Tiffany & Co. In the typical Retro style, the gold surfaces are large and mostly unadorned except for simple veining along the middle of the clover leaves. The back retains the original “fur clip” allowing the pin to be worn without actually piercing a garment’s fabric. The back is marked “14K Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 7.9 gr.

A beautiful Art Deco green-cut-to-clear decanter designed by Charles Graffart for Val St. Lambert. The pyramidal shape capped by an inverted stopper is very linear and perfectly accents the austere overlay cutting pattern. The base is signed "Val St. Lambert" and the stopper is engraved with a number that matches the number inside the decanter's neck.

Origin: Belgium, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Size: 9-1/8" tall.

A heavy and attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Art Deco cufflinks in the flip-up style. The round faces are decorated with engraved lines in a herringbone pattern. After being inserted in the button hole, the ends are flipped up to secure the cuff. This style is rather uncommon in cufflinks from North America, being much more prevalent in French cufflinks from the period. The connectors are signed by Birks and are marked “14Kt”.

Origin: Canada, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams.

An attractive pair of gilt 800 silver double-faced cufflinks. The round faces are simply decorated with concentric rings bordering central gilt reserves. The faces are joined with the hinge bridge connectors more often seen in Scandinavian designs. The connectors are marked “800” and have an unidentified maker’s mark “EP” in a diamond-shaped punch.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, original gilding intact. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

A classic Art Deco porcelain water jug advertising Ricard Anisette. In the south of France, tradition dictates that Ricard and other anise-flavored spirits be drunk with a side of water. Makers such as Ricard and Pernod provided advertising pitchers to local bars to increase their sales. This globe form is the classic shape from the first half of the 20th century. The bottom is marked “Ateliers de Céramique Ricard/Made in France”.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: good, there is a firing line in the spout and a flattened area on the foot, both original to the making; no subsequent chips or cracks. Size: 6” tall at handle.

A lovely Retro necklace worked in 14K rose and yellow gold and set with moonstones and amethysts. The necklace descends from a rose gold paperclip link chain toward a pair of openwork yellow gold plaques, each set with a round amethyst accented with a rose gold stylized flower, and flanking a central triangular plaque designed in the same manner. A pair of oval cabochon moonstones is set at either side. The central plaque suspends a larger oval moonstone with a nearly invisible setting. The moonstones have very nice bluish adularescence and the amethysts have rich purple color. The interplay of gemstone and gold colors and the unusual design mixing Victorian, Art Nouveau and Retro elements creates a very striking effect. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: ecellent, all original. Size: 17-5/8” long; central plaque and pendant, 1-3/8” long. Weight: 14.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.43 cts; amethyst, .32 ct.

A classic mid-20th century French silver tastevin of traditional form. The bowl is decorated with angled godrons for evaluating white wines and small convex perles and larger concave cupules for use with red wines. The handle, also, is in the traditional snake form. Up until the mid-20th century, a few silversmiths in France were able to raise an entire tastevin from a single Napoleon III 5-franc coin. The work was accomplished solely with the aid of variously-sized hammers which were used to thin and spread out the original coin and a series of other tools used to form the decorations. They can often be identified by the the exact weight (always 32.5 grams before the addition of the handle). Only a handful of master silversmiths were able to create a tastevin in which the phrase “DIEU PROTEGE LA FRANCE” (“God protect France”), which originally appeared on the rim of the 5-franc coin, was still legible at the rim of the tastevin. The last silversmith with this documented ability stopped working in 1968. The tastevin is stamped with the “Minerve” mark for 800 silver and with an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 25/32” high; 2-3/4” diameter (excluding handle). Weight: 32.9 grams.

A rare vintage sterling silver figural jigger in the form of a swing-handled fire bucket. The side is engraved “Fire Water”. The interior is gilt. The bottom is marked “Lunt Sterling 15”.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Size: 2” tall to rim; 3-1/4” tall to top of handle. Weight: 32.3 grams.

A beautiful set of six red-cut-to-clear cocktail glasses designed by Charles Graffart for Val St. Lambert. Graffart was one of the three designers chosen by Val to create their entire exhibit for the 1920 Exposition des Art Decoratifs. The austere angular cutting pattern works beautifully with the overlay.

Origin: Belgium, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Size: 2-3/4" tall.

NOTE: We also have a matching decanter, signed "Val St. Lambert", in green-cut-to-clear (Item #1093572). Together, they'd make a stunning Christmas decanter set!