Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin/pendant formed as a pair of enameled flowers with foliage against an ornate asymmetrically scrolled pearl-set background. The flowers appear to be apple blossoms and are beautifully enameled in iridescent shades of yellow and rose. The smaller flower is centered with a small old European cut diamond. The other flower and the scrolled background is set with seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp as well as a folding bale to the piece can be worn as either a pin or a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; all origina; no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 inches. Weight: 6.8 grams.

An Edwardian gilt silver ("vermeil") locket enhanced with bright turquoise blue guilloche enamel. The starburst design of the champleve is enhanced with gilt accents in the enamel. The locket retains the original insert frames on both sides. Stamped with English hallmarks; the city mark is obscured, so we can't be certain of the exact date letter, but we believe it to be 1917.

• England, ca 1917
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Weight: 13.0 grams

A superb Edwardian ring featuring a 1.89 carat antique cushion sapphire asymmetrically flanked by a pair of old European cut diamonds (.40 and .35 carats, both I color and one with VS1 clarity and the other with SI2 clarity, in buttercup settings. The design is further enhanced with scrolls set with rose cut diamonds. As is typical of the period, the gold ring is topped with platinum to highlight the color of the stones. The sapphire has beautiful texture and color that reads blue across the room. The stone shows no indication of heat treatment and is characteristic of the best sapphire from Sri Lanka. The shank is stamped with French import marks for 18K gold and platinum.

• Origin: French import marks, but likely American, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide
• Finger Size: 5-3/4” (easily sizeable)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.86 ct; diamond, .89 ct
• Weight: 5.4 grams

Lovely Edwardian brooch featuring beautifully-crafted floral swirls and filigree of yellow gold surrounding a carved oval plaque of chrysoprase centered with a collet-set white sapphire. The pinstem is marked with partially illegible marks. The maker's mark "WW" (or "MM") is clearly stamped. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: Continental, circa 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16" x 13/16". Weight: 4.0 grams.

An extraordinarily fine and rare Art Nouveau sporting brooch featuring an enameled fox head superimposed over a horseshoe, a riding crop and a whip. The horseshoe is set with old mine cut diamonds simulating the nails. The fox's eyes are set with rubies. The pin is beautifully enameled in lifelike colors. The fox's mouth is open to show fierce jagged gold teeth. An identical brooch was featured in the "Masterpieces of American Jewelry" exhibition held in 2005 at the Museum of American Folk Art in New York. It is also published in the exhibition book by the same name. The pin in unmarked, but is a known Alling Bros. design.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-15/16"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .05 carat; diamond, .10 carat

An elegant pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold, platinum and mother-of-pearl cufflinks by Carrington. The round, slightly concave mother-of-pearl faces are centered with small natural pearls and enclosed within engraved platinum borders. Both the mother-of-pearl and the pearls have very nice luster and color overtones. Each face is hallmarked by Carrington, one of the leading American manufacturing jewelers at the turn of the 20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A handsome and colorful pair of reverse-carved Essex crystal cufflinks set in 14K yellow gold. The faces feature color fly fishing lures in shades of red white and black against mother-of-pearl backgrounds. The front faces are attached by bar connectors to simple gold backs that are original to the cufflinks. The backs have never been monogrammed. The connectors are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; no chipping or damage to the crystals. Dimensions: front faces, 19/32" diameter.

A very fine dress set comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and four shirt studs. The faces are worked as star-cut frosted rock crystal discs set in platinum borders with engine-turned engraving and centering French-cut blue sapphires. The connectors and stud findings are in 14K yellow gold. The sapphires have fine, vivid coloring and excellent clarity. The connectors are stamped with Krementz's hallmark and "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16" diameter; studs, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 13.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .78 carat.

A very nice pair of Art Deco 14K gold and enamel cufflinks by Carrington. The enamel is worked in a particularly pleasant shade of French blue with opaque white accents. The gold surfaces underneath the translucent enamel had engine-turned engraving in a pattern that suggests moire silk. The edges of the faces are very slightly, gracefully bowed outward. The connectors are hallmarked by Carrington. These cufflinks, worked in a different color combination, are shown in “Cuff Links” by Jonas and Nissenson.

Origin: America, 1910-15

Condition: excellent, minute surface wear visible under 10x magnification

Size: 9/16” x 9/16”

Weight: 10.5 grams

A handsome and heavy pair of 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces engraved with in a spiral pattern. The engraved design creates an interesting play of light and shadow. The back of each face is stamped with Carrington’s 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 17/32” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.4 gr.

A delightful Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from long Mississippi river pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with an old mine cut diamond. The pearls have very attractive lustre and the diamond has nice color and clarity (J/VS2). The back retains the original pendant hook and pinstem/clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 4.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

Very nicely detailed 14K yellow gold Victorian stickpin in the form of a maple leaf set with 5 seed pearls. The back is marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" long.

A lovely, colorful Art Nouveau 14K gold, seed pearl and enamel pin in the form of a violet by the Newark firm Crane & Theurer. The flower petals are enameled in cream darking gradually through lilac to deep violet along the edges. Each of the petals is finished with an arc of tiny seed pearls echoing the larger pearl set at the flower's center. The reverse is stamped with the maker's hallmark and "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8".
• Weight: 4.1 gr.

A nice pair of late Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face centering an oval blue sapphire cabochon surrounded by engine-turned engracing. The sapphires have deep blue coloring. The back of one cufflink is engraved "Linked with fondest memories" and the other completes the inscription with "To J.M. from R.M. 1919." The connectors are stamped "14K" and have the maker's mark for Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

• America, ca. 1919
• Excellent, original condition
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1/2"
• Weight: 8.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.28 carats

An elegant pair of double-sided cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum. The gold oval reserves are enhanced with engine-turned engraving in a striped pattern and are surrounded by engraved platinum borders. The backs are marked “14K-Plat” and have the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1910

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 11/16”

Weight: 8.8 grams

An elegant Edwardian bracelet comprising rectangular filigree plaques of 14K gold centering collet-set oval amethysts. The filigree is amazingly detailed. The amethysts have rich, saturated color and no zoning. The tongue of the clasp is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-5/16” long, 1/2" wide
• Weight: 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 16.02 carats

An exquisite Art Nouveau enameled 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a peacock. The bird is worked in stunningly applied translucent enamels in shades of rose, blue, green, yellow, black and violet. The curling tail feathers are set with seed pearls and body is surrounded by an assymetrical frame set with seed pearls and suspending a small old European cut diamond and an oval brilliant-cut peridot. This is one of the very finest enameled bird brooches we’ve seen. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” x 1-5/8”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .03 carat; peridot, .59 carat.

Edwardian enameled 14K gold “bean-back” cufflinks. The faces are decorated with elegant engine-turned engraving and a wide border of opaque white enamel. The shanks are marked for gold content, and also for the maker, Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss Co. (1909-15) of Newark, NJ.

Origin: America, 1909-15. Condition: faces are excellent with no damage to enamel; the “bean” backs have the usual light dings from normal wear and one shank is slightly bent (does not affect wearability, stability or appearance). Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

A lovely conversion ring featuring a a guilloche enamel plaque centered with a blue sapphire cabochon. The pale blue translucent enamel is accented with engine-turned engraving and is surrounded by a border of opaque white enamel with gold accents. The ring was created from an Edwardian stickpin with the addition of a 14K gold shank (the front is 18K).

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .13 ct
• Weight: 2.3 grams

A lovely late Victorian 18K yellow gold locket, the cover enhanced with repousse decoration featuring a pair of race horse heads encircled by a wreath of roses. The wreath is tied at the back with a ribbon edged in milgrained platinum and studded with four small rosecut diamonds. The detailing of the design is very nice. The back of the locket has an ornate “SC” or “CS” monogram. The interior retains its original gold frames. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-3/16” diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum bangle bracelet, the top set with four sets of three round brilliant sapphires separated by rows of round single-cut diamonds. The sapphires are superb quality, with medium-tone, vivid violetish blue color in sunlight and a nearly pure violet color in incandescent light. The stones are eye-clean and are perfectly matched. Color-change sapphires are rather uncommon and matched stones such as these are very rare. The diamonds have bright color and SI clarity. The sapphires and diamonds are in a millegrained platinum setting with a delicately pierced gallery along the sides. The bracelet has an unidentified maker’s mark (a pair of acorns). Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/16” wide; 6-1/4” circumference. Weight: 8.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; color-change sapphire, 4.68 cts.

A very attractive pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with a swirling motif centering pairs of beautifully-colored opals. The opals have very good play-of-color with a preponderance of green and blue with a hint of orange-red. The backs of the faces are stamped with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: very good, no dings to gold; one opal has a small chip that is only visible under very close inspection in raking light. Dimeions: faces, 3/4 x 7/16 in. Weight: 6.7 grams.

A heavy classic belcher chain link necklace in 12K yellow gold. The chain is heavy and solid enough to suspend any of the heavier Victorian lockets or large pendants. It also looks stylish worn simply as a chain. The lobster claw clasp is a replacement and is 14K. The chain itself tests 12K.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Length: 22-5/8" long. Weight: 17.7 grams.

A great pair of Art Nouveau sterling silver bean-back cufflinks in the form of dogwood flowers. The faces are very nicely detailed. The backs of the faces and the connectors are marked “Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 7.5 grams.

An exquisite English Art Nouveau 15K yellow gold pendant,centering a 5.02 carat pear shaped brilliant cut aquamarine with round brilliant pink tourmalines at either side, and suspending a free-hanging oval pink tourmaline. The gold surfaces are set with tiny seed pearls. The use of pastel gemstones is especially elegant and feminine and would have complemented the pale dress fabrics of the Edwardian era. The back of the pendant is engraved "JKM/JKC 1908/1909." It was likely a present to celebrate a first wedding anniversary. Marked 15Ct.

Origin: England, 1908. Condition: excellent, all original including pearl-set bail. Dimensions: 15/16" x 2". Weight: 4.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 5.02 cts; pink tourmaline, .93.

An elegant very early Edwardian 14K yellow gold ring of navette shape set with an interesting spotted or moss agate cabochon. The agate's body color is a translucent goldish-gray color with darker markings that resemble a tiger's stripes. The gold setting is delicately enhanced with bright-cut engraving. The very long navette shape is very flattering to the finger. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Ring Size: 8. Dimensions: crown 7/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 5.2 gr.

A very fine 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with a beautifully detailed depiction of the Viking god Odin, father of all gods and men. He is traditionally depicted wearing a helmet enhanced with horns and feathered wings. The locket retains its original glass insert. The back was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with repousse decoration of a young woman wearing a diamond-set diadem and flowers in her hair encircled in a laurel wreath. The quality of workmanship is excellent. The old European cut diamond add a perfect touch of sparkle. The interior retains both of its original frames and glass covers. The front side of the interior also contains a fragment of alabaster with carving. It might be Egyptian or something equally ancient, but whatever it is, someone took the trouble to create a mounting so that it fits perfectly into the repousse recesses of the cover. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; two minor pinpoints on back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A tiny enameled violet and a free-hanging baroque freshwater pearl enhance the dainty 10K gold pendant, complete with a curb link chain. Violets were used to represent the sentiments of love and faithfulness in the Victorian era. The pearl has nice luster that contrasts prettily with the colors of the enamel. The chain is marked 10K, and the pendant is tested 10K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/4" x 9/16"; overall necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 3.3 grams.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with an ornately detailed lion’s head. The cat’s mane flares out from the face grasping a round cut diamond and ruby-set eyes. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The gold surfaces have the slightly matte finish popular at the end of the 19th century. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A very handsome 10K yellow gold man’s ring, the setting featuring an Art Nouveau take on Gothic arches. A bezel set oval brilliant-cut amethyst crowns the ring. Stones set in this style of ring can often appear too dark, but this amethyst has a pleasant moderate color that reads violet even from a distance. The interior of the shank is stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter and 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 5/32” at the back of the shank. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A gorgeous and generously sized Art Nouveau 14K gold and diamond locket by Carter, Gough & Co. The cover features a maiden emerging from a bouquet of flowers. The choice of flowers in the bouquet sends a very specific hidden meaning in Victorian floral symbolism. The iris on the left means, "I have a message for you," and the jonquil on the right means, "I desire a return of affection." The flowers and the maiden's hair are studded with six old mine cut diamonds. The background is worked in a stippled pattern that contrasts beautifully with the hand-chased design. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram "MCR". The interior retains the original frame and is engraved "June 30, 1903." The interior is stamped with Carter, Gough's hallmark.

• America, 1903
• 1-1/2" diameter (excluding the bail and jump ring)
• 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat

A very rare 14K gold and diamond Art Nouveau medallion watch pin featuring a portrait of Sacagawea. She is shown in profile, wearing a feathered headdress and a bear claw necklace, gazing out over plains dotted with teepees. An old mine cut diamond (G, VVS2) glimmers in place of the sun on the far opposite side. This piece was likely made at the time of the centennial anniversary of the Lewis & Clark Expedition in 1905. The back retains the original watch hook and pinstem. The clasp is marked for 14K and has Larter’s hallmark. The piece can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail.

• America, ca. 1905.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail
• 3/4” diameter
• Weight: 5.2 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 carat

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with cabochon agates. The variety of agate is called “landscape agate” because the colors and markings resemble painted landscapes. These particular stones suggest colorful sunsets behind wooded landscapes. The bezel settings are finished with fine millegraining. The connectors are marked 14K and have an unknown American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 10.4 grams.

An attractive Victorian shell cameo depicting Diana/Artemis, goddess of the hunt, the moon, and nature. She is shown wearing her crescent moon tiara. As a virgin goddess, Diana was considered the protector of women, especially during childbirth. The cameo is set into a wide gold frame ornately engraved in a floral motif. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, as well as pendant hook that appears to be a later replacement. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• America, circa 1900
• Very good condition; no cracks to shell; replaced pendant hook
• 1-15/15" x 1-5/8"
• 10.8 grams