Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1021)

Three glowing opals punctuate each this pair of Art Nouveau 14K gold dress clips. Triangular in shape, the clips are entirely hand-pierced and chased in a swirling foliate pattern. The leaves extend beyond the triangular borders to create a slightly assymetrical shape. The opals are much more attractive in person than in the photos, and have fine play of green, blue, orange and red color, evenly spread over the gemstones. Clips of this sort would have originally been worn on either side of a neckline, on a fur, or attached to shoes. They can still be worn those ways, of course, but they're terribly versatile and could be worn on jacket or coat lapels, clipped onto a grosgrain or velvet ribbon and worn as a choker, and dangling from a chain. The clips have a a jeweler's inventory number, but no maker's mark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1915.
• Excellent condition; all original.
• 1 1/4" x 1 1/4".
• 21.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Opal Weight: 2.22 carats.

A beautifully-detailed semi-nude woman peeks out from the center of a pink enameled flower in this Art Nouveau pendant and brooch. Her hair is adorned with a diamond-centered white enameled flower and she wears a diamond necklace. The background flower petal are worked in translucent iridescent enamels in shades of pink fading to cream at the edges. The back of the pendant retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark "7VI".

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage except perhaps a small nick to one of the white flower petals visible only under magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Weight: 5.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A lovely small locked in the form of a four-leaf clover worked in 18K yellow gold. One petal is set with a round ruby. Each of the leaves is shaped in an exaggerated heart form, perhaps to suggest the beloved contents of the interior. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers, as well as photos of the original owner’s young husband and little girl in period clothing. The locket and jump ring are both stamped with French gold marks. Interestingly, the back of the jump ring is engraved “2016,” perhaps as a reference to when the locket was passed along to another generation.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 13/16” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 7.1 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .14 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin/pendant formed as a pair of enameled flowers with foliage against an ornate asymmetrically scrolled pearl-set background. The flowers appear to be apple blossoms and are beautifully enameled in iridescent shades of yellow and rose. The smaller flower is centered with a small old European cut diamond. The other flower and the scrolled background is set with seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp as well as a folding bale to the piece can be worn as either a pin or a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; all origina; no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 inches. Weight: 6.8 grams.

An exquisite openwork pansy brooch in 18K yellow gold topped with platinum. The portions representing the outer edges of the petals are set with 48 rose cut and table cut diamonds (averaging J color and ranging from SI2 to I2 clarity), while the flower is centered with a half-carat old European cut diamond (J/SI2) in a bezel mounting. The pin has an overall sparkly appearance and looks stunning against dark fabric. The back of the setting is stamped with French gold and platinum marks, as well as with the master’s mark for the Bordeaux jeweler Dagens.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; original clasp and pinstem. Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.46 cts.

A sophisticated Edwardian ring featuring a rectangular cabochon of moss agate nestled in a 14K yellow gold filigree mounting. The quality of the piercing is superb. The moss agate is nicely transparent with intense deep green wisps that seem to float in the stone. Moss agate is a rather unusual gemstone selection for this style of setting, but the stone seems to have been a favorite of the designers at Larter, as we have seen several fine examples of its use in unexpected ways. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K" and has Larter's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Dimensions: 17/32" wide at crown, tapering to 1/16" at back of shank
• Finger Size: 6-1/4
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

A beautifully detailed 18K gold tombstone-shaped pendant dedicated to St. George. The front shows George on horseback killing the dragon with his spear. The sun is depicted in the background with a glowing red ruby cabochon. The reverse depicts a fishing boat carrying Jesus and several disciples across the stormy Sea of Galilee, with the Latin motto “In Tempestate Securitas” (“safety in the storm”). St. George medallions do not always include the ship imagery, but when it’s there, the piece was intended to protect against the perils at sea. Generally, St. George is the patron saint of knights, soldiers, scouts, fencers, and archers, but he apparently also had a knack with the plague, leprosy, and venomous snakes.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-1/16” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 14.4 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .05 carat.

An impressive 42-carat citrine centers this elegant pendant. The 14K gold setting features stylized flowers and foliage on each side of the stone. The citrine has very good even brownish-orange color resembling a good topaz. Overall, the impression is “statement piece.” The original bail is stamped “585” for 14K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” wide; 1-15/16” long including bail
• Approximate Citrine Weight: 42.02 carats
• Weight: 17.0 grams

A spectacular 14K gold horsehoe brooch updated as an elegant pendant necklace. The sapphires are very fine quality with bright violet-blue color ad eye-clean clarity. There is no evidence of heat treatment. The sapphires alternate with pearls of similarly fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K. When turned points up, horseshoes collect and capture good luck!

• Origin: America, ca 1920
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-5/8" x 1-7/16"; length, 21-1/4"
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.31 carats
• Weight: 9.4 grams.

Art Nouveau 14K Gold, Mississippi River Pearl & Diamond Pendant/ Pin An elegant Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from elongated Mississippi River pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with an old European cut diamond. The pearls have attractive luster and the diamond is I color and VS2 clarity. The back retains the original folding pendant bail and pinstem/clasp. The back is marked 14K and is stamped with the maker’s mark for Crossman & Co.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” diameter
• Weight: 5.7 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .06 carat

An elegant Edwardian openwork 14K white gold ring set with twenty-one round diamonds graded I color, I1 to SI2 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 5/8". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau honeymoon pin in 14K yellow gold featuring an enameled violet centered with a small old European cut diamond. The petals are are worked in delicate shades of purple, cream marroon and are finished with repousse gold borders frequently sometimes seen in Larter enamels. In the Victorian flower language, the combination of a crescent moon shape with a flower was suggestive of the word "honeymoon." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for a new bride. The back is stamped with Larter's 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16"
• Weight: 2.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .03 carat

An elegant pair of late Edwardian drop earrings worked in 10K white gold. Each round drop is set with a coral bead at the center and the gold is studded with tiny rose cut diamonds. The surmounts are also set with diamonds. The brightness of the coral hints at the importance that color would take on as jewelry moved into the Art Deco period. Both the front and back of the earrings is enhanced with an intricate pierced design. The earrings hang freely and have a great deal of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16” wide, 1-1/2” long from top of wire. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

A lovely late Victorian 18K yellow gold locket, the cover enhanced with repousse decoration featuring a pair of race horse heads encircled by a wreath of roses. The wreath is tied at the back with a ribbon edged in milgrained platinum and studded with four small rosecut diamonds. The detailing of the design is very nice. The back of the locket has an ornate “SC” or “CS” monogram. The interior retains its original gold frames. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-3/16” diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A lovely, colorful Art Nouveau 14K gold, seed pearl and enamel pin in the form of a violet by the Newark firm Crane & Theurer. The flower petals are enameled in cream darking gradually through lilac to deep violet along the edges. Each of the petals is finished with an arc of tiny seed pearls echoing the larger pearl set at the flower's center. The reverse is stamped with the maker's hallmark and "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8".
• Weight: 4.1 gr.

Lovely Edwardian bar pin of 10K white laid over 10K yellow gold, beautifully worked in an ornate filigree and millegrained pattern, centering a 1-pt. round brilliant-cut diamond. The back is marked "10K" and also has a maker's mark.

Origin: America, circa 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/32" long.

A wonderfully naughty Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold ring depicting a couple engaged in mutual oral stimulation. Victorian and Edwardian erotic jewelry is extremely rare, having been made only for the daring few who were willing to wear such things in public. Like other pieces of erotica, the designer was charged with making the object look as innocent as possible, only revealing its true nature upon very careful and prolonged inspection. Upon first examination, this ring appears to be a typical sinuous floral Art Nouveau design. Looking closely however, the design reveals a man and woman amorously entwined. Even the back of the shank is decorated with a pair of somewhat cleverly concealed penises. The ring is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, very little wear. Size: 1/2" wide. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 7.5 grams.

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

A perfect way to wear a little of the Gilded Age right on your own hand! The lovely navette shape is slimming on the finger and can even be worn on the middle or index finger. The ring has a delicate appearance but enough length to make a statement. The warm glow of medium-toned center ruby contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the four diamonds (I/SI2) surrounding it. The yelow gold shake is set with a four additional rubies flanking the navette. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/4 (easily sized up or down several notches). Dimensions: 3/4" long. Weight: 4.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, .40 ct.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising individual links fashioned as abstract bellflowers, each set with an oval cabochon rhodolite garnet. Each link is further enhanced with appliques to suggest leaves, tendrils and seed pods. The overall design is very much in the Jensen expression of Skonvirke. The rhodolite garnets have lovely purple coloring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: possibly Denmark, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4†wide; 8†long. Weight: 29.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.95 cts.

A fine 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with deep translucent guilloche enamel over an engine-turned background surrounded by a reeded border enameled in opaque white. The front is centered with an old mine cut diamond. The trefoil-shaped bail is an especially nice touch. The interior retains the original frame insert. The bail is marked for 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

NOTE: This locket was very difficult to photograph. The purple enamel is deeply saturated and looks quite dark viewed directly. When the light strikes at an angle, however, the translucency of the purple comes shining through to show the underlying enraving.

• America, ca. 1910
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage; no dings; no monogram
• Dimensions: 1 1/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Weight: 6.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .04 carat

An elegant Edwardian heart-shaped locket worked in 18K yellow gold. The front cover is enhanced with a small rose cut diamond and three small no-heat rubies set in a stylized floral pattern with engraved stems. The decoration is reminiscent of Imperial Russian jewels of the era, but the locket bears French gold hallmarks and is marked “Déposé” indicating that the design had a copyright of sorts. The edges of both the front a back covers are finished with banded reeding décor. The chain is old, possibly original, but is gold-filled.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, a couple of tiny pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16” excluding jump ring; chain, 18” long
• Weight: 2.1 grams (without chain)

A sophisticated 18K gold necklace, the baton links enhanced with black and white en plein enamel. The batons are separated by seed pearls that reappear as a band across the middle of the teardrop-shaped onyx pendant. The pendant hangs from the clasp, so the necklace can be worn alone or with the pendant. Both the clasp and the mounting of the pendant are stamped with French 18K hallmarks and an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: very good, some enamel nicks on the baton links visible with a loupe, but none show the underlying gold
• Dimensions: chain length, 20”; pendant length, 1-1/16”
• Weight: 14.9 grams

Phenomenally impressive late Edwardian bar pin featuring 54 diamonds set in 18K white gold. The diamonds are cut in rose-cut (smallest stones) and old-European and brilliant cuts (larger stones). The color and clarity is outstanding. The larger stones are estimated at VVS1 clarity and G color. The larger stones are .45, .38, and .38 carats. The medium-sized stones are all between .11 and .18 carats. The total weight is 2.16 carats. The setting is quite simple, pointing toward Art Deco design. The brooch retains its original pinstem trombone catch. The back is marked "750" and has a unidentified jeweler's mark "M".

Origin: Europe, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4" long, 3/8" wide. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.16 carats.

A sweet good luck charm in the form of a 14K gold wishbone entwined with a branch of bright blue enameled forget-me-nots. In Victorian flower language, forget-me-nots represented remembrance. Combined with the wishbone, a piece such of this might have been given as a farewell gift. Stamped with the maker's mark for Winthrop Manufacturing Co (Attleboro, MA).

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: perfect enamel; original pinstem and clasp were removed and replaced with a hidden bail by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1/2".
• Weight:2.7 grams.

A pretty Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold locket by Elias Rees & Son, depicting a young woman surrounded by a bower of flowers. The back cover bears a period monogram, nicely worked in ornate Art Nouveau script. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers on both sides and is hallmarked by Rees.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; nice detail. Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 5.8 gr.

A lovely maiden surrounded by a bower of daisies is featured in this Art Nouveau 10K gold pendant/watch pin. In Victorian flower language, the daisy represented "innocence." The design is nicely detailed. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: sharp detail; pinstem, clasp and watch hook are original; hidden bail was added by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 7/8" diameter.
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

An elegant 14K yellow gold gold bracelet constructed with modified gatelinks, each enhanced with engraved details. The five center links are set with round sapphires. The sapphires have intense coloring and excellent clarity. The interior is stamped "14K" and also has Crane & Theurer's maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/8" wide; 7-1/4" long
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .60 carat

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum bangle bracelet, the top set with four sets of three round brilliant sapphires separated by rows of round single-cut diamonds. The sapphires are superb quality, with medium-tone, vivid violetish blue color in sunlight and a nearly pure violet color in incandescent light. The stones are eye-clean and are perfectly matched. Color-change sapphires are rather uncommon and matched stones such as these are very rare. The diamonds have bright color and SI clarity. The sapphires and diamonds are in a millegrained platinum setting with a delicately pierced gallery along the sides. The bracelet has an unidentified maker’s mark (a pair of acorns). Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/16” wide; 6-1/4” circumference. Weight: 8.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; color-change sapphire, 4.68 cts.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet designed as a chain of daisies. Each flower is centered by a mine cut diamond. Each plaque is pierced to delineate individual flower petals and the back of each plqaue is engraved in a matching pattern. The reverse engraving is a technique sometimes seen on very high-end French jewels of the period, but rarely on American pieces. The diamonds have bright color (G/H) and SI1 to I1 clarity. The back of the clasp is engraved with the date March 3, 1910.

Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

Very nice Victorian 14 karat yellow gold stickpin in the shape of a horseshoe, set with nine seed pearls. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" long.

A nice Art Deco 14K white gold bar link chain. The bars alternate with groups of three round links. The bars reflect light, so the chain has a pleasant shimmer. The clasp is marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent
• Length: 21-3/4"
• Weight: 3.1 grams

Elegant pair of screwback earrings, each featuring three outstanding 6-mm pearls clusted around small white zircons. The pearls are of exceptional quality--quite similar to Mikimoto. The body color is a bright white with silvery overtones. The skins are smooth and the lustre is very nice. The white zircons have the appearance of diamonds and were often used as diamond substitutes in the first half of the 20th century. The backs are marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 6.5 grams.

This classic U.S. Navy ring is something of an oddity—it was custom-made in France! The ring is an older style with shoulders depicing an American eagle surmounting a stars and stripes shield over the letters “USN”. The crown is set with an oval cabochon of almandine garnet surrounded by the words “United States Navy,” the words separated by stars. The garnet has an intense deep red color that contrasts handsomely with the gold. The design elements of the ring suggest an early 20th century period. The shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an unidentified French goldsmith’s mark. The ring is hand-engraved, so was likely a custom order by an American gentleman from a Parisian jeweler.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; light wear consistent with age, but the design is clear.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the shank.
• Finger Size: 11-1/4.
• Weight: 10.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.65 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant ("medille d'amour") with a rebus spelling out "Plus qu'hier, moins que demain" ("More than yesterday, less than tomorrow") a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of "Cyrano de Bergerac") in 1889. The word "plus" is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamonds and the word "moins" is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is of better than average quality, with intricate engraving on the background and a lovely engraved floral border. The oval shape is also less common the the usual circle. The use of rose cut diamonds, synthetic rubies and Augis' signature indicates that this is an earlier example. The smaller size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or for wear on a charm bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis' maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 7/8" (from top of bail).