Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1002)

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold fob seal, the surfaces ornately decorated in a repousse pattern of flowers and foliage. Fobs in this design are more typically English than American. It is very generously sized to make an impression when being worn. The citrine plaque is engraved with the monogram “WKV”, so we’ll just assume that was for William K Vanderbilt (LOL!) The ring is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1840
• Dimensions: 1” x 7/8” x 1-1/2” (excluding ring)
• Weight: 19.5 grams

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with with oval brilliant-cut amethysts set in simple 10K yellow gold collets. The amethysts have nicely saturated, even color that would look particularly good with a white or light blue cuff. The faces are fairly large, so they are connected with a removable s-link for ease in putting them through a buttonhole. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: probably America, ca. 1870.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 11/16" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 19/32" x 7/16".
• Weight: 11.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 29.8 carats

An outstanding late Victorian tiger's claw brooch set in 18K yellow gold and accented with blue sapphires. Tiger claws became popular for use in jewelry following Queen Victoria's proclamation as Empress of India. Big-game hunters often brought back souvenirs of their travels and commissioned jewelry for their friends and family. Usually, the claws are set simply in gold or have an ornate Indian-style mounting, but the use of colored gemstones is extremely rare. The sapphires are of the finest quality, vividly saturated, medium tone, pure blue in color and VSI in clarity. The brooch retains its original extended pinstem. The pin could also be worn as a pendant with the addition of a simple folding bail. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Origin: probably American, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16"� long x 15/16" wide�. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.83 cts.

A large friendship token pendant or charm featuring a hand holding a gem-set bouquet. The design is presented against a stippled background outlined with an engraved border. The bouquet is set with a cabochon ruby, an emerald cut emerald and a brilliant cut sapphire. Jewelry featuring a hand and flower motif were usually given as tokens of affection or friendship in the Victorian era. The back is stamped “18K.”

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .08 carat; emerald, .05 carat; sapphire, .05 carat.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with Persian turquoise cabochons. The stones are nicely matched for color. The gold surface is stippled and engraved in a rayed pattern with a foliate border. The engraving on the back takes design elements from the front. The interior has a glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The original bail, also engraved and set with a turquoise cabochon, is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A wonderful Victorian equestrian pin in the form of a horseshoe nail enhanced with a cluster of small natural pearls, sapphires, and rubies. Nails were a popular motif in Victorian jewelry, and the red, white, and blue color scheme had momentary popularity around the time of the American centennial in 1876. This piece is a pin, but can easily be worn as a pendant suspended from a chain without alteration. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1876
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 2-1/8” long
• Weight: 5.6 grams

A stunning pair of late Victorian earrings in 18K yellow gold with diamonds, coral and onyx. The coral bead surmounts are punctuated with small collet-set diamonds and suspend gold buttercup settings, the tips accented with black enamel and holding oval cushion-cut diamonds, further suspending an enameled gold belt pave-set with rose-cut diamonds and flanked by a trio of red coral teardrops topped with small onyx beads. Everything about these earrings is of the very best quality. The diamonds are bright and well-cut, the gold settings are inventive, and the coral has the wonderful reddish hue of coral from the Italian coast near Naples. The earrings have threaded posts. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/4” long. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .54 carat. Weight: 11.0 grams.

An outstanding Victorian Arts & Crafts long chain fashioned from a series of oval cut colored gemstones in graduating sizes, each bezel-set in 14K yellow gold and joined to one another with very delicate handmade gold links. The selection of stones includes amethyst, citrine, topaz, aquamarine, almandine garnet, hessonite grosularite garnet, pink tourmaline, green tourmaline, and smoky quartz. The chain is an amazing 78 inches (6-1/2 feet) long and can be worn draped around the neck at various lengths. Long chains without clasps and are difficult to wear around the wrist, but this example can be wound about ten times around the wrist for wear as a stunning bracelet. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 78 inches long. Weight: 31.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 94.6 cts.

A fine Victorian 14K gold and platinum locket ornately decorated in the Etruscan style with a lily pond scene. The scene includes rose gold cattails, green gold lily pads, and platinum lily blossoms. The remainder of the locket is enanced with ropetwists, wire work, and appliques. The locket opens at the back to reveal a photo compartment. The locket is completed iwth its original matching bail.

• Origin: America, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent; a few minor pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 2-3/16" (including bail)
• Weight: 14.6 grams

An intricately designed 14K yellow gold chain comprised of a double row of reeded oval links enhanced at regular intervals with engraved acanthus leaf plaques. The chain is from the late Georgian or early Victorian period, and is completely handmade. The clasp is a large bolt, reeded to match the links. The individual links are open enough that the chain could be used to hang charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1845
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 20-1/2" long; 7/16" wide
• Weight: 28.1 grams

A stunning 18K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring dozens of ornately intertwined swags and drops studded with small natural pearls and Mediterranean coral beads. The necklace is finished with an Etruscan style box clasp of the sort associated with Luigi Pallotti e Fratelli, one of the most exclusive jewelers in late 19th century Venice. This particular style of festoon necklace is particularly associated with his work. Pallotti exhibited successfully at the World' Colombian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. The clasp is stamped with Venetian gold marks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 14-1/2"; length of center drop, 2-1/2". Weight: 22.8 grams.

A lovely Victorian pendant in 10K yellow gold set with a round brilliant cut amethyst at the center, surrounded by seed pearls in an ornate starburst pattern. The rays of the star are separated by fleurs-de-lys. The amethyst has nice medium violet color with reddish overtones. The pendant also has a pinstem so that the piece can be worn as an elegant brooch. Tested and guaranteed 10K. NOTE: The chain is not included in the purchase price, but we do have chains available.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: 15/16" diameter.
• Weight: 3.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .28 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

An elegant Victorian bangle bracelet, the front set with a triple row of 76 natural seed pearls that splay open toward the center which is set with a floret of old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have cream body color and fine luster and are perfectly matched. The diamonds are F/G color and VVS2 clarity. The center diamond is .34 ct and the others are .06 ct each. The clasp is well-concealed and it is stamped “15 Ct” and also has French import marks.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide tapering to 3/16” at back; circumference 6-1/2”
• Weight: 23.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .82 carat

A wonderful and extremely rare Victorian 15K rose gold brooch set with Scottish agate. The brooch is in the form of the 19th century Prince of Wales’ crown enclosing the traditional feathers in fleur-de-lys arrangement, over a banner with the legend “Ich Dien”. The feathers are set with jasper and bloodstone. The engraved decoration of the gold is first-rate. The back bears a registry mark, dating the brooch to 1891. In 1891, Queen Victoria’s eldest son, the future Edward VII, celebrated the fiftieth anniversary of his investitute as Prince of Wales. Due to his mother’s longevity, however, Edward was the first Prince of Wales to reach that mark. Agate jewelry set in gold is quite uncommon, and this is the only example we’ve found of this particular design. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, 1891. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A stunning early Victorian snake necklace in 18K gold. The body is worked in a graduated series of scaled links terminating in an ornate emerald- and garnet-set head suspending an emerald-set foliate drop. The construction of the snake’s body is very flexible and feels silky like a true snake. The ornate head with repoussé and chased decoration is more fanciful and resembles a Chinese dragon. The eyes are set with bright garnet cabochons and the head features a row of collet-set emerald cut emeralds. The stones have fine bluish green coloring. The head suspends a drop in the form of leafy twigs set with additional emeralds. A box clasp is cleverly hidden in the head for a seamless appearance when being worn. Following Prince Albert’s proposal to Queen Victoria with a snake ring in 1839, a snake grasping its own tail came to represent the seamlessness or eternity of love and became wildly popular in jewelry. The necklace is presented in its original burgundy velvet, silk and leather fitted case. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca 1840
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: overall length, 19-1/4”; length when clasped, 16-1/2”; drop length, 1-1/4”
• Weight: 32.5 grams
• Approximate Total Emerald Weight: 3.77 carats

An exceptional pair of Victorian carved ivory and 9K yellow gold earrings. The earrings are fashioned as exquisitely detailed cherubs, each suspending three elongated drops. The drops are arranged in the typical girandole style with the central piece hanging lower than the outer elements. The cherubs are fully three-dimensional and the feathered carving on the backs is as fine as that on the front. The ivory has a very nice patina. The style and exceptional quality of carving indicates the ivories were likely carved in Italy, whereas the use of 9K gold suggests they were mounted as jewelry in England. Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter can be seen wearing an ivory cherub brooch quite similar to these in one of her portraits. The girandole style emerged in French jewelry in the early 1700s and remained popular throughout the century. The ornate style returned to popularity during the Rococo Revival around 1870. The wires are stamped with French import marks for 9K. Victorian ivory earrings of this quality are quite uncommon, and we were fortunate to acquire two exceptional pairs from the same source.

Origin: Italy/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracking. Size: length from top of wire, 2-3/4”; length from top of cherub, 2-1/8”; width, 1-1/16”.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to California.

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold fancy watch chain featuring large links that we’d now call “Gucci links” in rose gold, alternating with smaller connector links in a slightly more yellow shade. Each of the large links is pierced with a star motif and the edges are enhanced with a fluted and ribbed pattern. The smaller links are chased in a floral pattern. The chain is finished with a ring and t-bar closure. The chain has a very substantial, “chunky” appearance, but is of moderate weight and comfortable for regular wear. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: large link width, 13/32”; overall length, 18”.
• Weight: 38.4 grams.

A lovely late Victorian brooch featuring an oval-cut amethyst flanked by a pair of 7mm half-pearls surrounded by rose-cut and old-mine cut diamonds. The amethyst has nice coloring and clarity that contrasts nicely with the creamy color and soft luster of the pearls. The tiny diamonds add just a hint of sparkle. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-9/16” x 5/8”. Weight: 7.75 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 4.85 carats; diamond, .25 carat.