Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1000)

A delightful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold circle pin, the center set with an enameled trillium blossom. The petals are beautifully enameled in translucent shades of ivory and green. The gold surface below the enamel is intricately engraved. The blossom is centered by a pale coral bead. The periphery of the circle brooch is set with small seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked 14K and bearing the hallmark for Bippart, Griscomb & Osborn.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, the swivel bale has been removed but can be replaced with no solder work necessary. Size: 31/32" diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau Krementz 14K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring pear-shaped amethyst drops and small natural pearls enhanced with swags of gold links. Each of the amethysts hangs from a gold trumpet flower mounting that echos the central gold plaque. The gold surfaces are worked in the slightly matte Russian finish popular in high quality Art Nouveau jewels. The clasp and the back of the central plaque are marked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; the chain has been lengthened from the original 14" to its current 16.5"; the extension is made so the necklace can also be worn at a 15.25" length. Dimensions: length of central drop from the plaque, 1-1/4". Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 10.51 carats.

A nice pair of vintage “Sputnik” earrings set with citrines. This style was popularized by H. Stern in the 1950s as a way to show of the company’s unparalleled access to the world’s finest colored gemstones. The design eventually became known as “Sputnik” because of the perceived resemblance to the Soviet satellite active during the early years of the space race. Generally, Sputnik pieces were set with multi-colored stones, but occasionally a piece turns up set only with one stone, as in this case. The citrines have medium-dark, strongly saturated yellowish-orange color that contrasts beautifully with the more yellowish color of the gold mountings. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.92 carats. 15/16" in diameter.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets from the "Cometes" line by Chanel Haute Joaillerie. The bracelets are designed as simple band of channel-set brilliant round diamonds punctuated at regular intervals with 5-armed stars, each bead-set with a brilliant round diamond. Though the bracelets appear to be solid, each of the sections is hinged at the star, so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable to wear. The clasps are hidden beneath one of the stars. Each bracelet comprises 72 diamonds of exceptional quality, with F/G color and VVS clarity. The total carat weight of each bracelet is approximately 3.5 carats. Each bracelet is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Chanel." Each is also marked with its unique serial number.

Chanel's fine jewelry is sold in only a few of the company's major boutiques (Paris, New York, etc.) and is never sold at any other retailer. These bracelets are accompanied by a letter on Chanel's letterhead dated May 6, 2009 indicating a replacement value of $19,700 each. The letter includes the information that the bracelets were originally purchased from the New York boutique in 2007 and the serial numbers noted in the letter match those on the bracelets.

Stars were one of Coco Chanel's favorite motifs and she used them in the very first piece of fine jewelry she designed for herself in 1932. Chanel launched its fine jewelry collection in 2003 with the "Cometes" line which uses five-armed stars in endless varieties.

Origin: France, 2007. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: interior opening, 2-3/16" x 1-3/4"; width, 5/16", interior circumference, 6-3/16". Weight: pair, 48.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.00 carats (pair).

NOTE: Though they look wonderful worn together, we will consider selling the bracelets separately.

A beautiful pair of 14K yellow gold double curb link bracelets. The links are enhanced with ornate repousse decoration but could be worn inside out when a smoother look is called for. The clasp of each bracelet is stamped with Viennese 14K gold marks used 1872-1902. The bracelets are priced as a pair, but are available separately.

• Origin: Austro-Hungarian Empire, 1872-1902
• Condition: excellent, no dings
• Dimensions: 7-3/4” long; 1/2” wide
• Weight: 47.3 grams

A marvelous pair of Retro Moderne 18K yellow gold dress clips formed as a bouquet of diamond-studded platinum flowers, the stems tied with a ribbon set with calibre-cut rubies, all against a scrolled gold background. Buds represented by diamonds set in platinum and rubies set in gold are scattered around the flowers. The design is quite sophisticated and the stones are of very nice quality. The clips are perfectly sized—one worn alone isn’t so small that it gets lost, but the two worn together aren’t overwhelming, either. The pair can be worn on jacket lapels or on either side of a dress neckline. The backs retain the original hinged double-prong coat clip and anchor pin often seen on better French jewelry of the period. A good jeweler could convert the clips to be worn as either pierced or clip-back earrings. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1940.

Condition: excellent, all original.

Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4".

Weight: 16.5 grams.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .9 carat; ruby, .6 carat.

A very fine matched pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets presented in their original fitted box. Each bracelet is fashioned with a buckle design and accented with ornate engraved and basse taille enamel decoration in a foral pattern. The edges of the bangles have bright cut engraving that lends a little glitter. The bracelets are generously sized with 3/4" width.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: the exterior of both bangles are in mint condition with absolutely no enamel damage or dings; the interiors of both have a very few, shallow pinpoints; one bracelet retains the original patented safety mechanism (dated 1870), while the other has been replaced with a safety chain; the original fitted case shows considerable wear. Size: 3/4” wide; interior opening, 2-1/8” x 1-11/16”. Weight: 68.4 grams.

An exceptionally fine Pampillonia 18K gold brooch in the form of a running thoroughbred horse mounted by a jockey. The workmanship is simply outstanding. Every detail of the horse's flying tail and the musculature underlying the coat are beautifully worked. The folds and wrinkles of the jockey's silks are equally detailed. The horse's eye is set with a small round ruby and the hoof of a hind leg touches on a .18-carat round brilliant cut diamond, graded as J color, SI2 clarity. The use of a yellow-green gold is an inspired choice that somehow keeps the rather heavy brooch from appearing overwhelming. The pin is unsigned, but is definitely by Pampillonia. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 2010
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-3/8"
• Weight: 30.8 grams

A classic target-style ring featuring a luminous pearl surrounded by a ring of calibre-cut synthetic rubies set in an 18K yellow gold setting. Originally a stick pin, this ring was created with the addition of an 18K shank. The rubies are synthetic—as they often were in the Art Deco period—are a beautiful deep red color that nicely accents the creamy white pearl.

• Origin: French stick pin, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from an Art Deco stick pin.
• Dimensions: crown, 11/32" diameter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/4".
• Weight: 1.5 grams.

A striking 14K gold peridot ring converted from a Victorian stickpin. The oval brilliant cut peridot has superb intense green coloring and is bezel-set in a elegantly-engraved gold collar. The ring has a 14K gold shank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Condition: converted from a Victorian stickpin; excellent condition.
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 7/16".
• Finger Size: 6 1/2.
• Weight: 2.2 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 2.16 carat.

A fabulous Art Nouveau 14K gold ring set with a round brilliant cut peridot flanked by seed pearls. The gem is set in a distinctly Gothic revival quatrefoil design. The gold surfaces are hand-finished and have a matte surface typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The peridot has excellent color and clarity that contrasts beautifully with the bright white pearls. Converted from a stickpin, the piece is now a gorgeous ring. The crown retains the original maker's mark for Shanley Jewelry Company, of the leading Art Nouveau jewelers in the U.S.

• America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from a stickpin.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 5/8".
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Peridot Weight: 1.61 carats.

An elegant and exceptionally high quality pair of earclips in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and sapphires by A Péry et Cie. The earrings feature fields of pave-set round brilliant diamonds bisected by bands of rectangular cut blue sapphires. The diamonds are E color and VS2 clarity; the sapphires are medium-dark strong blue (B6/5) color and eye-clean clarity. Each earring is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and is signed by A. Péry et Cie. The clips have holes, so posts could be added without disrupting the integrity of the earrings.

Péry worked as manufacturer for Van Cleef & Arpels, but also worked for Boivin, Mellerio and other important French jewelers. Péry was responsible for some of VCA most iconic 20th century designs including the Ludo bracelet and the zipper necklace. The Péry ateliers are now owned by VCA.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 14 x 24 mm (9/16 x 15/16 in). Weight: 17.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 ct; sapphire, 3.25 ct.

An exceptionally fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet by Pierre Baltensperger. Each of the plaques represents a different flower, depicted in semi-abstract ways. Among the flowers are daisies, cyclamens, fuschias, morning glories and honeysuckle. Baltensperger was founded in 1878 by Walter Baltensperger, who quickly established the firm’s luxury reputation. His grandson Pierre Baltensperger assumed the lead in 1950. Pierre, born in 1927, became one of Switzerland’s most important sculptors and visual artists, in addition to his work with jewelry. This design, though similar in some respects to Georg Jensen’s work from the 1920s, likely dates to the late 1940s. The clasp is signed “Baltensperger” and has 18K marks and inventory numbers.

Origin: Zurich, Switzerland, ca. 1947. Dimensions: 5/8” x 7-5/8”. Weight: 40.0 gr.

An elegant pair of 19K yellow gold "Contas de Viana" earclips. The domes are covered with concentric circles of ropetwist appliques in the ancient Etruscan style. The clips are stamped with older Portuguese hallmarks for 19K.

Viana beads were modeled on ancient Etruscan jewels found in archaeological sites in Portugal. The circular patterns of filigree and granulation were thought to resemble the eyes of a partridge, bringing luck and protection. A Portuguese girl received her first bead from her godmother at birth. Whenever the family could afford it, another bead was added to the collection with the goal being to create a complete necklace—a circle of protection and good luck—in time for her marriage.

Origin: Portugal, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 9.9 grams.

A very handsome Retro bracelet worked in rose and yellow gold links enhanced with engraving in a snakeskin texture. The color contrast is very attractive, and the links are made in such a way that the bracelet drapes very nicely on the wrist. The box clasp is stamped with Italian gold marks of the period and the goldsmith’s registry number 1 TO for Antica Ditta Marchisio (now Mattioli Gioielli). Founded in 1860, the house is the oldest jeweler in Torino, Italy, and was a maker for several luxury jewelry houses including Cartier.

• Origin: Italy, 1934-40
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide; 8-3/8” long
• Weight: 53.6 grams

An extraordinarily fine Renaissance Revival 14K gold ball fob, suspended from its original chain. The orb is beautifully decorated with foliate engraving in the English style crisscrossed with bands of small natural pearls. The upper half of the orb is set with three blue sapphires in pinched floret mountings. The chain, fashioned as a series of florets, is alternately set with antique cushion cut sapphires and rubies flanked at compass points by natural seed pearls. The chain terminates with its original swivel hook. The rubies and sapphires have good color and show no evidence of heat treatment. The pearls have very luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: sphere, 15mm diameter; chain & fob overall length, 117mm. Weight: 11.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .10 ct; sapphire, .18 ct.

A lovely Retro necklace worked in 14K rose and yellow gold and set with moonstones and amethysts. The necklace descends from a rose gold paperclip link chain toward a pair of openwork yellow gold plaques, each set with a round amethyst accented with a rose gold stylized flower, and flanking a central triangular plaque designed in the same manner. A pair of oval cabochon moonstones is set at either side. The central plaque suspends a larger oval moonstone with a nearly invisible setting. The moonstones have very nice bluish adularescence and the amethysts have rich purple color. The interplay of gemstone and gold colors and the unusual design mixing Victorian, Art Nouveau and Retro elements creates a very striking effect. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: ecellent, all original. Size: 17-5/8” long; central plaque and pendant, 1-3/8” long. Weight: 14.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.43 cts; amethyst, .32 ct.

A very nice Retro 14K yellow gold statement ring set with an imposing lemon yellow emerald cut citrine flanked by natural ruby cabochons. The split shank with a cage setting holds the citrine only at the very corners, so from the top, the entire ring appears to be one large expanse of gemstone. The rubies provided a nice pop of color. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Dimensions: citrine, 19x11mm. Weight: 13.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.16 cts; citrine 23.20 cts.

A very fine Retro Moderne brooch in the form of a three-leaf clover, each leaf fashioned from an heart-shaped aquamarine, and centered with a pearl. The aquamarines are simply framed in gold collet settings with halo wirework accented with beading. The stones, 1.33 carats on either side and 1.87 carats at the top, have stunning pure blue coloring without a hint of gray. The 5.5mm pearl has an ivory body color with rosé overtones, and a very nice, lustrous surface. The back of the brooch retains the original pinstem and safety clasp, and is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: Excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 1-7/32”. Weight: 4.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.53 carats.

A lovely pair of colorful Retro earrings worked in 14K yellow gold. Each earring is fashioned in a stylized fan pattern set at the center with a round brilliant cut blue zircon and a spray of oval cabochon moonstones. The intense electric blue of the zircons heightens the softer, billowy blue adularescence of the moonstones. The zircons are set in rose gold, while the moonstones are in yellow. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8 x 3/4 in. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: zircon, 1.76 cts; moonstone, 7.38 cts.

A beautiful and rare Retro 14K yellow and white gold floral brooch featuring carved jadeite leaves and a carved rock crystal blossom. The rock crystal has an opalescent quality that appears much like moonstone. Both the front and back surfaces are finely engraved to suggest floral textures. The jade is brightly colored and contrasts nicely with the golden stems and leaves. The back is marked “14K”. Carved gemstone floral pins are quite uncommon.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-11/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 12.0 grams.

An elegant Retro Moderne 14K yellow gold brooch in a stylized bow form, the center set with a large emerald-cut citrine of medium honey color, and the loops sprinkled with round brilliant-cut rubies. Some Retro pieces can be overly heavy, but this pin has a pleasant lightness despite its large size. The gemstones are of fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3” x 1”. Weight: 15.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; citrine, 10.4 carats.

A fine Retro brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with diamonds and blue sapphires. The brooch is shaped as a stylized bow when worn vertically or a comet when worn sideways. The gold surfaces are pierced to lighten the overall effect. The center is set with a cluster of round brilliant and single-cut diamonds (J/SI1) surrounded by blue sapphires of slightly violetish-blue color and excellent clarity. The back is marked 14K and also has a mark for an unidentified maker.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 2-5/16" x 1-7/8"
• Weight: 18.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A lovely and unusual Retro 14K yellow gold floral pin, the flower set with a large round moonstone cabochon surrounded by round cut rhodolite garnet petals. The bouquet is tied together with a collet-set round cut citrine. The gemstones are of very fine quality. The moonstone has excellent blue adularescence and the rhodolites have intense raspberry red coloring. Rhodolite garnets are not often seen in Retro jewels. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.0 cts; rhodolite, 3.51 cts; citrine, .45 ct.

A pretty pair of 14K yellow gold earrings in a stylized floral design, each centered with a round opal cabochon. The stones have white body color and a “pinfire” pattern of play-of-color. The shape of the gold setting creates an interesting reflecting pattern with the opals. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent, converted from screwbacks
• Dimensions: 1-1/16” long from top of wire; 5/8” wide
• Approximate Total Opal Weight: 1.2 carats
• Weight: 4.9 grams

A very good Retro tank ring worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum set with diamonds and natural sapphires (natural sapphires in a Retro ring are rather unusual). The larger diamonds (.40 ct, .25 ct, and .25 ct) are all old European cuts. The smaller stones are single cuts. The ring is broad across the finger and is laid out in a very geometric style typical of tank jewelry. The diamonds I color and VS2 clarity. The sapphires show no indication of heat treatment. It is very uncommon to have natural colored stones in a piece or Retro jewelry. The back of the shank is stamped with French import marks for 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: crown, 7/8” x 5/8”; shank tapers to 7/32” at the back
• Weight: 11.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 carats; sapphire, .44 carat.

A superb Retro 14K gold ring in the form of a buckle set with round brilliant cut diamonds and calibre cut natural rubies. The design is enhanced with a prong-set .65 carat diamond solitaire. The diamond is G/H color and VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds are of similar quality. All the diamonds are set in platinum. The rubies have fine color and excellent color. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 17/16” and sits 1/4” high above the finger
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 9.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: diamond, 1.05 carats; ruby, .66 carat

A 14K yellow gold and platinum flexible brickwork strap and buckle ring set with round diamonds and rubies. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 5-3/4 to 10. The style of gem-setting, with the scalloped border, is bolder than many examples. The diamonds average I/J color and SI clarity. The rubies have nicely saturated purplish-red color. Tested and guaranteed 14K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 7/16” wide; buckle 11/16” wide. Finger Size: 5-3/4 to 10. Weight: 12.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .40 ct; ruby, .50 ct.

A fine Retro leaf brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum set with diamonds and sapphires. The curved leaf is lightened by the use of wire construction, a technique often seen in French jewelry of the period. The lower edge of the wire leaf is enhanced with antique cushion and old European cut diamonds, and the upper edge with a row of blue sapphires. Two larger old European diamonds are nestled among the solid leaves to one side. The three largest diamonds range from .55 to .30 carat. All are SI1 clarity I-J color. The sapphires have bright pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The design is versatile and the pin can be worn horizontally with the wire leaf to the left or vertically with the wire leaf at the bottom.

The use of such a range of antique diamond cuts in a piece of this era suggests that the pin was custom-made using diamonds (and possibly the gold) from one of the client's older jewels. This was a common practice during the shortages of World War II. The pinstem is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1948
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 1-1/8"
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.66 carats; sapphire, .46 carat.
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A very attractive Retro 14K yellow gold and platinum ring, set with an old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of round blue sapphires. The stones are set in very interesting mounting with a looping quality typical of Retro pieces. The diamond is I color, I1 clarity and the sapphires are graded as medium tone, moderately strong violet-Blue (vB5/4). Retro pieces set with sapphires are less common than those featuring ruby, citrine, amethyst, etc. The interior of the shank is stamped “585” for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/8” x 3/4”. Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 4.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; sapphire, .39 ct.

Lovely 14K yellow gold Retro Modern brooch set with blue sapphires and diamond. The wreath-like form of this pin is very unusual, and is especially effective when placed against dark fabric. One side of the wreath is anchored by a spray of sapphire "flowers" tied with a diamond-set ribbon. The setting is quite heavy. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, circa 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .55 carat; diamond, .10 carat.

An elegant Retro 14K yellow gold floral brooch, the flower head set with a ring of blue sapphires surrounding a cabochon moonstone. This classic combination of moonstone and sapphire was very popular in Retro jewelry, probably because the color of sapphires brings out the blue undertones of moonstone. The quality of the stones is very fine. The sapphires are a bright cornflower blue, and the moonstone has very good adularescence. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 13.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, .88 carat; sapphire, .43 carat.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.

An elegant 14K rose and yellow gold bow brooch featuring a “knot” invisibly-set calibre-cut green tourmalines. The brooch is also accented with a pair of pearls set in white gold. The tourmalines have very fine bright coloring. The golden bow is worked in both a polished surface and a micro-beaded finish. The latter is a technically difficult texture to achieve and shows the hand of a master jeweler. The back of the pin is marked “RMU” and “585” for 14K gold. The back retains the original trombone clasp.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat.

A Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising hinged links set with amethysts alternating with diamond-set links. The oval mixed-cut amethysts have medium-dark, vivid reddish-purple color and are well-matched. The small old European and brilliant cut round diamonds add a restrained bit of sparkle. The amethysts are set in a way that makes them appear the float in the larger gold links, creating a sense of lightness in the bracelet. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/4” long, 3/8” wide. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; amethyst, 14.0 cts.

A 14K gold and natural ruby Retro figural brooch worked in fashioned as a stem of cherries. The fruit are fully three-dimensional and set with round unheated natural rubies. The design is finished with a gnarly branch and a pair of gold leaves. The rubies have fine clarity and intense color, without the pinkish cast frequently seen in rubies in Retro pieces. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3-3/16” x 1-7/8”
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 4.2 carats
• Weight: 28.0 grams

A very pretty pierced wedding band depicting rose gold Tudor roses alternating with yellow gold clusters of cherries. Each rose is centered with a synthetic ruby. Rubies from the Retro period are almost always synthetics because the mining of natural rubies was not possible during World War II. The design is very crisp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/32" wide
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .28 carat

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring in the Retro Moderne style set with an emerald cut synthetic pink sapphire enclosed at either end with a pair of square cut synthetic rubies and a natural round brilliant cut diamond. The stones are set in an ornate scrolling mount. The colorful design, with its strong contrasts, makes for a very attractive, fun ring. Synthetic rubies and sapphires were frequently used during the Retro period, even by the most exclusive jewelers, because many stones were unavailable to World War II. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent; the ring has been sized up. Dimensions: crown, 20mm x 10mm; back of shank, 5mm. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.2 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 ct; synthetic ruby, .66 ct; synthetic pink sapphire, 6.18 cts.

A superb 6.42 carat natural star ruby set into a late Retro 18K yellow and white gold mounting. The ruby is color-graded as medium-dark, moderately strong purple-red (R/P 6/4). The ruby has fine clarity, without eye-visible inclusions. The cut has excellent symmetry and a high dome, resulting in a well-centered bright star with straight, evenly spaced, long rays. The ruby is set in a very attractive 18K yellow gold setting with geometric white gold accents. The interior of the shank is stamped "18K 750".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 11. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at crown, tapering to 3/8" at back of shank. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.42 carats (by measurement).

A striking Retro floral pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the Retro period, in the late 1930s. The pendant was originally a brooch. The pin has been removed and a 14K gold bail added. The clasp is hinged, so that the pendant can be worn from a thick gold chain or a strand of pearls. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1938
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions (excluding bail): 1-5/8 x 1-15/16 in (41 x 50 mm)
• Weight: 14.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 carat ruby, .60 carat; amethyst, 2.40 carats

An elegant pair of Retro 18K yellow gold earrings shaped as bows. Each of the dangling ribbons suspends an old European cut diamond. The diamonds are graded J color and I1 clarity. These earrings would look just as good with jeans as they would a cocktail dress. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1" x 9/16"
• Weight: 7.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .4 carat

A chic pair of 18K rose gold earclips in bow form, each suspending a pair of tubular chains terminating in platinum-set diamonds. The bows are pave-set with small single-cut diamonds (J/K; SI2) and are accented with arches of round brilliant diamonds (I/J; SI2). The larger diamonds (I; SI1) at the ends of the chains dangle freely for added sparkle. The uneven lengths of the chains complements the asymmetric design of the bows. The backs retain the original clips and posts have been added for pierced ears. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4 x 1-13/16 inches. Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.68 carats.

A lovely stylized flower basket pendant featuring flowers set with diamond, emerald and sapphire centers. The surrounding foliage is worked in a mix of glossy and stippled finishes to add depth and detail. The gemstones are of very good quality, with vivid color saturation and good clarity. The back of the pendant has a fixed bail and a pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. It is stamped with French marks for 18K gold.

Ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-7/16". Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .02 ct; emerald, .07 ct; sapphire, .10 ct.

NOTE: The listed price includes the 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos, but we offer the option to purchase the piece without the chain.

A substantial Retro 18K rose gold bow pin set with diamonds and natural rubies. The center knot features an old mine cut diamond flanked by small rose-cut diamonds set in white gold that extend out across the loops of the bow. Two rows of natural rubies accent the design. The rubies have fine red coloring without the hint of purple often seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940.
• Dimensions: 2 3/8" x 1 1/2".
• Weight: 17.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 carat; ruby, 1.09 carats.
• Condition: excellent, all original.

A stunning Retro 18K yellow gold strap bracelet of flat hexagonal links in the Van Cleef & Arpels style. The bracelet is engraved at regular intervals with highly-detailed honeybees, their bodies represented by elongated cabochons of hessonite garnet. The use of hessonite garnet instead of the more common similarly-colored gemstones such as citrine is an inspired choice. The interior of hessonite has a wavy, “heatwave” appearance that gives the stone visible texture. It is this texture that so successfully mimics the striations on the body of a honeyee. The engraved legs and wings are beautifully executed. Van Cleef & Arpels created the strap bracelet of interlocking hexagonal plates (the “Ludo Hexagone”) in 1935 and it quickly became a favorite motif of luxury jewelers worldwide. They are occasionally set with gemstones, but this exampled with engraved bees is a first! The clasp is marked with illegible hallmarks. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 23/32 in. wide; 7-1/2 in. length. Weight: 61.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.3 cts.

An outstanding Retro 18K gold mesh buckle bracelet generously set with diamonds and rubies. The bracelet is constructed with alternating bands of rose and yellow gold, creating a subtle striped pattern. The buckle is topped with platinum and is set with old European cut diamonds around the frame and calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) on the prong. The tip of the bracelet strap is channel-set with synthetic rubies. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The mesh has a series of six small "belt holes" that allow the bracelet to be sized appropriately in 1/4-inch increments anywhere from 6 to 7 1/4 inches. The buckle is further secured with a safety catch. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
• DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
• WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
• CONDITION excellent

One of the nicest Retro buckle bracelets we’ve seen, this 18K gold and platinum example comprises a strap of honeycomb-shaped links set off with a large buckle pave-set with rose cut and single cut diamonds in platinum. The buckle’s tongue, frame and loop are set with calibre cut synthetic rubies. This bracelet has a particularly sculptural appearance. Rubies from the Retro period are nearly always synthetics because the usual shipping lanes from the gem mines of southeast Asia were cut off because of World War II. The bracelet bears French marks for 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions 7” circumference; strap, 1” wide; buckle, 1-1/2” wide
• Weight: 90.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 4.5 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat

A classic Retro buckle ring worked in 18K yellow gold buckle ring with a platinum loop set with single-cut diamonds and the end tip set with caliber-cut rubies. Unlike in many Retro pieces, the rubies are natural. The ring has four holes that allow it to be adjusted from size 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.

Circa 1935.
• Dimensions: belt, 3/8” wide; platinum loop, 19/32” wide.
• Finger Size: adjustable from 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.
• Weight: 8.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .25 carat; diamond, .12 carat.
• Condition: excellent; fully functional; closes securely.

Superb Retro 18K yellow gold and platinum duette brooch set wtih diamonds and rubies. The design is an exciting overlap of scrolled gold ribbons, the ends accented with platinum and pave-set with round-cut diamonds. The center of the brooch is set with a cluster of prong-set round-cut rubies. The back of the brooch features a mechanism that allows the piece two be disassembled into two separate smaller pins. This "duette" mechanism was used only on the finest pieces during the Retro period. Often, the pair of smaller pins would be worn on either lapel, or sometimes just one pin would be used when a more delicate look was needed. The quality of workmanship is excellent. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 37.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.2 carats; ruby, 1.5 carats.

A superb pair of 18K gold earrings from the Retro period. Each earring is shaped as a pair of golden flowers, the centers collet-set with old European-cut diamonds. They are also designed so that they could be worn as dress clips on either side of the neckline. The flower stems are gathered with double ribbons set with square-cut rubies. The diamonds have very nice color, probably in the G-H range, and good clarity estimated at SI2. The rubies have intense color that contrasts beautifully with the gold. The backs retain the original earclips with small hollowed out areas that can accommodate a small piece of cork, rubber or wax to cushion the clip. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .4 carat; ruby, .22 carat.

A vintage 18K yellow gold heart-shaped pendant/charm, the border set with alternating cushion cut Burmese rubies and old mine cut diamonds. Like most Retro pieces, the large size has great presence. The rubies have fine, bright red color and VS clarity, and display all the characteristics of Burmese rubies. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality, graded as I color, SI clarity. The bail is marked “750” for 18K gold. The pendant is ideal for monogramming, but there is no evidence of any previous engraving.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent, all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1-1/8” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .6 carat; diamond, .4 carat.

A very handsome, heavy 18K yellow gold ring set with a rectangular cushion cut synthetic ruby. The angularity of the setting is particularly attractive. The use of synthetic rubies in the era immediately after World War II is very typical, and this ring would have been expensive. Such stones are often an unattractive, bright orangey-red color. This ruby has a deeper red color modified with a little purple for a very rich look. The stone is well cut, with very good brilliance. The interior of the shank is engraved "Y.M. 9 Decembre 1950", and the back of the shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 3/4". Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.64 ct.

An attracted 18K yellow gold mesh bracelet studded with small round rubies. The design of the mesh has an element of Gothic tracery. As is typical of jewelry from the Retro period, the rubies are synthetic. The clasp is stamped for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 8-3/8”. Weight: 58.8 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.51 cts.

An imposing, yet very wearable Retro ring featuring a large, deeply colored honey-gold rectangular step-cut citrine flanked by lines of calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) between lines of bead-set old European and single-cut diamonds. The color contrast of the stones is quite striking and the size is imposing without being overdone. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 7/8".
• Finger Size: 7-1/2.
• Weight: 9.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 13.12 carats; diamond, .25 carat.

Elegant Retro 18K yellow and white gold brooch in the form of a phoenix--the mythological bird that arises from the ashes. The wings are beautifully formed from ribbons of gold that give the effect of trailing plumage. The body and crested head are fashioned from white gold and are pavé-set with 55 rose-cut diamonds. The white gold not only highlights the diamonds, but also provides a nice contrast with the yellow gold feathers. The eye represented by a brilliant-cut ruby. The brooch has nice depth and flow to the design. The back is stamped with French "tête d'aigle" 18K gold hallmarks, and with an unidentified maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-7/8" x 1-7/8". Weight: 21.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.1 carats; ruby, .05 carat.

A French Retro 18K gold dragonfly brooch, the wings star-set with rubies and sapphires. The dragonfly’s body is worked in a stylized geometric design. The brooch currently has a double fur clip fastener, but would look stunning as a pendant necklace on a split chain (adding a small bail at the tip of each wing is very easy.)

• France, ca. 1935
• Excellent condition
• 1 9/16” wide & 1 3/32” long
• Weight: 6.1 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .20 carat; ruby, .20 carat

An 18K yellow gold and platinum brickwork strap and buckle ring by J. E. Caldwell. The buckle and the tongue of the strap are worked in platinum and set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and VS clarity. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 2 to 8. This style of ring was popular in the Retro period, but only Caldwell, Tiffany and few other luxury makers crafted them with adjustable mechanisms such as this. Stamped with Caldwell’s mark and appropriate serial numbers.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 11/32” wide. Finger Size: 2 to 8. Weight: 8.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .38 cts.

Very nice 14 karat yellow and rose gold brooch in the Retro Modern style, set with a single deeply lustrous 4.5mm pearl. The circle is rose gold, and the leaves are a slightly green-tinted yellow gold. The interplay of gold colors is a signature of period Retro Modern jewelry. The back is marked by the jeweller, A. J. Hedges & Co.

Origin: Newark, NJ, circa 1935. Condition: virutally mint, all original. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8".

A classic Retro 14K gold, platinum, diamond and ruby mesh buckle ring by Tiffany & Co. The folding buckle is set with four round rubies and a small diamond in platinum. The pointed tail of the ring is set with three additional round rubies. The mesh buckle design was popular for bracelets in Retro jewelry, but rings were far less common. In most cases, rings had a false buckle and could not be opened and closed to adjust the size. This example is functional, and can be adjusted from 5-3/4 to 9-1/2. The inside of the clasp is marked by Tiffany.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, one ruby has minor surface abrasion visible under 10x magnification. Size: 11/32” wide. Weight: 7.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .04 ct; ruby, .48 ct.

An elegant pair of Retro 14K yellow gold earclips by Tiffany & Co. The earrings are fashioned as a fold of pleated gold, each with a single 5-mm cultured pearl in the center. The pearls are of fine quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtone. The original clips are the patented adjustable style often seen on Tiffany earrings from the 1940s and 50s. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 11/16”. Weight: 9.1 grams.