Catalog (2428)

A lovely early Art Nouveau 18K gold sliding locket by the acclaimed medallist Jean-Baptiste Emile Dropsy. The front cover shows a bare-shouldered woman wearing a diamond necklace and hair ornament feeding a diamond seed to a bird in mid-flight, all surrounded by a bough of chestnut leaves. The diamond accents (“habillé”) add a bit of sparkle to the design. The bird appears to be a dove, representative of “love” in Victorian symbology, while the chestnut leaves represent the sentiment “do me justice.” Taken together, the message means some along the lines of wishfulness for being treated well in love. Dropsy was an early Art Nouveau designer and his female designs tend to be a bit more teasing Gibson Girl than the more overtly sexy nudes that came along a decade or so later. The back cover is decorated with a curved spray of roses complete with thorns. Roses were also used to symbolize love, and when thorns are present, sometimes hinted that love is not without occasional pain. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and mirrored glass, which could be replaced with photos if desired. The locket is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent, all original, a small ding on the back cover visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”
• Weight: 11.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A wonderfully naughty Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold ring depicting a couple engaged in mutual oral stimulation. Victorian and Edwardian erotic jewelry is extremely rare, having been made only for the daring few who were willing to wear such things in public. Like other pieces of erotica, the designer was charged with making the object look as innocent as possible, only revealing its true nature upon very careful and prolonged inspection. Upon first examination, this ring appears to be a typical sinuous floral Art Nouveau design. Looking closely however, the design reveals a man and woman amorously entwined. Even the back of the shank is decorated with a pair of somewhat cleverly concealed penises. The ring is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, very little wear. Size: 1/2" wide. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 7.5 grams.

An elegant pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold earrings designed in a openwork pattern of irises. The flowers and foliage are highlighted with delicate engraving. The gold surfaces are enhanced with the soft matte texture typical of French jewels of the period. The wires appear to be replacements and are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" 3/4". Weight: 4.7 grams.

A fine pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the double faces in the form of snarling mythological griffins. The details are beautifully worked. Mythological beasts such as griffins, dragons and sphinxes were especially popular in Art Nouveau jewels by French makers. Each cufflink has one face that is smaller than the other so that it can more easily be slipped through the cuff hole. Each cufflink is hallmarked with the French “tete d’aigle”stamp for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: full faces, 17/32” diameter; smaller faces, 17/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 8.0 grams.

Very fine pair of late Art Noveau 18K gold double-sided cufflinks. The faces show a beautifully designed young woman's face stylized wisps of hair cascading around a porthole-like frame. The design is really superb. The connectors open so the cufflinks are easy to put on. The backs are marked with French 18K import marks. The rather severely stylized design suggests that they are of Belgian or German (possibly Austrian) origin.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A fine pair of French Art Nouveau 18K gold cufflinks, the faces depicting a mythological dragon with a scaly body and feathered wings. The cufflinks are very finely detailed. The back are stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 9/19” diameter
• Weight: 9.8 grams

An elegant Art Nouveau bracelet worked in 18K gold, each link is the form of a pansy enclosed in a scrolling border. The Victorian floriography (the “language of flowers”), the pansy represented the sentiment “think of me.” Jewels with pansies were often given as a romantic gesture or by the parents of a young woman upon her marriage. The bracelet is stamped with 18K fineness marks and an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-7/8” long; 1/2" wide
• Weight: 16.4 grams

A striking Art Nouveau 18K gold and pearl necklace in the form of a pendant of chestnut leaves suspended from a cluster of chestnuts. The gold surfaces are entirely hand engraved with very fine detail. The pendant is set with a natural button pearl and suspends a second pearl at the bottom. The chain is enhanced with a series of tiny pearls, as well. Chestnut trees have traditionally represented fertility, but in Victorian flower language, came more to represent “luxury and abundance.” This style of necklace, called a “draperie” was a popular form among Parisian jewelers around 1900-10. The necklace is stamped with French 18K gold marks, as well as an illegible maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1905.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/8” wide x 3” long from the cluster of fruit to the suspended pearl; chain length, 15-7/8”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.

French Art Nouveau 18K gold and sapphire cufflinks, the triangular faces pierced in a decoration of stylized flowers and set at the centers with cabochon blue sapphires. The gold surface has a very handsome matte finish that allows the sapphires to shine. The connectors are stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified maker's mark (SAS).

• France, ca 1895.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail.
• 5/8" x 5/8".
• 7.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.04 carat.

A very fine French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold festoon necklace comprising three gold plaques exquisitely engraved in a pattern of roses and their foliage. The plaques are curved to create a "festoon" look, and are suspended from a gold chain set with natural seed pearls. The backs of the plaques are lightly engraved with a reverse image of the roses—a hidden luxury that speaks to the quality of the piece. Each plaque also includes stems with pronounced thorns, perhaps as a reminder of the selflessness of love. Victorian floriography adoped red roses to represent love from the myth of Aphrodite and Adonis. As she raced to the side of her fallen mortal lover, Aphrodite pricked her toe on the thorn of a white rose and her blood forever stained the flower red. The necklace is stamped with French 18K gold marks, and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: necklace length, 16-3/4"; central plaque, 1-7/8" wide, 1-1/4" high
• Weight: 21.9 grams

A fine pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of sinuously curved griffins. Mythological creatures such as griffins and dragons were a particularly popular subject matter for French jewelers of the era. The creatures are finely worked with excellent detail to the scales and other features. The chain connectors are fully hallmarked with French 18K hallmarks and with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 9.5 grams.

An extraordinary pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold enameled cufflinks, the faces featuring flowers bearing a secret message. In Victorian symbology, the daisy represented "innocence" or "purity", whereas the red poppy meant "pleasure". Taken together, the choice of flowers in these cufflinks was certainly intended to convey an erotic sentiment. The faces are beautifully hand-pierced and highlighted with translucent enamels in delicate shades of green, rosy red and whitish-yellow. The exposed areas of gold are worked in the semi-matte Russian finish popular in better quality Art Nouveau jewels. Each face is marked with the "tete d'aigle" for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; a couple of extremely minor enamel flakes under magnification. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a style blending elements of Aesthetic and Art Nouveau design. The round faces are decorated with a finely-pierced design of grapevines complete with clusters of fruit. The faces are joined by chains to torpedo backs. These would be a wonderful gift for the true wine lover and connoisseur. Fully marked with French hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 5.8 grams.

A pair of handsome 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed in an Art Nouveau interpretation of Gothic Revival. The heavy pierced front faces are reminiscent of the ornate carved stone bosses at the interesections of the ceiling ribs in a Gothic vaulted ceiling, while the back faces are pure Art Nouveau with whiplash curves. The pairing makes for a very attractive combination. The backs of the faces and the chains are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 5/8" x 5/8"; back faces, 1/4" x 7/8". Weight: 9.3 gr.

An elegant Art Nouveau silver brooch depicting a maiden smelling a rose. She is surrounded in a bower of climbing roses and enclosed in a frame of whiplash curves typical of French Art Nouveau. The clasp is marked for silver and bears the maker's mark of Fernand Boursot, who opened shop in Paris in 1894. THe brooch could be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top or a pair of bails and a split chain at the upper corners.

• France, ca 1895.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail.
• 1" x 15/16".
• 5.1 grams.

A delightfully feisty-looking cat is featured in the French Art Nouveau brooch. We’re particularly fond of his enormously long whiskers that stretch the full width of the pin. The pin is stamped with French silver marks and with an illegible maker’s mark.

NOTE: The pin could be worn as a pendant with the addition of a bail to the back.

• Origin: France, ca. 1905.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Weight: 5.4 grams.

A handsome pair of French silver Art Nouveau cufflinks, the faces decorated with a young woman against a spider web background. In Art Nouveau jewelry, the spider web motif was meant to symbolize entrapment and danger—in this case as a counterpoint to the maiden who suggests innocence. The outer edges of the faces follow the geometric shape of the spider web at the top, but are more rounded at the bottom of the design where the woman’s hair and clothing flows. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs engraved in a whiplash curve motif. The cufflinks are illegibly stamped with the maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original, very good detail. Dimensions: front faces, 9/16” diameter. Weight: 3.9 gr.

A lovely 18K gold bracelet in the Louis XVI style, the links fashioned as floral and foliate wreaths alternately centered with old European cut diamonds and round cut rubies. The pierced design lends a light appearance despite the bracelet’s substantial weight. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide; 7-1/2” long
• Weight: 29.1 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 carat; ruby, .44 carat

A lovely 18K yellow gold bracelet designed as floral plaques separated by bezel set blue sapphire cabochons. Each elegantly pierced gold plaque depicts a rose encircled by scrolls and flanked by additional flowers. The backs of the plaques are engraved in a matching motif. The high-domed cabochons have fine deep blue coloring and show no indications of heat treatment. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide; 7-3/8” long
• Weight: 22.8 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.12 carats

A superb late 19th century first standard (950/1000 pure) silver berry spoon with a shell-form gilt bowl. These spoons were originally intended for serving strawberries. The front of the handle is decorated with a twisting wreath of holly leaves and berries, and the back with a similar wreath of thistles. The bowl is beautifully worked in the shape of a scallop shell. Improvements in agriculture and railways made strawberries widely available to the wealthy classes in the 1870s. Special implements such as this were needed to compete the experience. Today, it could be used for any sort of desert or even hors d’oeuvres. The spoon is stamped with French silver marks and with an illegible maker’s mark. The quality of workmanship is easily on par with the great makers such as Odiot and Puiforcat.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: 8-3/4” long.
• Condition: mint; gilding completely intact.
• Weight: 99.5 grams.

Stunning single-vase epergne in blue opaline glass. The deeply ruffled edges of the trumpet vase contrasts with the gentler ruffle of the lower bowl. The coloring is particularly nice.

Origin: probably France, possibly England, c. 1840. Condition: the very bottom of the trumpet is broken off, but when the trumpet is in place, the break is below the juncture with the lower bowl and no problems are visible (there is a remote possibility that this damage was in the making); otherwise excellent. Size: 8-3/4" tall; 7" diam.

Handsome gilt bronze figure of a reclining dog (some variety of hound) mounted as a paperweight on a butterscotch marble base. The statue retains its original gilt surface and has achieved a very pleasing patina. The marble base is richly colored with gray veining.

Origin: France, circa 1850. Condition: some flaking to bottom edges of marble base, no cracks, no damage to bronze figure. Size: 4-1/4" x 2-3/8" x 2-1/4" tall.

An elegant first standard (950/1000 pure silver) French silver tastevin in typical 18th century Burgundian style. Rather than with the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons", the bowl of this tastevin is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is sometimes seen in tastevins made by Parrod, but the particular decoration is different than any other we've seen. Similarly, the handle, in the form of two duck heads grasping an apple is a very exaggerated variation of the usual form seen on tastevins from Lyon. The base is fully hallmarked and has an unidentified silversmith's mark "M tête grec D".

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3-3/16" diameter (excluding handle). Weight: 72.3 grams.

A very pretty early 20th century French silver tastevin in the style typical of Dijon in the Burgundy region of France. This style retains the usual convex base surrounded by a wreath of “perles”, but the gadrooning (“godrons”) along the side have been replaced with a decoration of very finely worked grape leaves and clusters of fruit. The handle, also in typical Burgundian style, represents two snakes with the heads of ducks grasping the forbidden apple between their beaks. Although the maker’s mark on the bottom is illegible, the quality of workmanship suggests that this tastevin may be have been made by Orfevres Parrod, one of the most important silversmiths in the region and a house particularly noted for its tastevins.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 2-5/16” diameter (excluding handle) x 13/16”. Weight: 33.4 grams.

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical “perles,” "coupules," and fluted “godrons”, the bowl is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is sometimes seen in tastevins made by Marc Parrod, one of the most influential makers of tastevins in the early 20th century. The handle is in the traditional form of two entwined duck-headed snakes grasping an apple in their mouths, thought to represent the snake and apple from the Garden of Evil, thus reminding drinkers of temptation and sin. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an illegible maker’s mark, possibly Parrod's.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 3-5/16” x 4-1/4” x 15/16”
• Weight: 55.3 grams

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. The bowl is engraved with repousse grape clusters and leaves in the 18th century style, but also with the more traditional raised “perles” and “coupules” seen in 19th century examples. The combination of the two is quite unusual. The handle is in the form of two snakes grasping an apple between their jaws—an element thought to stem from the Garden of Eden and intended to remind drinkers of temptation. The tastevin bears regional hallmarks for second standard silver and an unknown maker’s mark (J ancre de marine P). The pinpoint in the bottom of the bowl is a lathe-mark and suggests a date of the mid-19th century at the latest. The rim is engraved with the name of the original owner, “Ane [Antoine] Mouly-Chambon de Chas.”

• Origin: France, Burgundy region, ca 1840
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3-1/8” x 4-1/4” x 1-5/32”
• Weight: 118.4 grams

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical “perles” and fluted “godrons”, the bowl is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is sometimes seen in tastevins made by Parrod, one of the most influential makers of tastevins in the 19th and 20th centuries. The single snake handle, thought to represent the snake from the Garden of Eden, thus reminding drinkers of temptation, has an unusually well-detailed head. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an illegible maker’s mark, possibly Parrod’s.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 3-5/16” x 4-1/4” x 15/16”
• Weight: 58.8 grams

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pour silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons," the bowl is decorated with repousse grape leaves, berries and shells in the 18th century style. This treatment is sometimes seen in tastevins made by Parrod, one of the most influential makers of tastevins in the 19th and 20th centuries. The single snake handle, thought to represent the snake from the Garden of Eden reminding drinkers of temptation, has an unusually well-detailed head. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an illegible maker's mark, possibly Parrod's.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 3-1/4" x 4-1/4" x 15/15"
• Weight: 55.9 grams

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons", the bowl of this tastevin is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is sometime see in tastevins made by Parrod, one of the most influential makers of tastevins in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The handle is in the tradition form of two entwined snakes grasping an apple in their mouths, thought to remind drinkers of temptation and sin. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an illegible maker's mark.

France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3-1/4" x 4-1/4" x 1". Weight: 53.5 gr.

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons", the bowl of this tastevin is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is the classic Dijonais interpretation of the form. The handle is in the tradition form of two entwined snakes grasping an apple in their mouths, thought to remind drinkers of temptation and sin. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an unidentified maker's mark (EE with a plumb bob).

• France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, a small porosity blemish (1/4") under the rim on one side
• Dimensions: 3-1/4" x 4-3/16" x 1"
• Weight: 55.7 grams

A lovely small locked in the form of a four-leaf clover worked in 18K yellow gold. One petal is set with a round ruby. Each of the leaves is shaped in an exaggerated heart form, perhaps to suggest the beloved contents of the interior. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers, as well as photos of the original owner’s young husband and little girl in period clothing. The locket and jump ring are both stamped with French gold marks. Interestingly, the back of the jump ring is engraved “2016,” perhaps as a reference to when the locket was passed along to another generation.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 13/16” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 7.1 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .14 carat.

A wonderful French first empire tole ware monteith, the sides hand painted with bouquets of colorful flowers against ivory-colored reserves flanked by gilt grapevine designs. The sides rise to handles cast in the form of swans’ heads--a feature very rarely seen. Verrieres are typically oval in shape, but this example is round. The bowl is unusually raised on four lion’s paw brass feet. As a whole, this is one of the more elegant and interesting early tole verrieres or monteiths we’ve seen.

Elegant glassware was a luxury and even the wealthy didn’t have enough to provide a fresh glass with each different wine course during a formal dinner. The monteith or verriere contained water, and the guests’ glasses could be hung from the notched rim to be rinsed in the communal bath. Sometimes, the vessel was filled with cold water and the glasses were simply hung there to be chilled before the service.

Origin: France, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent original paint with slight loss to one bouquet, the interior shows surface rust as expected; three of the notches seem to have been bent and then straightened out again, but this appears to have happened long ago and without any re-painting. Size: 9-1/4" x 12-5/8" at handles; 4-1/2" high (6-1/4" at handles).

A very rare French first standard silver (950/1000 pure silver) tastevin, the bottom bearing the coat of arms of the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. The arms depict St. Vincent, patron saint of winemakers. The body is further decorated with the traditional raised "perles" for highlighting the reflections in the wine and recessed "cupules" and elongated "godrons" intended to concentrate the color during tasting. The handle is worked in the snake motif traditional in Burgundian tastevins. The rim is stamped with an unidentified silversmith's mark.

The Confrerie was established in 1934 to promote the wines of Burgundy. Modeled on Medieval guilds, membership in the Confrerie is strictly controlled and is open only to sponsored candidates. A tastevin bearing the arms of the Confrerie could only have belonged to a member. Tastevins used by the Confrerie come in a few different variations, with this being the rarest and most prized.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, light wear to coat of arms consistent with age, a minor ding to one cupule. Dimension: 3-1/16" diameter (excluding handle). Weight: 91.6 grams.

A very rare French first standard silver (950/1000 pure silver) tastevin, the bottom bearing the coat of arms of the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. The arms depict St. Vincent, patron saint of winemakers. The body is further decorated with the traditional raised “perles” for highlighting the reflections in the wine and recessed “cupules” and elongated “godrons” intended to concentrate the color during the tasting process. The handle is worked in the snake motif traditional in Burgundian tastevins. The rim is stamped with the master silversmith’s mark for Emile Mémery & Henri Hours.

The Confrerie was established in 1934 to promote the wines of Burgundy. Modeled on Medieval guilds, membership in the Confrerie is strictly controlled and is open only to sponsored candidates. A tastevin bearing the arms of the Confrerie could only have belonged to a member. Tastevins used by the Confrerie come in a few different variations (not all the members are wealthy and must make do with a silverplate taster), with the being the rarest and most prized. Known for their service to the elite of Burgundy, Alsace and Lorraine, Mémery & Hours were the preferred silversmiths to the Confrerie’s elite.

• Origin: Lyon, France, ca 1935
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on the coat of arms; a minor ding on each of two “cupules”
• Dimensions: 3-1/16” x 4” x 1”
• Weight: 96.8 grams

An extraordinary late Georgian 18K gold ring set with a carnelian carved into the leering face of a satyr classically portrayed with a goatee, a snub nose and pointed ears. The carved gemstone was likely already several centuries old when it was set into this ring. The expert carving is only eclipsed by the extraordinary artistry of the goldsmith. The bold shank is entirely covered in flower and foliage appliques expertly worked in rose, green and yellow gold. The carved stone is set in a bezel with matching decoration. The shank is stamped with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Satyrs were companions of the god Dionysus/Bacchus. They had the ears, tails and other very specific parts of horses along with grotesquely comical human faces. They were noted for a great enjoyment of wine, women and general carousing.

The ring was purchased from the family descendants of the French artist Carle Vernet (1758-1836). Vernet was something of a dandy right up to his death at the age of 78, and according to family tradition, the ring belonged to him. Vernet was a leading equestrian painter at Napoleon’s court as was awarded the Legion of Honor by the Emperor for his depictions of great French victories. He was likewise favored by Louis XVIII during the Bourbon Restoration. During the Directory period, he was famed for his humorous watercolor caricatures depictions of the ridiculous fashions worn by Paris’ high society.

• Origin: France, ca. 1810 (carnelian considerably older).
• Finger Size: 6 1/2.
• Dimensions: carnelian crown, 13/16” x 11/16”; shank tapers from 1/2" at the edge of the crown to 3/8” at the back.
• Weight: 10.8 grams.

Very rare heart shaped gilt bronze-mounted dresser tray with handmade lace insert. This is the only heart-shaped dresser tray I've ever seen. Marked on the bottom "France."

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, but could use some cleaning. Size: 10-3/4" x 8-1/2" x 1".