Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Victorian (266)

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with an ornately detailed lion’s head. The cat’s mane flares out from the face grasping a round cut diamond and ruby-set eyes. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The gold surfaces have the slightly matte finish popular at the end of the 19th century. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A striking late Victorian 14K yellow gold crucifix set with sapphires, an old European cut diamond and seed pearls. The diamond is graded at I/SI2 and the sapphires are finely colored and show no indication of heat treatment. The gold surface is "bloomed" for a soft matte texture that enhances the gold color but is subdued enough for the religious purpose of the pendant. The bail is original and is stamped for Bippart, Griscom & Osborn, one of the finest Newark jewelers of the era.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-1/14" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 9.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .80 carat; diamond, .23 carat

A lovely Victorian pendant/pin in a snowflake pattern. The 14K yellow mounting is set with seed pearls and sapphires around the central old mine cut diamond. The design is very elegant and delicate. The back retains the original pinstem/clasp and pendant loop. Marked 14K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: one pearl deficient; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 3.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .18 carat; diamond, .03 carat.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with a three-dimensional Scottish halberd (a medieval battle axe) applique set with rose cut diamonds and a Persian turquoise cabochon. The Scottish halberd was a distinctive sort of battle axe developed in Scotland in the late 16th century which eventually came to be associated with ceremonial use by the Scottish nobility. During Queen Victoria’s reign, everything Scottish became very popular, and ancient designs such as this appeared in fashionable jewelry. This is quite an unusual design for a locket and it very rare. The locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “LML” (?). Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A lovely late Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with a coiled snake with a diamond-set head. The serpent’s head and tail are twisted together forming a circle that, in Victorian symbology, represented the eternal nature of love. The snake’s body is very nicely detailed and the 5-point old mine cut diamond has bright color and good clarity. The locket’s smooth surfaces have a slightly matte “Russian” finish that contrasts nicely with the details of the snake. The interior of the locket retains both original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, a few pinpoints on the back side, no monogram. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams.

An elegant Victorian snowflake pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with old mine cut diamonds. The overall effect is very delicate with a lot of sparkle. The center diamond is approximate .33 carat and is graded as I/J, I1; the other diamonds, each .10 carat are I/J color and SI1/2 clarity. The pendant has a folding bail and retains the original pinstem which disappears nicely when being worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.53 carats
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A classic Victorian double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking double links in 14K gold. Substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a large pendant or locket, the chain can also be worn wrapped three to four times around the wrist as a bracelet. The links are also open enough that the chain can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 28” long.
• Weight: 18.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A classic Victorian fancy double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking fluted double links in 14K gold. The fluted shape of the links enhances the reflections in the gold, so the chain has a certain sparkly quality. Substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a large pendant or locket, the chain can also be worn wrapped three to four times around the wrist as a bracelet. The links are also open enough that the chain can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 28.5” long.
• Weight: 14.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A classic Victorian fancy double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking fluted and ropetwist links in 14K gold. The fluted links enhances the reflections in the gold, so they offer a more reflective quality that contrasts nicely with the ropetwist links. The chain is substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a quite large pendant or locket, and the links are open enough that they can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 21” long.
• Weight: 29.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A fine Victorian 14K gold stick pin in the form of a sword. The ornate hilt is bead-set with seed pearls and old European cut emeralds. The emeralds are of very fine quality, with excellent color. The back has a small bale that can be attached to a safety pin and chain, if desired. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: hilt, 7/8” x 3/4"; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 2.5 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .2 carat.

A very good Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the Art Nouveau taste. The top of the pin is in the shape of a horse’s head completed with beautiful enameling. The eye is set with a small round cut ruby. The head is superimposed over a gold horseshoe studded with small old European cut diamonds. The gemstones, though small, are very good quality and provide a nice amount of sparkle. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: overall length, 2-13/32”; head, 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 2.5 grams.

A fine pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold tassel earrings. The foxtail chains are suspended from surmounts enhanced with foliate engraving, black taille d'epargne enameled borders and Etruscan ropetwist "ram's horns". The foxtail chains terminate in small gold balls. The earrings are a bit longer than most tassels and have a lot of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1880
• LENGTH 2 3/8" from tops of wires
• WEIGHT 12.3 grams
• CONDITION excellent; new 14K wires

A handsome late Victorian stick pin featuring a reverse-carved crystal depicting a bulldog. Essex crystals, especially those showing dogs and sporting subjects, were very popular during the last quarter of the 19th century. This example is nicely carved and subtly colored in taupes and blacks. The dog wears a red collar. The crystal is simply set in a yellow gold mounting. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: very good. Size: head, 9/16” x 1/2"; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 2.5 grams.

A rare Victorian 14K yellow gold stick pin featuring a reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting a Chihuahua. Various dog breeds were depicted in Essex crystals, but this is the only piece we’ve seen with a dog that looks like a Chihuahua. The round setting, with its simple but finely crafted rope-twist border highlights the carved crystal. The colors are strong. The background appears to be silvered instead of the more usual mother-of-pearl. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: some oxidation to painted details. Size: head, 13/16” diameter; overall length, 2-3/4”. Weight: 6.75 grams.

A very fine Victorian festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold and set with variously cut amethysts and tiny seed pearls. The central element features two oval and one antique cushion cut amethysts suspending a large antique cushion cut amethyst flanked by a pair of pear-shaped drops and further suspending a more triangular pear-shaped drop. Each of the stones is set in an ornate ropetwist, beaded and scrolled setting in the Etruscan Revival taste. The chain itself is handmade in an equally ornate style of s-scrolls and beading. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 16.5” long; central element, 2.5” long. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 31.05 cts.

A Victorian 14K gold ring featuring an oval garnet cabochon surrounded by a laurel wreath border. The 10 x 7 mm garnet has very attractive coloring that contrasts nicely with the gold setting. Originally a stickpin, a 14K gold shank has been added.

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown 9/16" x 7/16"
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Weight: 2.3 grams

A fine late Victorian 14K yellow gold animal pin in the form of an owl sitting on a branch. The details of the feathers and tree bark are beautifully rendered. The eyes are set with two small garnet cabochons. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped "14K" and also has an unidentified maker's mark. This piece could be worn as a pin or suspended from a chain as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 5/8". Weight: 7.1 gr.

A fascinating Victorian brooch set in 14K yellow gold. The octagonal plaque with canted corners appears to be made of opaque black glass and is inset with an ornate glass design worked in the pietra dura method. The translucent design is backed with gold foil to create a subtle glittery effect. The setting is very simple and does not detract from the more important enamel work. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: Europe, possibly Switzerland, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original, very light surface scratching visible with a loupe. Size: 1-1/8" x 3/4".