Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A very rare 18K yellow gold ring set with a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design has an overall trapezoidal shape. The shank is doubled at the back and then comes together into a single head at the front, where it grasps a single black pearl. The 6mm pearl has nice lustre and even, natural coloring. The back of the shank is fully stamped with the French goldsmith's mark and "18K". The interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. The squared-off outline and simple placement of a single pearl is very typical of Dinh Van's work for Cardin, yet this is the first example we've seen of this design. One of his designs for Cardin is included in the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and is published in numerous books.

Origin: France, ca. 1966. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" wide at front, 1/4" wide at back. Weight: 5.7 grams.

A beautiful pair of matte-finished 18K yellow gold earrings from Judith Ripka’s high-end collection. Each oval cushion-shaped earring is highlighted with a pair of pave-set diamond hearts flanked by rows of beading and rope motifs. The diamonds are G/H color and VS1 clarity. The backs of the earrings have hooks so that gemstone pendants can be added—perhaps pearl drops or even larger diamond or colored stone solitaires. The backs retain the original posts and omega clips. Each earring is marked “Judith Ripka 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but similar earrings in the 2010 collection retail at approximately $2000.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in Barry Kieselstein-Cord’s classic “Caviar” pattern. Introduced in the early 1980’s, this design takes its name from the row of gold spheres the run through the center of the scroll. The design was used for a several styles of earrings, as well as bracelets and other jewels. These earrings are a smaller style and are more comfortable to wear than many of the other pieces. The omega clips are original, but posts could be added easily. Each earring is signed and dated 1981.

Origin: America, 1981. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 13/16” x 13/16”. Weight: 19.5 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by acclaimed jewelry designer Barry Kieselstein-Cord. The earrings are designed as rectangular plaques centering slightly domed centers surrounded by beaded borders. The surfaces have a hand-finished look and are bloomed for the slightly matte texture characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings have substantial weight. The backs are fully signed and are dated 1986.

• Origin: America, 1986
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 15.5 grams

A pair of 18K yellow gold clip-on earrings in Keiselstein-Cord’s timeless “Rope Twist” design. These earrings were produced in at least two sizes, these being the. The surface is bloomed to create the semi-matte finish characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings are fully marked and dated for 1982, making this among his earliest designs.

• Germany, 1982
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (22 x 22 mm)
• Weight: 35.5 grams

pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Barry Kieselstein-Cord resembling a spiraled seashell. The gold has the softly burnished texture typical of Kieselstein-Cord’s designs in the 1980s. The omega clips are original, but posts could easily be added. Each earring is signed.

Origin: America, ca. 1985. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1/2". Weight: 13.6 grams.

A very good 14K yellow gold brooch featuring an enameled four-leaf clover. The clover's petals are beautifully detailed with enamel decoration and are centered with a prong-set round brilliant cut diamond of very fine quality. The clover is surrounded by a chunky round gold border. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, and is hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; a tiny ding on the outer edge of the circle. Size: 1-11/16" diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .08 carat.

An extraordinary and rare 14K yellow gold bangle bracelet by Krementz adorned with enameled white and pale blue forget-me-nots. Krementz made some of the best Art Nouveau enameled jewelry, and continued producing enamels well into the 20th century. Blue and white forget-me-nots, a particularly popular motif in the early 1900s, frequently appeared in small pins and pendants. This piece, however, is the first bangle bracelet we've seen. Bangle bracelets are notoriously subject to damage and it is amazing that the enamel on this bracelet has survived in mint condition. The enameled flowers are accented with engraved foliage and a stippled background. The interior is hallmarked by Krementz and is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1905.

Condition: Enamel is mint, some scratches on the inside of the gold band.

Size: 1/4" wide; opening, 2-9/16" x 2-1/4"; interior circumference, 7-7/16".

Weight: 9.0 grams.

A pretty vintage 14K yellow gold pin by Krementz featuring a spray of beautifully enameled bleeding hearts, each dangling a small seed pearl. The enameling on the blossoms has a matte effect that mimics the waxing texture of the flower in nature, while the leaves are in Krementz's more typical shaded translucent style. In Victorian flower language, bleeding hearts were used to represent "deepest love." Pins such as this with a delicate enameled flower against a geometric back represent are typical of Krementz's move Art Nouveau into Art Deco and finally Retro. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16" diameter
• Weight: 7.0 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A stunning enameled 14K yellow gold pendant/brooch and matching earrings by Krementz. The flowers and leaves are expertly worked in the iridescent translucent enamel characteristic of the best pieces from Newark. The violets are centered with small pearls. The pendant/brooch is stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: brooch, 1-7/16" x 1-7/16"; earrings, 1-3/8" long from top of wire x 3/4". Weight: pendant/brooch, 9.8 gr; earrings, 6.0 gr

A delicate 14K yellow gold bracelet by Krementz fashioned as a chain of pansy blossoms. Each pansy is centered with a small baroque pearl. Alternating links are in a foliate style and are set with round brilliant cut amethysts. Pansies held special meaning in the Victorian period as flowers of remembrance. The use of purple and white gems mimics the flower’s most classic coloring. The cleverly concealed clasp is marked with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/16” wide, overall length, 7”. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.06 cts.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a crescent moon decorated with blue and white enamel forget-me-nots surrounding an enameled pansy set with a .025-ct round brilliant diamond. The pansy is the more uncommon type where the petals have elegantly-chased decoration. In Victorian flower language, both the pansy and the forget-me-not symbolized “think of me.” When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was “honeymoon,” and these were popular gifts given to new brides by either their grooms or close family.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damange
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 11/16”
• Weight: 2.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 carat

Elegant Edwardian 14K gold brooch in the form of a floral bouquet. The flower petals are enameled in soft iridescent silver and then “jeweled” with a thick application of translucent amethyst enamel. This unusual treatment creates a feeling of depth in the flowers. Each blossom is centered with a natural pearl. The leaves look very much like water lilies foliage and are beautifully decorated with translucent green enamel fading to yellow at the tips. The back retains the original clasp and pinstem marked “14K” and hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A delightful late Victorian 14K yellow gold wishbone pin with a delicately enameled four-leaf clover in the middle. The shamrock's petals are arranged around a small pearl and are finely enhanced with shaded green enamel. The clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 13/16". Weight: 4.2 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold wreath pin by Krementz. The leafy wreath, worked in shaded green enamels is studded with tiny gold berries, four seed pearls and four small old European cut diamonds. The sparkle of the diamonds against the colored enamel is very nice. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, marked with Krementz’ hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900.

Size: 7/8” diameter.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .06 carat.

An exquisite Art Nouveau enameled 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a peacock. The bird is worked in stunningly applied translucent enamels in shades of rose, blue, green, yellow, black and violet. The curling tail feathers are set with seed pearls and body is surrounded by an assymetrical frame set with seed pearls and suspending a small old European cut diamond and an oval brilliant-cut peridot. This is one of the very finest enameled bird brooches we’ve seen. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” x 1-5/8”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .03 carat; peridot, .59 carat.

An extremely fine pair of 18K yellow gold half-hoop earrings channel-set with princess cut diamonds and square cut blue sapphires. Like all of Wayne’s jewelry, the gemstones are of the very top quality. The diamonds are F color and VVS2 clarity. The sapphires are extra-fine quality, with strongly saturated pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The earrings have the original posts with omega backs. Each earring is marked with the model number “4”, the serial number “188156” and “750”. Each is also has Wayne’s signature.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” wide; 3/4” long. Weight: 11.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .8 ct; sapphire, 1.54 cts.

An impressive 42-carat citrine centers this elegant pendant. The 14K gold setting features stylized flowers and foliage on each side of the stone. The citrine has very good even brownish-orange color resembling a good topaz. Overall, the impression is “statement piece.” The original bail is stamped “585” for 14K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” wide; 1-15/16” long including bail
• Approximate Citrine Weight: 42.02 carats
• Weight: 17.0 grams

A pretty late Georgian example of a Halley’s Comet pin worked in 14K (perhaps 15K) yellow gold and featuring a light blue paste stone to represent the comet’s nucleus. The paste is set in an elegant buttercup-type setting accented with an engraved gallery. Blue paste is less common than other colors, and makes a very nice presentation. The comet’s tail depicted in the engraved and voluted gold setting.

In 1705, Edmond Halley correctly predicted the comet’s return in 1758. When it returned again in 1835 (and in 1910), jewelers were ready with fashionable pins to celebrate the comet’s passage.

• Origin: England, ca 1835
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” long
• Weight: 2.9 grams

A pretty Georgian heart pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and featuring a double-cut citrine heart. The gold surfaces are decorated in a repousse floral motif. The citrine is cut with lapidary facets on both sides it looks the same from the back or front. The stone has very pleasant pale yellow coloring. The jump ring is original to the pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca 1820
• Condition: excellent, very light wear on some of the citrine’s facet junctions visible upon close inspection
• Dimension: 1-1/16” x 1-3/4” (including jump ring)
• Approximate Citrine Weight: 17.4 carats
• Weight: 13.7 grams

This classic late Victorian bangle bracelet is set with a row of gorgeous opal cabochons in graduated sizes enhanced with old European cut and single cut diamonds. The opals have superb play of color evenly spread across the stones’ surfaces. Primary colors are blues and greens with shots of orange and red. The interior of the bracelet has a jeweler’s inventory number, but no maker’s mark. It is presented in a fitted box that appears to be original. The interior of the box bears the name Wm Mossman, Jeweller & Goldsmith, 135 Princes St (Edinburgh, Scotland). The clasp is stamped with French import marks. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: Scotland, ca. 1900
• Condition: mint
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide at front; 6-1/8” circumference
• Weight: 17.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 7.36 carats; diamond, .37 carat

A classic coin pendant in a simple 18K gold frame, but featuring a spectacularly rare and beautiful “Franc a cheval” coin from the reign of Jean II “le Bon” (“the Good.”) The coin was minted in Paris for just a little more than three years, December 1360-April 64. The front of the coin depicts the king charging on horseback, wearing full armor and a fleur-de-lis crown and with his broadsword raised. The horse, too, is decked out in armor decorated with fleurs-de-lis. The image is surrounded by a Latin inscription translated as “Jean, by grace of God, King of the Franks.” The obverse features a cross surrounded by fleurs-de-lis, in turn surrounded by the Latin motto, “Christ vanquishes, Christ reigns, Christ commands.” The coin is 24K gold and is mounted in a non-invasive 18K frame. The frame probably dates to the mid-20th century and bears French 18K gold hallmarks. The pendant came from the family that owned the Medieval and Renaissance French coin bracelet in our collection.

Jean ascended to the throne in 1350 at a time when France was suffering from the Black Death and was thirteen years into the Hundred Years’ War with England. He was captured by the Black Prince at the Battle of Poitiers in 1356 and taken to the Tower of London. A treaty with King Edward III promised Jean his freedom if he could pay a ransom equal to three times France’s entire annual revenue. He was granted freedom in exchange for offering his son as a captive while he returned to France to raise the ransom. On December 5, 1360, he issued an order to create an entirely new gold coin to be used for the ransom. The word “franc” meant “freedom,” and thereafter French currency has always been known as the franc. Jean’s son escaped captivity in England in 1363, but in chivalric gesture, the King volunteered to take his place, saying “If good faith were banned from the Earth, it ought to find asylum in the hearts of kings.” He returned to England, where he died the following year.

• Origin: France, 1350-54
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 8.2 grams

A magnificent bracelet comprising seven gold coins spanning the reigns of six Medieval and Renaissance French kings from 1429 to 1610. L to R: (1) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of Henri III, dated 1587; (2) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of Charles IX, dated 1566; (3) écu d’or au soleil du dauphiné from the reign of François I, issued 1515-1528; (4) royal d’or from the reign of Charles VII le Victorieux, issued 1429-1431; (5) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of François I, issued 1515-1519; (6) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of Henri IV, issued 1590-1610; and (7) henri d’or from the reign of Henri II, dated 1559. The larger center coin is 24K gold and the other six are 23K. The coins are mounted, probably around 1900, in simple 18K gold collet settings that do not detract from the beauty of the coins. All of the coins are very near the top rarity ratings for coin collectors, and had they not been set into the bracelet, their current numismatic value would be around $22,000. The pendant came from the family that owned the Medieval French coin pendant in our collection.

Henri III (r 1575-1589) was the last king from the House of Valois. He was bullied by his mother, Catherine de Médicis, tried to marry Queen Elizabeth I despite being openly gay, and was eventually assassinated by a Catholic zealot.

Charles IX (r 1562-1589) was Henri III’s older brother and was also bullied by their mother Catherine with whom he orchestrated the Saint Bartholomew’s Day Massacre that killed 70,000 French Protestants.

François I (r 1515-1547) was France’s Renaissance king, known for building projects such as the Châteaux at Fontainebleau, Amboise, and Chambord, and for bringing Leonardo da Vinci (and the Mona Lisa) to France in the artist’s later years.

Charles VII “le Victorieux” or "le Bien Servi (“the Victorious” or “the Well-Served”) (r 1422-1461) was put on the throne through the efforts of Jeanne d’Arc who helped him win the Hundred Years’ War. The coin was minted right around the same year Jeanne was burned at the stake for witchcraft.

Henri IV “le Grand,” “le Bon Roi,” or “le Vert Galant” (“the Great,” “the Good King,” or “the Green Gallant”) (r 1590-1610) was the first king from the House of Bourbon. Though he was originally a Protestant, he converted to Catholicism to claim the throne, famously remarking “Paris is worth a Mass.” He pardoned all Protestants with the Edict of Nantes and was promptly assassinated by yet another Catholic zealot. He was called “le Vert Galant” because of his prowess with numerous simultaneous mistresses even at what was considered the very advanced age of 56.

Henri II (r 1547-1559) was responsible for bringing the previously mentioned notorious Catherine de Médicis to France as his bride. He created the world’s first patent system for new inventions but spent much of the rest of his time cutting out the tongues of Protestant ministers or burning them at the stake. All three of his sons became Kings of France, including one that Henri married off to Mary, Queen of Scots. He was struck in the eye with a lance during a jousting tournament and died of sepsis and brain damage.

• Origin: France, 1429-1610
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on coins
• Dimensions: 8” long, 1-3/16” maximum width
• Weight: 37.8 grams.

A very pretty pair of Shakudo earrings in the form of partially folded fans. The dark metal surfaces are delicately enhanced with silver cranes amid gold plum blossoms, rocks and tree stumps. The crane was used in Japanese art to symbolize longevity. The fans are suspended from 18K rose gold wires. After the collapse of the feudal system in Japan, the artists who created elaborately decorated swords turned to jewelry as a way to express their creativity. Sometimes shakudo pieces were turned into jewelry with the addition of later mountings, but in this case the earring fittings appear to be original. It is also rather unusual for shakudo jewelry to have gold findings rather than silver.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: maximum width 11/16”; 1-11/16” long to top of earwire.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold earrings in the "Heliocoidal" pattern by lauded designed Michael Good. The earrings are constructed in the anticlastic raising technique in with the piece is formed from a sheet of gold and then twisted along all three dimensions to create an organic shape that Good refers to as "molten energy." Each piece is created entirely by hand and does not employ any machine made parts such as earwires or clasps. Older examples of Good's jewelry is difficult to find. Each earring is marked "750 M Good".

Origin: America, ca. 1987. Size: 2-7/8" long. Weight: 8.2 gr.

A pretty 10K yellow and rose gold half-hoop wedding band, the front decorated with finely engraved roses. The flower petals are worked in rose gold for added contrast and the entire design is recessed to prevent wear to the carving. The interior of the shank is marked "10K" and also has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition:excellent
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide tapering to 1/8" at the back
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Weight: 2.9 grams

A pretty 14K yellow gold brooch designed as a cluster of leaves, each accented with a collet-set round ruby. The leaf surfaces have stippled and Florentine finishes for nice contrast. The back is marked “14K” and also has an illegible maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-7/8” x –1-1/8”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .15 carat
• Weight: 6.0 grams

A striking pair of 18K yellow gold mid-century earrings fashioned as knots of rope-motif gold. Each earring is finished at the top with three round brilliant diamonds and at the bottom with free-hanging tassels ending in round brilliant blue sapphires. The knot design has a very sculptural quality, typical of French jewelry from the early 1950s, while the tassels provide a sense of movement. The diamonds are graded as I/J, SI1 and the sapphires are a nice medium violetish-blue. The omega backs are stamped with French 18K marks.

Ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2-3/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 28.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.44 cts.; diamond, .30 ct.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold bird pin, the body formed from a oval cabochon turquoise, and the head and wings from textured gold. The eye set with a cabochon sapphire surrounded by small single-cut diamonds. The tail feathers are accented diamonds set in white gold feathers. The branch has a single turquoise and diamond flower. The design is clearly a nod to Van Cleef & Arpels' "La Boutique" collection which was inspired by early animated cartoon characters. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-1/4”: Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .75 carat; sapphire, .13 carat; turquoise, 9.10 carats.
• Weight: 18.5 grams.

A very nice 14K yellow gold pendant set with a circle of diamonds around a natural black star sapphire. The cabochon sapphire is very fine quality with excellent asterism (the star-like effect). The diamonds are bead-set in white gold. Exposed areas of gold have a Florentine finish that contrasts nicely with the sparkle of the diamonds and sapphires. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

The 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos is available for an additional $85.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 2.75 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .66 carat; diamond, .2 carat.

A very pretty mid-century wedding band, pierced in an intricate pattern of chapel bells and flowers. The band has nice width and the detail is very crisp. The interior is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/32" wide
• Finger Size: 7-1/2
• Weight: 4.1 grams

A stunning Mikimoto 18K yellow gold ring set with a 10.50 mm South Sea Akoya pearl surrounded by curved rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearl has white body color with slight rose overtones. The nacre has bright luster. The surface is free of blemishes. The diamonds are D/E color and VVS clarity, with good symmetry and polish. The quality of workmanship, materials and overall design are so obviously special, that the ring is immediately identifiable as Mikimoto. The interior of the shank is fully hallmarked for 18K gold and bears Mikimoto’s oyster shell mark. The ring is presented in its original box and is accompanied by its original Mikimoto grading certificate. It is also accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5 (could be enlarged with disturbing the marks). Size: crown, 3/4” wide; 9/16” high. Total Diamond Weight: 1.37 carats.

A classic 14K yellow gold "Tree of Life" pin by Mikimoto. This design is an enduring classic available only from the higher-level Mikimoto boutiques. The pin is set with twelve cultured pearls, ranging in size from 4.89 to 6.79 mm. The pearls are of exceptional AAA quality, with cream body color, rose overtones, a bright luster. The back is marked with Mikimoto's oyster shell signature.

• Japan, circa 2010
• Excellent condition
• 1 1/4" x 1 11/16"
• 8.2 grams

A classic 14K yellow gold “Tree of Life” pin by Mikimoto. This design is an enduring classic available only from the higher-end Mikimoto boutiques. The pin is set with twelve cultured pearls, ranging in size from 3.99 to 5.42mm. The pearls are of exceptional AA quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtones. The luster is very bright and the surfaces are nearly blemish-free. The back is marked 14K and has Mikimoto’s oyster shell signature. At Mikimoto’s Place Vendome boutique in Paris, this pin is currently offered for approximately $1,500. Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.0 gr.

A classic vintage Mikimoto 14K yellow gold pin featuring ten cultured Akoya pearls, ranging in size from 6.25 to 7.58 millimeters. The pearls are estimated at A+ quality, with cream body color and rose overtones, and strong orient. The nacre is thick and lustrous and the surfaces are blemish-free. The back is signed with Mikimoto’s hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-7/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 12.1 grams.

A classic vintage Mikimoto brooch featuring pearls set in 14K yellow gold. The swirled design includes ten pearls of superb quality, estimated at AA quality. The surfaces are smooth, the luster is bright and the body color is cream with rose overtones. The pearls range in size from 5.5 to 7.7 millimeters. The gold “leaves” are pierced to provide a sense of lightness despite the pin’s relatively generous size. The back retains the original typical Mikimoto clasp and is signed with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “K14”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-3/8”.

Elegant signed Mikimoto 14K yellow gold brooch set with a cluster of five pearls. The pearls are of the exceptional quality that only Mikimoto produces--a beautiful luster and very white body color. The back is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca 1970. Condition: excellent, no damage, all original. Size: 1" x 2"; pearls 5-6mm. Weight: 5.0 grams.

An elegant 18K yellow gold, Akoya pearl and diamond heart ring by Mikimoto. The diamond-studded heart is centered with a cluster of three 4.3-4.5mm pearls, graded as extra-fine AAA—the highest possible quality rating. They have fine luster and white body color with rosé overtones. The diamonds are E/VVS. The interior of the shank is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

The ring is accompanied by a 2006 written Bailey, Banks & Biddle appraisal for $2150.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Dimensions: heart, 5/8" x 1/2". Weight: gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

Gorgeous pair of signed Mikimoto 18K yellow gold, pearl and diamond earrings. Each earring features a cluster of five 6.0—6.5 mm pearls, topped with a golden bow and sprinkled with prong-set round brilliant-cut diamonds. The pearls have white body color with strong rosé overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are free of blemishes. The pearls are extra fine AAA—in other words, the absolute finest quality available anywhere in the world. The diamonds are of equally fine quality, rated at E color, VVS clarity. The backs have posts and omega clips. Each earring is marked with Mikimoto’s shell hallmark and “750” for 18K. The earrings are presented in their original Mikimoto hinged box, along with the original Mikimoto gift box.

The earrings are accompanied by an August 2006 written appraisal for $6,500 by Bailey, Banks & Biddle’s Mikimoto specialist appraiser.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/32” x 15/16”. Weight: 16.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 carat.

A magnificent pair of signed Mikimoto earrings featuring 13.75 mm mabe pearls in 18K yellow gold twisted knot settings accented with diamonds. The pearls are of the finest quality, estimated at AA. They have cream body color and extraordinary cream body color with rose overtones and superb luster. The brilliant round-cut diamonds are of similarly fine quality, estimated at VVS clarity and E color. They are bead set in 18K white gold to accent the color. The backs are finished with posts and omega clips. The posts could be easily removed for wear as clips-on earrings without altering the Mikimoto signature. The backs are signed with Mikimoto's oystershell mark flanked by "NY", indicating that they were made for Mikimoto's flagship New York store on 7th Avenue, and "18".

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 23.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.5 carats.

Superb Mikimoto 18K yellow gold and pearl brooch in the shape of a cello. The cello’s body is set with 25 fine AA pearls graduating from 3.8 to 5.2 millimeters, and the tailpiece is studded with three round brilliant-cut diamonds. The f-holes, fingerboard, pegs and scroll are worked in gold and are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. An equally fine brooch in our collection, in the shape of a harp (Item #514948) was appraised in March 2006 by the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

A classic Mikimoto ring featuring a cluster of 6.3mm pearls crowned with a star of six round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The pearls have fine luster, with cream body color and rose overtones, and are graded AA. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s hallmark and for 18K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8” diameter. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 ct.

Superb Mikimoto brooch in the shape of a harp. The harp’s sounding board is set with a row of ten fine AA pearls graduating from 3.3 to 5.8 millimeters, and the strings are studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The neck and column, both worked in gold, are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare, and this example is nearly certainly a custom-made piece. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. The brooch is accompanied by a March 2006 written appraisal from the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/32” x 1-5/32”. Weight: 11.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .12 carat.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold set with cultured pearls by Mikimoto. Each earring features a pair of 7.3mm pearls with very fine luster, blemish-free surfaces and cream body color with rose overtones. The pearls are simply nested in a swirl of gold. The backs are marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr.

A classic 14K yellow gold “Tree of Life” pin by Mikimoto. This design is an enduring classic available only from the higher-end Mikimoto boutiques. The pin is set with twelve cultured pearls, ranging in size from 4.01 to 5.18mm. The pearls are of exceptional AA quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtones. The luster is very bright and the surfaces are nearly blemish-free. The back is marked 14K and has Mikimoto’s oyster shell signature. At Mikimoto’s Place Vendome boutique in Paris, this pin is currently offered for approximately $1,500.

Origin: Japan. Size: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 5.9 gr.

Beautiful Mikimoto 18K yellow gold and pearl brooch. Opposing swirls of gold surround a cluster of five Mikimoto pearls, ranging from 5 to 6 millimeters. The quality of the pearls is excellent (estimated at AA quality), with very high luster and a bright white body color and rosé overtones. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-27/32” x 13/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A very good example of a mid-20th century pearl and jade cluster ring by Ming's of Honolulu. Wook Moon opened his shop in 1940 and specialized in creating interesting designs that combined traditional Hawaiian motifs and gems popular in the South Pacific and Asian communities. This cluster ring features are green, black, white, yellow and red jade spheres nestled among ivory-colored pearls. The jade has good translucency and the pearls have very attractive luster, smooth surfaces and distinct gold overtones. Most rings by Ming's had gold leaves interspersed among the gems, but this example is particularly attractive because there are no leaves--just 22 colored spheres tightly packed into a very large cluster. The back of the ring is constructed with a double shank to provide more stability. The setting is entirely handmade and is stamped "Ming's" and "14K".

Origin: Hawaii, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4 x 1-1/8". Weight: 14.7 grams.

An elegant modernist-style brooch in 14K yellow gold accented with pearls, diamonds and sapphires. The brooch is composed of a pair of gold arcs, one highly-polished and the other textured. The intersection of the arcs is set with a cluster of variously sized cultured pearls interspersed with prong-set round brilliant-cut diamonds and blue sapphires. The pearls range in size from 3.6mm to 6.75 mm, and are of very fine Mikimoto-like quality. The body color is cream with a silvery overtone. The nacre is thick and the surfaces are good. The sapphires and diamonds are also of good quality and nice color. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16” x 1-5/8”. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .06 carat; sapphire, .2 carat.

A nice pair of modernist 14K yellow gold and pearl earrings. 5.2-millimeter pearl studs suspend faceted gold bars that, in turn, suspend open-work gold spheres studded with pearls. Each sphere comprises a dozen 4.9 millimeter cultured pearls of very good quality. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are smooth. Each of the spheres is completed with the addition of prong-set seed pearls. The spheres dangle freely and exhibit lots of movement. During the late 1950s and 1960s, scientific knowledge became an inspiration for jewelry designers who began turning pieces like “Sputnik” rings. The arrangement of the pearls and the underlying gold structure of these earrings is clearly based on atomic-level molecule models. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8” long; 5/8” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A striking modernist 14K yellow gold link bracelet, with enlaced circular and oval links. The interplay of shapes creates a very chic look. It can be worn alone or with a collection of charms. The reverse is stamped for 14K gold and has an indistinct maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7-3/4" long; 5/8" wide. Weight: 25.2 grams.

A handsome and heavy 14K yellow gold ring in a flattened chain link design similar to the classic Gucci “Cuban Link” design. The ring is substantial enough to be worn by a man, but the openness of the design and the split shank makes it equally attractive for a woman. The interior is stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” x 3/4". Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 9.4 grams.

An outstanding 14K yellow gold and pearl ring in a sophisticated modernist the design. The split shank creates a flat crown enclosing a row of three pearls, graduating from 5.3 to 6.6 mm. The quality of the pearls are easily on a par with Mikimoto. The luster is superb, the color is cream with rosé overtones, and the surfaces are smooth. Overall, the quality is estimated at AA. The quality of the mounting itself, is likewise superb. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 3/4" x 7/16". Finger Size: 4-3/4 (could easily be enlarged). Weight: 9.5 grams.

A superb modernist bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with multi-colored gemstones by Bruno Guidi. Guidi was the lead designer and chief goldsmith the the acclaimed Brazilian jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx for more than 30 years. Each piece was created entirely by hand starting from a piece of gold, without the aid of any molds or pre-made elements. In this bracelet, each of the ten links features a colorful cabochon gemstone native to Brazil—amethyst; citrine; moonstone; and blue, pink and green tourmaline. The links are individually hinged so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable. The clasp is stamped "Brazil 18J Bruno Guidi."

After Burle Marx's death in 1972, Bruno Guidi and his brother Flavio continued working for a few years, making many of the designs they had originally created for Burle Marx.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 6-1/2" long. Weight: 41.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.7 cts.

A wonderfully detailed mallard duck, worked in multicolored 15K gold and green enamel flies across the finger in this Edwardian stickpin conversion ring. The feathers are beautifully worked in yellow, rose and green gold as well as a touch of platinum. The shank is 14K.

• Original stickpin, circa 1900
• Excellent condition
• 13/16" x 1/2"
• Size 7
• 2.3 grams

A lovely sentimental jewel by the esteemed London jeweler Murrle, Bennet & Co. featuring a heart-shaped citrine surmounted by a crown and a scrolling frame set with seed pearls. In Victorian symbology, a heart topped with a single crown conveyed the sentiment “ruler of my heart.” The citrine has very nice pure yellow coloring, with just a hint of orange. It would be very easy to add a small hidden ring at either end of the pin, so it can be worn from a chain. Murrle, Bennet & Co. was a leading jeweler, often collaborating with Liberty & Co. The pin is stamped “15Ct” and also has Murrle, Bennett’s hallmark.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 5.39 carats

A stunning mid-19th century brooch featuring a pansy, the lower petals set with rose cut diamonds and the upper petals with buff-cut amethysts of a deep violet hue. The colorful flower is simply presented against a plain gold background. In Victorian flower language, the pansy represented the sentiment "Think of me" and jewels with pansies were often given as love tokens or going away gifts. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the back. The original clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .36 carat; amethyst, 4.5 carats.

An impressive 18K yellow gold hinged bangle, the front set with a cabochon emerald surrounded by old mine cut and rose cut diamonds arranged in a floral motif. The larger diamonds are in buttercup settings that add more depth to the design. The emerald has good color with very light treatment and is probably of Brazilian origin. The back side of the bracelet is pierced to retain a feeling of lightness. The hinged opening and oval shape makes the bracelet comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: interior circumference, 6-11/16”; width, 1-3/16” at front tapering to 3/8” at back
• Weight: 30.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, 2.15 carats; diamond, 1.3 carats

A beautiful enameled oval locket in 18K gold, the cover decorated with a wreath of blue enameled forget-me-nots, each centered with a small rose cut diamond, against a black background. The design is encircled with additional black taille d’epargne enameling. The back is also decorated with blue forget-me-nots surrounded with taille d’epargne enameling and has a shield-shaped reserve that was never monogrammed. In Victorian floriography (the "language of flowers") forget-me-nots represented faithfulness, true love, and remembrance. The exposed gold surfaces on both the front and back are enhanced with engraved and stippled decoration. The interior retains the original glass covers and photos of two 19th century gentlemen. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.Origin: France, ca. 1855

Condition: excellent, less than 5% loss to taille d’epargne enamel, mostly on the back

Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)

Weight: 13.2 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat

A handsome griffin with back-stretched wings, a lion’s head and a curling serpent’s tail grasps an old mine cut diamond in this 19th century French brooch and necklace slide. Interestingly, the creature’s tongue is licking the diamond. The eye is set with a small faceted ruby. The back retains the original pin stem and a hinged clasp so the griffin can be attached to a chain. The hinged clasp is marked “Déposé” meaning the griffin was a patented design. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 3/4”
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .12 carat
• Weight: 4.7 grams