Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A delightful mid-Victorian worked in shades of 14K rose and green gold. The small pendant/pin depicts a green gold frog against and engraved background of rose gold cattails and other marsh plants accented with green gold leaves. The overall design is really fun. The back of the pendant/pin is gold-filled, but is original. A folding bail has been added so the piece can be worn as a pendant or as a pin. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, a tiny ding underneath one of the bottom corners. Dimensions: 11/16" x 11/16". Weight: 5.0 grams.

Very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a coiled snake. The head is set with an old European cut sapphire. The engraved detailing is very nice. The snake motif in Victorian jewelry, often used to represent eternal love, became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring as her betrothal gift. Hallmarked with the French "tete de cheval" and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, circa 1850. Condition: all original, the pinstem has the usual bends that are not visible when being worn. Size: 2-1/2” overall length; snake, 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and beveled crystal porte-photo (“photo carrier”), the gold rim simply decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. It is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair or a memento such as a pressed flower on the other. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more "private" photo on the reverse. These lovely little pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent; very minor surface scratching on crystal consistent with age and a small roughness of the edge of the crystal (not visible when inside the frame). Size: 29/32” x 1-3/8” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.3 grams.

A fine 18K yellow gold Victorian bracelet in the Etruscan Revival taste. The bracelet comprises ten 7-mm gold beads ornately decorated in twisted wire- and bead-work. Two 8.5-mm beads flank the clasp. The beads are joined by trace link chains, the larger beads being separated at a greater distance from the others. The placement of the hallmarks on the chain segments indicates this is the original design of the bracelet and that it has not been altered. French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/2". Weight: 6.5 grams.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum bangle bracelet, the top set with four sets of three round brilliant sapphires separated by rows of round single-cut diamonds. The sapphires are superb quality, with medium-tone, vivid violetish blue color in sunlight and a nearly pure violet color in incandescent light. The stones are eye-clean and are perfectly matched. Color-change sapphires are rather uncommon and matched stones such as these are very rare. The diamonds have bright color and SI clarity. The sapphires and diamonds are in a millegrained platinum setting with a delicately pierced gallery along the sides. The bracelet has an unidentified maker’s mark (a pair of acorns). Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/16” wide; 6-1/4” circumference. Weight: 8.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; color-change sapphire, 4.68 cts.

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

A beautiful, delicate Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet in 14K yellow and white gold, set with blue sapphires and pearls. The traditional double knife-edge frame is decorated on the front side with a foliate-design plaque worked in white gold. The plaque is set with an alternating row of blue sapphires and 2.95mm pearls. The sapphires are a lovely bright cornflower blue with a hint of violet (graded as vB5/4) and show no indications of heat or other treatment. They are typical of stones from Ceylon (Sri Lanka). The pearls, though small, are fine quality with ivory body color and rose overtones. The overall effect is very elegant. The clasp is stamped with a variation of the hallmark used by A. J. Hedges & Co., a leading American jeweler of the period.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/16” wide; 6-7/8” interior circumference. Weight: 11.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .73 ct.

Phenomenally impressive late Edwardian bar pin featuring 54 diamonds set in 18K white gold. The diamonds are cut in rose-cut (smallest stones) and old-European and brilliant cuts (larger stones). The color and clarity is outstanding. The larger stones are estimated at VVS1 clarity and G color. The larger stones are .45, .38, and .38 carats. The medium-sized stones are all between .11 and .18 carats. The total weight is 2.16 carats. The setting is quite simple, pointing toward Art Deco design. The brooch retains its original pinstem trombone catch. The back is marked "750" and has a unidentified jeweler's mark "M".

Origin: Europe, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4" long, 3/8" wide. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.16 carats.

An extremely rare French 18K gold stick pin, the head set with reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting the historic first airplane crossing of the English Channel by Louis Bleriot in 1909. Transportation-themed Essex crystal jewelry is very rare, but those clearly linked to a specific vehicle or event are truly exceptional. The colors of the painting are vibrant and there is no sign of moisture damage. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1909. Condition: excellent. Size: head, 11/16” diameter; overall length, 3”. Weight: 6.8 grams.

A handsome man’s ring featuring a large lapis lazuli cabochon set in a 10K yellow gold mounting decorated at either side of the crown with a sword, shield and victor’s laurel wreath. The lapis has very good color with a bright smattering of attractive pyrite inclusions. The inside of the shank is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 10. Weight: 9.8 gr.

A very fine 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with a beautifully detailed depiction of the Viking god Odin, father of all gods and men. He is traditionally depicted wearing a helmet enhanced with horns and feathered wings. The locket retains its original glass insert. The back was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.

A superb Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with a scene depicting a maiden in flowing drapery amidst a rose garden with Classical ruins in the background. A cherub reaches down to touch her shoulder. The upper edge is set with a fine 5-pt ruby of slightly purplish-red color. Locket designs of this complexity are quite uncommon. The back cover is engraved "Aunt Dora to Dora 1906". The interior is marked "14K".

Origin: America, 1906. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding on back cover. Size: 1-3/16" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a pearl-studded horseshoe enclosing a beautifully-enameled violet. The petals are worked in realistic shades of purple fading to pinkish-cream at the centers and the flower is accented with a bright green leaf. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet was used to symbolize faithfulness. Combined with a horseshoe for good luck, a pin of this sort almost certainly would have served as a going-away gift. The original clasp is stamped 14K and has Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 13/16" x 3/4". Weight: 3.3 gr.

A delightful Victorian 10K yellow gold figural ring in the form of a genie. The genie's hands are folded across his chest and grasp a old European cut yellow sapphire. The use of a fancy color sapphire in a piece such as this is quite original. The stone is graded as very light, very slightly grayish Yellow-Green (YG 2/3). The ring's shank is in the form of sinuous snake whose head peers over the genie's shoulder and gazes at the glimmering sapphire. The design is just beautifully thought out and the detailing is excellent. The interior of the shank is marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; wear consistent with age to the facet junctions on the crown of the sapphire. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Size: 13/16" wide at widest. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.53 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A very handsome 10K yellow gold man’s ring, the setting featuring an Art Nouveau take on Gothic arches. A bezel set oval brilliant-cut amethyst crowns the ring. Stones set in this style of ring can often appear too dark, but this amethyst has a pleasant moderate color that reads violet even from a distance. The interior of the shank is stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter and 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 5/32” at the back of the shank. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

A very pretty Art Nouveau honeymoon pin worked in 10K yellow gold enhanced with enamel and seed pearls. The iris blossom is beautifully decorated in translucent shades of purple and greenish-yellow enamel and is centered by a small seed pearl. The flower appears against a crescent moon studded with graduated-size seed pearls. In the Victorian language of flowers, these elements were understood to symbolize “honey” (the flower) and “moon” (the crescent), thus representing “honeymoon”. These small pins were often given by grooms to their new brides as a wedding gift. For some reason, irises are somewhat uncommon in enameled jewelry. Though unsigned, the workmanship and style of this example suggests a Newark maker. The original clasp is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 7/8” x 13/16”. Weight: 2.3 grams.

An elegant pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold earrings designed in a openwork pattern of irises. The flowers and foliage are highlighted with delicate engraving. The gold surfaces are enhanced with the soft matte texture typical of French jewels of the period. The wires appear to be replacements and are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" 3/4". Weight: 4.7 grams.

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pansy pin enameled in rich shades of dark plum, violet, cream and saffron. The jeweler used a matte enamel to suggest the velvety texture of pansy petals. The flower is centered with a prong-set round cut diamond that adds a nice sparkle against the matte enamel. The back of the pin is marked for 14K and also has a maker's mark that we've not seen before. The pansy is most definitely a Newark or New York piece and is very similar to pansies by Hedges and Larter. Unlike most other pansies, the pin has rather substantial weight. The pansy was a popular flower for jewelry and in the Victorian language of flowers, it signified remembrance.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .09 ct.

A delightful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold circle pin, the center set with an enameled trillium blossom. The petals are beautifully enameled in translucent shades of ivory and green. The gold surface below the enamel is intricately engraved. The blossom is centered by a pale coral bead. The periphery of the circle brooch is set with small seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked 14K and bearing the hallmark for Bippart, Griscomb & Osborn.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, the swivel bale has been removed but can be replaced with no solder work necessary. Size: 31/32" diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A very fine, beautiful Art Nouveau gold brooch featuring a row of three kittens sitting on a diamond-studded platform. The kittens are finely cast with excellent attention to detail. The cat at the far right appears to be licking his neighbor while the one of the opposite end seems completely aloof from the proceedings. The bar supporting the cats is topped with silver in the traditional style of French Art Nouveau jewelry and is set with antique cushion-cut diamonds of very nice quality. Interlaced gold volutes are suspended below the diamond platform. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, both marked with “tete d’aigle” stamps for 18K gold. The clasp also bears an illegible maker’s mark. The back is also stamped with a serial number, “6044”, indicating it was sold by an exclusive jeweler. While dogs are a relatively common theme in 19th century jewelry, domestic cats are much less so.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .675 carat.

A very fine Art Nouveau enameled 14K yellow gold cattleya orchid brooch by A. J. Hedges. This quality of this piece is stunning. The enamel fades from a milky semitranslucent texture near the center of the flower to very translucent pale shades at the edges of the petals. The color shifts from a greenish-cream color to a pure pink along the very edges. The orchid is fully three dimensional, and the throat is set with a small seed pearl. The stem, enameled in mottled pink and green extends below the flower. Hedges was among the very best of the Newark enamellers, but their products are very difficult to find. Along with Whiteside & Blank, their enamel flowers tend to be larger and more complex than those of most other American makers. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp stamped with Hedges’ hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 7.6 grams.

A stunning French 18K yellow gold and diamond pansy brooch in the Art Nouveau taste. The petals are beautifully decorated in translucent enamels shading from silvery white to cream to rose. The outer ruffled edge of each petal is outlined in small rose cut diamonds. The pansy is centered by a larger rose cut diamond of unusually good color and clarity. As is typical of 19th century French jewels, the diamonds are set in silver. Each petal is cast separately and then attached to the others with a screw mechanism. The back has a replaced pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, one 1/8" area of flaking enamel visible under magnification. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 18.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.385 cts.

A wonderfully naughty Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold ring depicting a couple engaged in mutual oral stimulation. Victorian and Edwardian erotic jewelry is extremely rare, having been made only for the daring few who were willing to wear such things in public. Like other pieces of erotica, the designer was charged with making the object look as innocent as possible, only revealing its true nature upon very careful and prolonged inspection. Upon first examination, this ring appears to be a typical sinuous floral Art Nouveau design. Looking closely however, the design reveals a man and woman amorously entwined. Even the back of the shank is decorated with a pair of somewhat cleverly concealed penises. The ring is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, very little wear. Size: 1/2" wide. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 7.5 grams.

A lovely 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau bracelet comprising a series of round floral plaques, each hinged separately for comfort. The center five plaques are set with a round brilliant cut ruby at the middle of each blossom. The rubies have a strong purplish-red color that contrasts nicely with the yellow gold. Each plaque is pierced around the flower petals for added delicacy. The concealed clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7-1/2” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.02 cts.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a violet, each of the petals worked in soft shades of violet, rose, cream and green. The flower is centered with a 10-pt old European cut diamond. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet represented faithfulness. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 7/8”.

A very fine 14K yellow gold bracelet of interlocking floral plaques in the Art Nouveau style. Five plaques are set with round brilliant cut green tourmalines of particularly fine quality. The bracelet is finished with a concealed box clasp marked "RMU 585".

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 9/16" wide; 7-3/4" long. Weight: 21.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.28 cts.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold locket in the Art Nouveau taste, the front cover depicting a water nymph, her streaming hair entwined with seaweed studded with small rose-cut diamonds. Her ear is adorned with an earring in the form of a coral branch. Her head appears just above delicately rippling waves that high the word “Eau” for water. This design was part of a four-part series designed by Bargas representing the four elements of earth, air, fire and water. They are sometimes seen as buttons, but very rarely worked in gold and used as a locket. Like many French lockets of the period, this example opens by swiveling sideways rather than being hinged. The interior retains its original fittings and glass cover. The back cover has the slightly matte finish typical of Art Nouveau jewels and has a period “ES” monogram. The bail is fully hallmarked with 18K gold marks and with the maker’s mark (partially obscured).

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” excluding jumpring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

An exceptionally fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a pansy blossom highlighted with enamel. The enamel decoration is absolutely spectacular. Shades of translucent pink, chartreuse and maroon blend to create a very realistic, soft appearance. The flower is centered with an old European cut diamond of very fine quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp and eyelet for a watch hanger. Though unsigned, the brooch was made by Whiteside & Blank, one of the finest Newark makers. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A truly exceptional example of American Art Nouveau enameled gold jewelry, this pendant features a deeply three-dimensional waterlily enameled in translucent lavender. The blossom is surrounded by bright green leaves and another bud about to open. A pair of baroque freshwater pearls flank the blossom, and the whole is presented against a gold frame incorporating whiplash curves and suspending a freshwater dogtooth pearl. The pearls are of exceptional quality, with bright orient in rainbow colors. The pendant is suspended from a leaf-shape plaque. The depth of the design is amazing. The pendant can be removed from the chain and originally had a removable pinstem mechanism so it could be worn as a brooch. The mechanism is now missing, but could easily be recreated by a competent goldsmith. All in all, this is one of the very best Art Nouveau enameled pendants we’ve owned. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America (probably Newark), ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: length of pendant from the top of the leaf element to the bottom of the dogtooth pearl, 2”; width of pendant element, 1-3/16”; chain length, 18”. Weight: 8.2 gr.

An superb 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with an ornate image of a Valkyrie, one of the "Choosers of the Slain" in Norse and Germanic mythology. The image is beautifully detailed with fine facial features, flailing hair and, of course, the winged helmet set with an old European cut diamond for a touch of sparkle. She is depicted in mid-flight with a background of swirling clouds. The interior retains the original frames and covers. The back has a period "CEC" monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Noted for both their beauty and their iron will, the Valkyries were responsible for choosing who would die a hero and who would simply die. Once the heroes were ensconced in the afterlife, the Valkyries provided them with wine, food and various other desirable services for all eternity.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

A gorgeous Art Nouveau festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold. The central floral plaque is delicately enameled in translucent iridescent shades of pink, lemon and green. Small round and baroque seed pearls accent the design. Collet-set deep purple oval cut amethysts flank either side of the blossom and a freshwater pearl drop is suspended from the bottom. A third amethyst is suspended just above the floral plaque. The trace link chain is studded with baroque pearls accenting the places where chain festoons are attached. Tested and guaranteed 14K. Unsigned, but certainly the work of Newark shop such as Larter, Krementz, Bippart, etc.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.11 cts.

An outstanding Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated in with an ornate pond scene incorporating rippling water, waterlilies and cattails under the watchful eye of the “man in the moon” and seed pearl stars. The scene is very original and is beautifully worked. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “GEG”. The interior retains both original frames and one of the glass covers. Marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 7.9 grams.

A magnificent French Art Nouveau 18K gold and diamond slide locket, the front cover featuring a a fierce griffin clutching an old European cut diamond in its mouth. The beast is beautifully chased and engraved with a lot of detail in the feathers and fur. The griffin is presented against an ornately pierced Renaissance style background that would allow small peaks to show through of any portrait or photo enclosed in the locket. In Greek mythology, griffins were the guardians of the most treasured and priceless possessions, and its role on the front of a locket mimics that idea. The diamond is of equally high quality, graded as G color, VVS1 clarity. The bail has partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; a few small pinpoint dings on the back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diam (excluding bail). Weight: 14.6 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .24 ct.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.