Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed (162)

Superb Mikimoto brooch in the shape of a harp. The harp’s sounding board is set with a row of ten fine AA pearls graduating from 3.3 to 5.8 millimeters, and the strings are studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The neck and column, both worked in gold, are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare, and this example is nearly certainly a custom-made piece. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. The brooch is accompanied by a March 2006 written appraisal from the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/32” x 1-5/32”. Weight: 11.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .12 carat.

A colorful 18K gold and gemstone ring from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Created in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes garnet, amethyst, citrine, peridot, and blue topaz. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s hallmark. One side of the shank is engraved with a star centering a small diamond, also a Stern branding.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide at front, tapering to 5/32” at the back.
• Finger Size: 7 1/2.
• Weight: 4.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight:2.14 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

Gorgeous pair of signed Mikimoto 18K yellow gold, pearl and diamond earrings. Each earring features a cluster of five 6.0—6.5 mm pearls, topped with a golden bow and sprinkled with prong-set round brilliant-cut diamonds. The pearls have white body color with strong rosé overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are free of blemishes. The pearls are extra fine AAA—in other words, the absolute finest quality available anywhere in the world. The diamonds are of equally fine quality, rated at E color, VVS clarity. The backs have posts and omega clips. Each earring is marked with Mikimoto’s shell hallmark and “750” for 18K. The earrings are presented in their original Mikimoto hinged box, along with the original Mikimoto gift box.

The earrings are accompanied by an August 2006 written appraisal for $6,500 by Bailey, Banks & Biddle’s Mikimoto specialist appraiser.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/32” x 15/16”. Weight: 16.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 carat.

A classic Mikimoto ring featuring a cluster of 6.3mm pearls crowned with a star of six round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The pearls have fine luster, with cream body color and rose overtones, and are graded AA. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s hallmark and for 18K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8” diameter. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 ct.

A beautiful and very heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet set with blue sapphires by Tiffany & Co. Each link is designed as a pair of ropetwist arches joined by a prong-set round sapphire. The links are hinged, so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable to wear. The sapphires are medium dark blue with moderately strong saturation, and show no indications of heat treatment. This classic design would look good with a business suit, a cocktail dress or jeans. The box clasp is marked “18” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 1/2" wide. Weight: 56.0 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.6 carats.

A lovely older Cartier 18K yellow and white gold ring set with a .347-carat round brilliant diamond. The design, a wide tapered band, combines the two colors of gold in a very nice geometric design that perfectly complements the single diamond collet-set in the middle. The diamond is of fine quality, estimated at G color, VS clarity. The ring has a substantial appearance and could be worn by either a woman or man (though the size is a bit on the small side). The interior of the shank is signed “Cartier”, is dated “1989” and has a serial number.

Weight: 11.1 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .347 carat. Finger Size: 5-1/4. Size: 9/16” wide, tapering to 7/32”.

A superb modernist 18K yellow gold pendant set with a large bi-color tourmaline. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his bold use of very large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting. The color of this tourmaline shades from deep green to deep purplish-red. The gold mounting which slightly mimics the outline of the tourmaline is decorated with stippling and Florentine engraving. The back is is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “18K” and “No Bras”.

Marx exclusive boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC but he maintained close ties to his native Brazil. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.1 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the ROUND design by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Peretti’s designs transform even the simplest geometric shapes into beautiful and original jewelry. The round shapes are adorned only with an off-center round “dent” that flattens the sphere. The eassings can be dressed up or down for wear with nearly any outfit. The backs are omega clips with posts. The earrings are signed by Peretti and Tiffany, and are presented in their original dark blue Tiffany box. Tiffany recently brought back this design and the earrings retail for $3200.

• Origin: America, ca 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” (24mm) diameter
• Weight: 16.5 grams

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds by David Yurman. This design, part of the “Cable Buckle” collection, combines Yurman’s classic cable motif with an open buckle pave-set with round brilliant diamonds, graded as G/VS2. The earrings have posts with Omega clips. The earrings hug the ear closely, so they are appropriate for either day or evening wear. The backs are signed “D. Yurman 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but the original retail price was $3,950.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .45 ct.

A beautiful pair of matte-finished 18K yellow gold earrings from Judith Ripka’s high-end collection. Each oval cushion-shaped earring is highlighted with a pair of pave-set diamond hearts flanked by rows of beading and rope motifs. The diamonds are G/H color and VS1 clarity. The backs of the earrings have hooks so that gemstone pendants can be added—perhaps pearl drops or even larger diamond or colored stone solitaires. The backs retain the original posts and omega clips. Each earring is marked “Judith Ripka 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but similar earrings in the 2010 collection retail at approximately $2000.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings designed by Frank Gehry for Tiffany & Co. These “Hoop” earrings are from the “Equus” line, one of the six original lines Gehry created in 2006. There were two different earring designs in the Equus line, this style being the more uncommon. The earrings are bead-set with round brilliant cut diamonds one side. They can be worn with the diamonds showing outward, or reversed to show the plain gold side. The diamonds are estimated at G/VVS quality, and are 2.5 points each. The “Equus” line is no longer available from Tiffany. Each earring is marked “T & Co./Gehry/750”.

In 2006, Gehry became the first designer allowed to sign his own works for Tiffany since Paloma Picasso in 1980. Gehry’s designs draw on his expertise as one of the 20th Century’s greatest architects. The “Equus” line is based on the abstract, undulating “horse head” motif that appears in some of his buildings, most notably the auditorium inside the DG Bank headquarters in Berlin.

Origin: America, ca. 2006. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” long. Weight: 12.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .4 carat.

A very attractive pair of vintage 18K yellow gold star earrings by Tiffany & Co. The stars are slightly pulled out of shape, so the design has a sense of movement, and the legs are slightly faceted for a little extra shine. The earrings have Omega backs and the original posts, which could be removed for wear as clips. Each earring is signed "Tiffany & Co.", is marked "750" for 18K gold, and is dated 1983.

Origin: America, 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16" x 7/8". Weight: 11.3 gr.

A stunning 18K white gold and blue sapphire ring from the "Paris Nouvelle Vague" collection launched by Cartier in 1999. The collection was inspired by the dynamism of the City of Paris. The ring is designed as an unending double spiral of white gold with one loop extended into an oval. The band crosses over at the top and is set with a row of eleven vivid pure blue round brilliant-cut sapphires. The interior of the shank is signed "Cartier" and is marked "750" for 18K gold and "55" for the size. It is also marked with the serial number 34958B" and with "tete d'aigle" marks for 18K gold. The ring is presented in its original red leather and suede fitted box imprinted Cartier and includes the original matching outer box. This ring is no longer available at Cartier.

Origin: France, ca. 1999. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2 to 8. Dimensions: width varies from 3/16" to 3/8". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.06 carats.

An elegant and exceptionally high quality pair of earclips in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and sapphires by A Péry et Cie. The earrings feature fields of pave-set round brilliant diamonds bisected by bands of rectangular cut blue sapphires. The diamonds are E color and VS2 clarity; the sapphires are medium-dark strong blue (B6/5) color and eye-clean clarity. Each earring is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and is signed by A. Péry et Cie. The clips have holes, so posts could be added without disrupting the integrity of the earrings.

Péry worked as manufacturer for Van Cleef & Arpels, but also worked for Boivin, Mellerio and other important French jewelers. Péry was responsible for some of VCA most iconic 20th century designs including the Ludo bracelet and the zipper necklace. The Péry ateliers are now owned by VCA.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 14 x 24 mm (9/16 x 15/16 in). Weight: 17.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 ct; sapphire, 3.25 ct.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings in Tiffany & Co.’s classic “Signature” pattern. The simple x-shaped design can be worn with everything from jeans to a cocktail dress. These earrings were produced in several sizes, these being the largest. The design is no longer in production and the large earrings are very difficult to find. The earrings retain their original posts and omega clips. If desired, the posts could be removed without disturbing the Tiffany signature, allowing the earrings to be worn as clips. Signed “T&Co.” and marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1991. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 1”. Weight: 23.3 grams.

An elegant vintage Tiffany & Co. diamond ring from the "Vannerie" collection. The domed band is worked in a woven motif bisected with a slash of round brilliant cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded G/VVS2. The interior of the shank is marked "Tiffany & Co. 750 1989."

• Origin: America, 1989
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at front tapering to 1/4" at back
• Finger Size: 8-1/4
• Weight: 13.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 carat.
• Condition: excellent; typical surface wear at the back of the shank

An 18K tri-color gold ring in the inconic "Double C" motif by Cartier, with a stack of yellow, white and rose gold bands terminating in yellow gold C's at the opening. The interior is marked with Cartier's signature, the serial number "F95043", and the design date "1997".

Origin: France, ca. 1997

Condition: excellent

Finger Size: 56 European/8 US (can be opened slightly)

Dimensions: band, 1/4" wide; C's, 5/16" wide

Weight: 5.2 grams

An elegant pair of classic Tiffany & Co. 18K yellow gold hoop earrings in a braided, twisted rope motif. The backs have posts with omega clips. The interior of each hoop is marked "Tiffany & Co. 1995 750".

Origin: America, 1995

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1" diameter, 1/4" width

Weight: 11.2 grams