Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Retro (58)

A substantial Retro 18K rose gold bow pin set with diamonds and natural rubies. The center knot features an old mine cut diamond flanked by small rose-cut diamonds set in white gold that extend out across the loops of the bow. Two rows of natural rubies accent the design. The rubies have fine red coloring without the hint of purple often seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940.
• Dimensions: 2 3/8" x 1 1/2".
• Weight: 17.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 carat; ruby, 1.09 carats.
• Condition: excellent, all original.

A very nice Retro 14K yellow gold statement ring set with an imposing lemon yellow emerald cut citrine flanked by natural ruby cabochons. The split shank with a cage setting holds the citrine only at the very corners, so from the top, the entire ring appears to be one large expanse of gemstone. The rubies provided a nice pop of color. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Dimensions: citrine, 19x11mm. Weight: 13.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.16 cts; citrine 23.20 cts.

Very nice 14 karat yellow and rose gold brooch in the Retro Modern style, set with a single deeply lustrous 4.5mm pearl. The circle is rose gold, and the leaves are a slightly green-tinted yellow gold. The interplay of gold colors is a signature of period Retro Modern jewelry. The back is marked by the jeweller, A. J. Hedges & Co.

Origin: Newark, NJ, circa 1935. Condition: virutally mint, all original. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8".

A noble poodle stands encircled in a ring of gold in this Art Deco period French 18K gold charm or pendant. The dog’s stylized design echoes the ribbed and twisted rope motifs along the edges. The pendant retains the original matching jump ring. Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” wide; 1 1/8” height (including jump ring).
• Weight: 4.8 grams.

A lovely and unusual Retro 14K yellow gold floral pin, the flower set with a large round moonstone cabochon surrounded by round cut rhodolite garnet petals. The bouquet is tied together with a collet-set round cut citrine. The gemstones are of very fine quality. The moonstone has excellent blue adularescence and the rhodolites have intense raspberry red coloring. Rhodolite garnets are not often seen in Retro jewels. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.0 cts; rhodolite, 3.51 cts; citrine, .45 ct.

One of the nicest Retro buckle bracelets we’ve seen, this 18K gold and platinum example comprises a strap of honeycomb-shaped links set off with a large buckle pave-set with rose cut and single cut diamonds in platinum. The buckle’s tongue, frame and loop are set with calibre cut synthetic rubies. This bracelet has a particularly sculptural appearance. Rubies from the Retro period are nearly always synthetics because the usual shipping lanes from the gem mines of southeast Asia were cut off because of World War II. The bracelet bears French marks for 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions 7” circumference; strap, 1” wide; buckle, 1-1/2” wide
• Weight: 90.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 4.5 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat

A very attractive Retro 14K yellow gold and platinum ring, set with an old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of round blue sapphires. The stones are set in very interesting mounting with a looping quality typical of Retro pieces. The diamond is I color, I1 clarity and the sapphires are graded as medium tone, moderately strong violet-Blue (vB5/4). Retro pieces set with sapphires are less common than those featuring ruby, citrine, amethyst, etc. The interior of the shank is stamped “585” for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/8” x 3/4”. Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 4.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; sapphire, .39 ct.

An 18K yellow gold and platinum brickwork strap and buckle ring by J. E. Caldwell. The buckle and the tongue of the strap are worked in platinum and set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and VS clarity. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 2 to 8. This style of ring was popular in the Retro period, but only Caldwell, Tiffany and few other luxury makers crafted them with adjustable mechanisms such as this. Stamped with Caldwell’s mark and appropriate serial numbers.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 11/32” wide. Finger Size: 2 to 8. Weight: 8.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .38 cts.

An imposing, yet very wearable Retro ring featuring a large, deeply colored honey-gold rectangular step-cut citrine flanked by lines of calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) between lines of bead-set old European and single-cut diamonds. The color contrast of the stones is quite striking and the size is imposing without being overdone. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 7/8".
• Finger Size: 7-1/2.
• Weight: 9.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 13.12 carats; diamond, .25 carat.

A lovely stylized flower basket pendant featuring flowers set with diamond, emerald and sapphire centers. The surrounding foliage is worked in a mix of glossy and stippled finishes to add depth and detail. The gemstones are of very good quality, with vivid color saturation and good clarity. The back of the pendant has a fixed bail and a pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. It is stamped with French marks for 18K gold.

Ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-7/16". Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .02 ct; emerald, .07 ct; sapphire, .10 ct.

NOTE: The listed price includes the 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos, but we offer the option to purchase the piece without the chain.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.

A lovely Retro necklace worked in 14K rose and yellow gold and set with moonstones and amethysts. The necklace descends from a rose gold paperclip link chain toward a pair of openwork yellow gold plaques, each set with a round amethyst accented with a rose gold stylized flower, and flanking a central triangular plaque designed in the same manner. A pair of oval cabochon moonstones is set at either side. The central plaque suspends a larger oval moonstone with a nearly invisible setting. The moonstones have very nice bluish adularescence and the amethysts have rich purple color. The interplay of gemstone and gold colors and the unusual design mixing Victorian, Art Nouveau and Retro elements creates a very striking effect. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: ecellent, all original. Size: 17-5/8” long; central plaque and pendant, 1-3/8” long. Weight: 14.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.43 cts; amethyst, .32 ct.

An attractive pair of Retro 14K yellow gold dangle earrings fashioned as circles of gold balls centering round brilliant cut amethysts. The amethysts have rich deep coloring and excellent clarity. The earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted to wires. The new look is much more wearable and provides tons of sparkly movement!

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide; 1 3/8" long from top of wires.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.76 carats.
• Condition: Very good; a couple of small dings on the back sides.

A classic Retro buckle ring worked in 18K yellow gold buckle ring with a platinum loop set with single-cut diamonds and the end tip set with caliber-cut rubies. Unlike in many Retro pieces, the rubies are natural. The ring has four holes that allow it to be adjusted from size 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.

Circa 1935.
• Dimensions: belt, 3/8” wide; platinum loop, 19/32” wide.
• Finger Size: adjustable from 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.
• Weight: 8.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .25 carat; diamond, .12 carat.
• Condition: excellent; fully functional; closes securely.

A fine Retro brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with diamonds and blue sapphires. The brooch is shaped as a stylized bow when worn vertically or a comet when worn sideways. The gold surfaces are pierced to lighten the overall effect. The center is set with a cluster of round brilliant and single-cut diamonds (J/SI1) surrounded by blue sapphires of slightly violetish-blue color and excellent clarity. The back is marked 14K and also has a mark for an unidentified maker.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 2-5/16" x 1-7/8"
• Weight: 18.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A lovely pair of 10K yellow gold drop earrings decorated with a golden bows centered with round brilliant cut blue zircons. The gems have deep coloring and show nicely in a small size. These Retro earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted for pierced ears. The earrings have nice movement and could be worn with either casual or cocktail attire. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, circa 1935.
• Excellent condition.
• 9/16" wide; 1-1/4" long from top of wire.
Weight: 3.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Zircon Weight: 1.28 carats.

A 14K yellow gold and platinum flexible brickwork strap and buckle ring set with round diamonds and rubies. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 5-3/4 to 10. The style of gem-setting, with the scalloped border, is bolder than many examples. The diamonds average I/J color and SI clarity. The rubies have nicely saturated purplish-red color. Tested and guaranteed 14K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 7/16” wide; buckle 11/16” wide. Finger Size: 5-3/4 to 10. Weight: 12.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .40 ct; ruby, .50 ct.

A lovely pair of colorful Retro earrings worked in 14K yellow gold. Each earring is fashioned in a stylized fan pattern set at the center with a round brilliant cut blue zircon and a spray of oval cabochon moonstones. The intense electric blue of the zircons heightens the softer, billowy blue adularescence of the moonstones. The zircons are set in rose gold, while the moonstones are in yellow. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8 x 3/4 in. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: zircon, 1.76 cts; moonstone, 7.38 cts.