Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed (162)

A colorful pair of 14K yellow gold earrings by popular New York jewelry designer Sonia Bitton, whose collections have been sold at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. The earrings feature round cut amethysts, citrines, peridots, blue zircons, pink tourmalines and garnets, each set in a movable bezel. When being worn, the bezels move freely on their framework, allowing the gems to shimmer. The back are signed “Sonia B” and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Size: 13/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, .8 ct; amethyst, .8 ct; zircon, .7 ct; tourmaline, .5 ct; peridot, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.

Lovely signed Mikimoto flower-form brooch in 18K yellow gold set with pearls. The flower petals are made up of very fine quality 6-6.5mm pearls, estimated at AA. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. The body color is white with green/rose overtones. The back of the pin is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and the gold content.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: mint. Size: 2-1/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.5 grams.

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” pendant in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design has become one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable designs. This pendant is the second largest of the four available sizes. The pendant is suspended from its original Tiffany chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti” and both the pendant and chain are fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece is currently available at Tiffany & Co. and retails for $1735.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: pendant, 1” x 1-1/16”; chain, 18” long. Weight: 10.1 grams.

An elegant 18K yellow gold, Akoya pearl and diamond heart ring by Mikimoto. The diamond-studded heart is centered with a cluster of three 4.3-4.5mm pearls, graded as extra-fine AAA—the highest possible quality rating. They have fine luster and white body color with rosé overtones. The diamonds are E/VVS. The interior of the shank is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

The ring is accompanied by a 2006 written Bailey, Banks & Biddle appraisal for $2150.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Dimensions: heart, 5/8" x 1/2". Weight: gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

A very nice 14K yellow gold 5mm cable twist bracelet with domed ends set with pearls and rubies from the “Cable Classics” collection by David Yurman. The 4.8mm pearls are beautifully accented with rows of channel-set round rubies. This design is one of the earlier pieces from the “Cable Classics” collection, and is no longer in production. The original retail price was $2,450. The open cuff is flexible and can be spread to fit nearly any wrist. The interior of the bangle is signed “D. Yurman 14K”.

Origin: America. Size: 5mm diameter. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .51 ct.

A colorful 18K gold and gemstone ring from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Created in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes garnet, amethyst, citrine, peridot, and blue topaz. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s hallmark. One side of the shank is engraved with a star centering a small diamond, also a Stern branding.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide at front, tapering to 5/32” at the back.
• Finger Size: 7 1/2.
• Weight: 4.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight:2.14 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A classic Mikimoto ring featuring a cluster of 6.3mm pearls crowned with a star of six round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The pearls have fine luster, with cream body color and rose overtones, and are graded AA. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s hallmark and for 18K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8” diameter. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 ct.

A lovely older Cartier 18K yellow and white gold ring set with a .347-carat round brilliant diamond. The design, a wide tapered band, combines the two colors of gold in a very nice geometric design that perfectly complements the single diamond collet-set in the middle. The diamond is of fine quality, estimated at G color, VS clarity. The ring has a substantial appearance and could be worn by either a woman or man (though the size is a bit on the small side). The interior of the shank is signed “Cartier”, is dated “1989” and has a serial number.

Weight: 11.1 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .347 carat. Finger Size: 5-1/4. Size: 9/16” wide, tapering to 7/32”.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds by David Yurman. This design, part of the “Cable Buckle” collection, combines Yurman’s classic cable motif with an open buckle pave-set with round brilliant diamonds, graded as G/VS2. The earrings have posts with Omega clips. The earrings hug the ear closely, so they are appropriate for either day or evening wear. The backs are signed “D. Yurman 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but the original retail price was $3,950.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .45 ct.

A beautiful pair of matte-finished 18K yellow gold earrings from Judith Ripka’s high-end collection. Each oval cushion-shaped earring is highlighted with a pair of pave-set diamond hearts flanked by rows of beading and rope motifs. The diamonds are G/H color and VS1 clarity. The backs of the earrings have hooks so that gemstone pendants can be added—perhaps pearl drops or even larger diamond or colored stone solitaires. The backs retain the original posts and omega clips. Each earring is marked “Judith Ripka 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but similar earrings in the 2010 collection retail at approximately $2000.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

Very stylish vintage 14K yellow gold brooch by Tiffany & Co. The simple flowing design will nicely accent a business suit or a little black dress. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K Germany". Ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/16" x 5/8". Weight: 4.0 grams.

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring set with an amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx is well-known for his free form designs, but his collaborations with his brother, the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, had a much more linear, abstract feel as in this piece. The amethyst at the center is of the very finest quality, with intensely purple color and excellent clarity. The gold is completed with the finely worked florentined finish typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1970
• Excellent condition
• 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 5-3/4
• 17.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats

An exceptional Boucheron cocktail ring set with nine round brilliant diamonds and thirteen round emeralds. The diamonds are graded as E/VVS1 and the emeralds have intensely saturated medium-dark green color and very good clarity. The emeralds are characteristic of stones from Colombia. The glamorous marquise shape is generously sized, covering the entire first portion of the finger. The stones are clustered tightly together so almost no gold shows from the top, and layered so the crown rises more than a half-inch from the surface of the finger. The interior of the shank is signed "Boucheron Paris", "Or 750", "51469". The exterior is stamped with the French guarantee mark and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1-3/16" x 3/4". Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.75 cts; emerald, 3.75 cts. Boucheron's exceptional diamond and emerald cocktail ring set in 18K yellow gold packs a punch of color and glitter. The glamorous marquise shape covers the entire first joint of the finger with shimmering gemstones. The stones are layered tightly together so almost no gold shows through and layered so that the crown of the ring stands more than a half-inch off the finger. The nine round brilliant cut diamonds have E color and VVS1 clarity, and the twelve emeralds have intensely saturated color xcellent cut and clarity. The ring

Fabulous 1960's David Webb seven-strand emerald bead torsade necklace finished with an 18K yellow gold clasp featuring a cushion-shaped rock crystal plaque centering a oval cabochon emerald flanked at the top and bottom with round brilliant-cut diamonds. This design is so evocative of the classic chunky Webb style, and the workmanship is of the finest quality. The diamonds are F color, VVS2 clarity. The 305 carats of fully-faceted emerald beads are fully faceted and are beautifully matched to the 27.28-carat cabochon emerald in the clasp. The emeralds, graded as "medium, moderately-strong, slightly yellowish green" (slyG 4/4), have a very pleasing and lively appearance. The clasp is signed "Webb" and is marked "18K".

When worn with the clasp, the necklace can be worn with the clasp at the front, back or to the side (our favorite). The torsade may also be worn without the clasp. For an even simpler, more modern look, the clasp may be threaded on a black silk cord as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: overall length, 17-5/8"; clasp, 1-3/8" x 1-3/16". Weight: clasp, 26.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.16 carats; emerald, 332.28 carats.

A fine pair of modernist 18K yellow gold earclips by Burle Marx set with intricately carved amethysts in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stones. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The backs of the earrings are signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”. The earrings have clip mechanisms, but posts could easily be added without disturbing the integrity of the earrings.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring (Item #1233380).

An important artist-designed 18K yellow gold and emerald ring by Maison Gennari of Paris. The ring is styled in the Art Nouveau taste, with a voluptuous mermaid surrounded by waves and seaweed. She leans against a pair of cabochon emeralds, whose green color reinforces the watery feeling of the design. The ring is stamped with French 18K marks and is signed by Maison Gennari.

Francois Gennari was a jeweler who collaborated with sculptors to create one-of-a-kind jewels. The works were displayed at the Galerie Gennari at 25, rue Bonaparte in Paris. Gennari primarily used the lost-wax method, insuring that each piece is virtually unique.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: shank tapers from 9/32" to 5/8" wide. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 18.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.24 cts.

A very fine and heavy vintage 14K yellow gold necklace by Tiffany & Co. The timeless braided design is enhanced by the gradual tapering of width from the center toward the clasp. The flat braided construction allows the necklace to life flat against the throat. This design has been reinvented several times over the years, and this piece likely dates from the 1960s. It is not currently available, but chains of similar weight are available from Tiffany in the $5,000 range. The clasp is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 16-1/4” long; 3/8” wide at center. Weight: 31.2 gr.