Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1002)

High quality 18 karat yellow gold bar bin featuring an elongated center of pierced and milligrained platinum set with an assymetrical arrangement of 15 rose-cut diamonds around a natural pearl. The back retains its original trombone catch and the pinstem is stamped with the French 18 karat gold hallmark.

Origin: France, circa 1930s. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/4" x 7/16". Approximate Weight: .35 carats.

A handsome man's ring worked in 14K yellow gold and featuring a saddle cut lapis cabochon. The mounting is engraved in the angular foliate style typical of Egyptian Revival jewelry of the 1920s. The color of the gold is bright yellow, with perhaps a slight tinge of green, that nicely accents the rich colors of the lapis. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K" and also has an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; nice detail. Dimensions: 7/16" wide, tapering to 1/8" at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 12. Weight: 7.6 gr.

Very delicate 10K yellow gold pin set with a collet-set square-cut synthetic ruby. The linear design and the geometric shape of the stone show the beginnings of Art Deco influence. Similarly, the use of a synthetic stone is common in jewelry of the period. Even makers such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpel used synthetics. Marked "10K".

Origin: America, circa 1935. Condition: excellent, except for a chip on one corner of the stone; all original. Size: 3/8" x 1-1/16".

A lovely Art Deco ring of 10K yellow gold enhanced with a geometric pattern of apple green and black champlevé enamel. The mounting holds a cushion cut synthetic spinel of a pale green color that beautifully accents the enamels. Art Deco enameled rings were popular for a short period around 1930, but are extremely difficult to find now, especially without enamel damage. They are usually set with colored gemstones, often of a synthetic nature, chosen for their color rather than their innate value. The interior of the shank is marked “10K ECCO”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: crown, 9/16” x 1/2". Finger Size: 8. Weight: 3.8 grams.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.

A wonderful Art Deco 14K yellow gold baton-link long chain, studded at intervals with oval moss agate cabochons. The long chain was a traditional Victorian style, but in this case was updated by replacing the usual small links with long baton-style links. The resulting linear look would have been considered much more modern and stylish. The links are interrupted by nine 7.5x9.0mm moss agate cabochons. The gemstones have very nice medium- to dark-green lacy moss-like inclusions against the colorless transparent background. Notice that the stones are set closer together toward the middle of the chain, and farther apart toward the ends. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 28” long. Weight: 18.9 grams.

A handsome man’s 14 yellow gold ring set with a large bloodstone tablet. The dramatically tapered shank is engraved on either side of the stone with a stylized papyrus motif. The bloodstone has a slightly lighter than usual greenish tint that contrasts nicely with its red markings. The interior of the shank is stamped “14Kâ€.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crown, 13/16†x 3/4"; shank tapers from 13/16†to 1/8â€. Finger Size: 10. Weight: 9.0 gr.

An Art Deco pendant or charm displaying four playing cards each with the pip for an ace worked in black or red enamel. Four aces is an unbeatable hand in poker unless an opponent has a flush. The bottom edge of the charm is engraved “Réussité” (“Success”). The charm and the original jump ring are stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16” excluding jump ring
• Weight: 2.2 grams

A classic Art Deco 18K white gold Russian braid chain necklace with opal cabochons and faceted onyx beads sandwiched together into egg-shaped stations along the length. The opals have nice play-of-color with a preponderance of blues and greens. Most station chain necklaces are quite long, but the shorter length of this example makes for a very wearable, delicate look. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925
• Condition: very good, two opals have small flakes on the pointed end visible upon very close inspection
• Dimensions: chain length, 17-1/4”; stations, 3/16” diameter
• Weight: 2.8 grams

A pretty shell cameo of a young woman set in a particularly nice 10K yellow gold frame. The carving is well done, making good use of the color subtleties in the shell. The rose motif of the frame echoes the flowers carved into the cameo. The back retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The reverse is stamped with the “ESEMCO” mark for Shiman Jewelry Co. and also "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no cracking. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-15/16” (excluding bail). Weight: 8.5 gr.

A magnificent pair of Art Deco 18K white gold earrings set with diamonds and Burma rubies. The oval brilliant cut rubies have pure, vivid red color and good clarity. The do not show indication of heat or other enhancement. The rubies are surrounded by a border of round diamonds intersected by a double band of diamonds on either side of the ruby. These hang freely from a surmount fashioned by a trilliant cut diamond suspending round diamonds set into a triangular plaque echoing the shape of the trilliants. The mountings have a double gallery and the backs surrounding the ruby drops are engraved in a geometric pattern. The .21-ct trilliants are graded as E color, SI1 clarity and the smaller diamonds are G-H color, SI1-I1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

NOTE: We are presenting the matching ring (Item #1306951).

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: length, 1-3/8"; maximum width, 1/2". Weight: 4.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 2.5 cts; diamond, 1.74 cts.

A finely crafted late Art Nouveau 18K gold ring in the form of a lion’s head clasping an old European cut diamond in its jaws. The engraving is very well done and displays great detail that extends halfway around the shank. The diamond is graded as H/VS1. The interior of the shank is engraved “P.R. 10 Avril 1924.” The ring is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• France, 1924
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide at front, tapering to 3/16” at back
• Finger Size: 10-12
• Weight: 13.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 carat

A fabulous Art Nouveau 14K gold ring set with a round brilliant cut peridot flanked by seed pearls. The gem is set in a distinctly Gothic revival quatrefoil design. The gold surfaces are hand-finished and have a matte surface typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The peridot has excellent color and clarity that contrasts beautifully with the bright white pearls. Converted from a stickpin, the piece is now a gorgeous ring. The crown retains the original maker's mark for Shanley Jewelry Company, of the leading Art Nouveau jewelers in the U.S.

• America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from a stickpin.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 5/8".
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Peridot Weight: 1.61 carats.

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, amethyst and pearl ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The crown is fashioned as a cluster of oak leaves and acorns surrounding two round amethysts and two half-pearls in collet settings. The amethysts are graded as medium-dark strong purple (P 6/6); with excellent cut and Type I eye-clean clarity. The pearls have nice luster and creamy body color.

Edward Everette Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw before opening is own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but his mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stasys at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.88 cts.

A lovely 14K gold pendant designed as a young woman's face captured in a crescent moon. She wears a large brimmed bucket hat with trailing ribbons in the style of the early 20s. In Victorian jewelry symbology, the crescent moon was a reminder of the moon goddess Selene (AKA Luna) and was often used to signal female empowerment. The reverse is marked "14K."

• America, ca. 1920
• Excellent condition; converted from an antique stickpin
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" excluding bail
• 2.7 grams

A very pretty 14K yellow gold ring bezel-set with an oval gold quartz stone flanked by shoulders set with fused natural 24K gold nuggets. The quartz has good color and is generously streaked with gold in well-balanced pattern. Gold quartz jewelry originally became fashionable during the California gold rush and then again when gold was discovered in Alaska just before the turn of the 20th century. The shank is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A lovely 14K gold Art Nouveau pin in the form of a bouquet of violets by Krementz. Three flowers on long golden stems are accented with a pair of leaves decorated with iridescent translucent enamel. Each flower comprises five dark purple enameled petals surrounding a seed pearl. In the Victorian flower language, the violet represented modesty. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, marked 14K and bearing Krementz's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1920
• ConditionL excellent
• Dimensions: 1-13/16" x 7/8"
• Weight: 4.5 grams

A lovely and very unusual 18K yellow gold, rock crystal, mother of pearl and aventurine glass ("goldstone") locket. The locket is constructed as a beveled oval frame of aventuring enclosing a pair of rock crystal windows, one of which opens to allow access to the inside of the locket. A mother-of-pearl plaque can be left in place so two photos can be displayed or removed so the locket can hold a lock of hair or a pressed flower. This is the only aventurine locket we have seen. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold import marks.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 8.4 grams.