Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

An uncommon 18K yellow gold charm or pendant in the Sputnik style, bezel-set with round amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, aquamarines, citrines and garnets. The design was created by H Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each Sputnik piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific combination and placement of the various gemstones. This particular example has strong contrasts between the darkest and lightest stones. The Sputnik design was most commonly used for rings. Pendants and charms, especially large ones that are fully spherical, are difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” diameter. Weight: 6.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.98 ct.

An outstanding 18K gold begging poodle pin, the shaved parts of the body represented by a carved carnelian and the head set with an emerald eye and a ruby tongue. The back is finished with a hinged double clip. The pin is stamped with French 18K hallmarks and an illegible maker's mark. It is also marked "18K."

• Origin: France, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 2-1/8" x 1-1/8"
• Weight: 21.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .09 carat; emerald, .07 carat

A very nice vintage H. Stern style "Sputnik" charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and collet-set with a variety of colorful gemstones including amethyst, citrine, aquamarine, pink tourmaline and green tourmaline. This design was popularized by Stern, the world's largest source of colored gemstones, to show off the range of colored stones available from Brazilian mines. The pointy design was reminiscent of the first Soviet satellite and was nicknamed "Sputnik". A variety of pieces were made in this style, but charms and pendants are among the most difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" diameter (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.07 cts.

A large Etruscan style 18K gold fob charm an a crown form, set with emerald and round cut citrines. The gold surfaces are decorated with twisted wire and rosettes, and the lower portion has a Florentine finish with engraved details. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca, 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-3/16” x 1-3/8” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Citrine Weight: 37.4 carats
• Weight: 22.6 grams

This vintage Italian 18K gold and ebony blackamoor charm is distinguished by particularly nice carving. She is adorned with gold hoop earrings and a gold collar that forms the base of the charm. The bottom is stamped with 18K gold hallmarks used in Florence 1938-64.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1950.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" tall (not including bail or jump ring).

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemond Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem, and his designs became iconic. In this example, the word “moins” is represented by a minus sign set with a synthetic ruby. This is the first time we’ve seen a medaille d’amour incorporated into a larger pendant design that also features a rose and a heart. The pendant is stamped with French 18K marks and Augis’ maker’s mark. The pendant is sold with its chain which is not gold.

• Origin: France, ca. 1950s or early 60s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 5/8”
• Weight: 2.2 grams.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of Brazilian gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The aquamarine’s deep, dusky blue color contrasts beautifully with the gold, which is worked with florentined engraving typical of Burle Marx’s pieces. The shape of the stone also creates a wonderful linearity that looks beautiful on the finger. The interior of the shank is fully signed and marked for 18K.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. He was also a favorite jewelry of Hollywood stars Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965.
• Dimensions: crown, 1-1/8” x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 4 (can be enlarged).
• Condition: excellent; no abrasions; no dings.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. This is the first time we've seen a blue tourmaline in a Sputnik ring. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This ring has unusually saturated colors, particularly in the green tourmalines and garnets. The shank is stamped "18K".

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.81 cts.

A superb Ventian Etruscan pendant or charm set with citrine, smoky quartz, green and green tourmaline, aquamarine, blue topaz, hessonite garnet, and almandine garnet. These large pendants come in many different shapes, but this is the first time we've seen one in the shape of a six-pointed star (Star of David.) The gemstones are nicely colored and all the gold surfaces are enhanced with intricate ropetwist and beaded decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 3.0 cts; smoky quartz, 3.0 cts; tourmaline, 1.6 cts; aquamarine, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.
• Weight: 11.0 grams

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with round amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice medium-light violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounded gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide x 1” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.04 carats
• Weight: 6.2 grams

A very large, heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm pendant set with oval brilliant cut amethysts and pearls. The gold surface is heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. The amethysts have vivid, even coloring. The pearls display good luster with a slightly rose overtone that nicely complements the amethysts. The jump ring is marked "Italy 18K." This is easily the largest and heaviest Venetian Etruscan piece we've had.

• Italy, ca. 1955.
• Excellent condition.
• 1 1/4" x 1" x 1 3/4" long (excluding jump ring).
• 28.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 29.52 carats.

An 18K yellow gold Sputnik charm or pendant by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, garnets, and green tourmalines. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to showcase the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a different appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This pendant has soft, mostly darker tones. Since it’s a complete sphere, this piece is technically a charm, but can be worn as a pendant. Charms are among the most difficult Sputnik forms to find. Marked 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955
• Condition: very good; one green tourmaline has a surface chip
• Dimensions: 7/8” diameter
• Weight: 5.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 carats

A fine Italian Etruscan style 18K gold fob charm set with amethysts and pearls. The charm is shaped as a crown. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire and rosette motifs. The oval amethysts have nice medium color intensity and the pearls have good luster. The charm bears the maker’s mark of Figli di Vittoria Franconeri di Lidia (Florence).

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” x 13/16” x 1-1/4” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 7.99 carats
• Weight: 12.8 grams

A fine 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This example has darker, warmer shades with an almost autumnal tone. The shank is stamped “18K”.

Origin: Brazil ca 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 15/16” diameter. Finger Size: 8-3/4”. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.65 cts.

A wonderful vintage 14K gold acrostic charm using the first letters of each of the gemstones ( Diamond/Emerald/Amethyst/Ruby/Emerald/Sapphire/Topaz) to spell out the secret message “Dearest”. Acrostic jewelry first appeared in the 18th century and remained popular, though somewhat uncommon, throughout the Victorian era. The gold is enhanced with bright-cut engraving a pattern like that seen on sundials. This piece was most likely intended for a charm bracelet, but it could easily be worn as a pendant. The back of the charm is engraved “3-17-59” and is marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, 959
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” corner to corner
• Weight: 7.3 grams

A nice 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. The gems in this ring are particularly brilliant in mid-tone colors surrounding the central aquamarine. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 13/16" diameter. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 5.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.99 cts.

A lovely mid-century 18K yellow gold pendant featuring a deeply-colored elongated piece of coral in an ornately scrolled and beaded setting in the Venetian Etruscan style. The goldwork is entirely handmade. The coral has a faceted surface which is an unusual and difficult enhancement. The coral has the deep coloring found in Mediterranean coral in the waters near Naples. The color is entirely natural, as can be seen from the natural pale spot at the upper corner of the gem. There is another small dot on the right side of the gem, but those at at the bottom are light reflections. The back is marked "750".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 15/16". Weight: 9.4 gr.