Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Victorian (271)

An attractive Victorian shell cameo depicting Diana/Artemis, goddess of the hunt, the moon, and nature. She is shown wearing her crescent moon tiara. As a virgin goddess, Diana was considered the protector of women, especially during childbirth. The cameo is set into a wide gold frame ornately engraved in a floral motif. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, as well as pendant hook that appears to be a later replacement. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• America, circa 1900
• Very good condition; no cracks to shell; replaced pendant hook
• 1-15/15" x 1-5/8"
• 10.8 grams

A fine Victorian locket in 10K yellow gold, the front face featuring an enameled bouquet of white lilies against a striking turquoise enameled background. In Victorian flower symbology, the white lily represented sweetness or purity. The surrounding areas of gold are ornately engraved in a swirly design that is repeated on the back cover around a shield-shaped reserve. The interior retains the original frame and glass cover. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca 1880

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no monogram or removal

Dimensions: 1" x 1-3/16"

Weight: 10.5 grams.

A pretty late Victorian 10K gold locket, the front decorated with a colorful champleve and painted enamel image of a thistle blossom. In Victorian flower language, the thistle represented the sentiment "meddling is unwelcome." One can imagine a rebellious young woman using it to hide the image of a suitor of whom her parents don't quite approve! And of course, the thistle is the emblem of Scotland. The cover opens by pressing on the bail, a mechanism we've never seen before. The interior is stamped 10Ct.

• Origin: probably England, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 13/16" (20 mm) diameter.
• Condition: a small area of missing enamel at the tip of one leaf and a tiny flake at the corner of the thistle blossom (neither are immediately noticeable); a few dimples on the back.
• Weight: 4.1 grams.

Handsome Victorian 10K yellow gold ring in the form of two lion’s claws grasping a large old European cut garnet. The detail in the setting is excellent and the gold has a slightly rosy tint that contrasts nicely with the red stone. The garnet has a lively red color and excellent clarity. The inside of the shank has a pair of monograms. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: very good, sharp detail, slight wear to two prongs, but the stone is secure. Ring Size: 9-3/4. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.22 carats.

Pretty late Victorian pink and white shell cameo set in a 10K yellow gold frame with floral engraving. The back of the setting has both the original pinstem and the original folding bale, so that the piece can be worn as either a brooch or pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, except a fracture near the left edge (perhaps a flaw in the shell itself). Size: 1" x 7/8".

A delightful Victorian reverse carved crystal pendant set in 12K yellow gold. The pendant depicts a Yorkshire terrier (Yorkie). He’s beautifully and deeply carved and painted in shades of brown and cream. The texture of his fur comes across very nicely in the design. The dog wears a blue ribbon around his neck and displays quite a lot of character with a bit of tongue sticking out to one side and one drooping ear. The crystal is backed in gold rather than the mother of pearl that typically appears in later crystals. The pendant is bordered with a double ropetwist border. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no moisture damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 7/8” excluding bail.

A superb pair of Victorian 12K gold articulated earrings set with Whitby jet. The long triangular elements are suspended from inverted double teardrop-shaped surmounts, and support cone-shaped jet drops. The cutting of the jet has a very angular, almost modernist appearance. The earrings hang from new 14K shepherd's hooks and have wonderful movement. The settings are tested and guaranteed 12K.

• Origin: England, ca 1860.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 2-3/16" long from top of the earwire.
• Weight: 3.5 grams.

Exquisite Victorian sticking fashioned from 12K yellow gold, the head in the shape of a horseshoe prong-set with a double row of graduated rose-cut diamonds and cabochon rubies. One of the rubies is an old mine-cut and another is a rectangular cushion-cut. In both cases, the stones appear to be original, as the setting fits them perfectly. Perhaps the jeweler was more interested in matching color than specific cuts. This was not an uncommon practice in the era. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

Origin: probably England, circa 1880. Condition: very good, with wear to some of the outer prongs. Size: head, 5/8” x 9/16”, overall length, 2-7/16”. Weight: 2.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .3 carat; ruby .5 carat.

An outstanding Victorian multi-colored 14K gold watch fob worked in yellow, green and rose gold with platinum. The fob is fashioned as a bouquet of flowers bound together with a scalloped border. The flowers are expertly enhanced with engraved details. The trace link chain alternates between rose gold, green gold and platinum. The swivel is original and is marked "14K."

• America, circa 1890
• Excellent condition; sharp detail
• charm, 5/8" diameter; 4-11/16" overall length
• 9.5 grams

A lovely and very unusual late Victorian circle brooch in 14K yellow gold, enhanced with pearl- and emerald-set flowers and enameled leaves. Each flower is represented by a cluster of six seed pearls centering a small old mind cut emerald. The flowers are set between pairs of leaves delicately enameled in translucent shades of green and yellow. One side of the pin is decorated only with a line of pearls, a nice assymetrical touch. The back retains the original extended pinstem, c-clasp and watch hook. Marked “14”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A lovely Victorian starburst pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with an old mine cut diamond at the center. Stars in Victorian jewelry symbolized guidance and wisdom. Most Victorian starbursts have straight rays, but the Art Nouveau-influenced curlicue design of this example makes it especially nice. The diamond at the center has good brilliance, I/J color and VS1 clarity. The pendant retains the original brooch fitting, as well, but it is very well hidden when being worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K (the newer bail is marked 10K).

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .35 carat
• Weight: 4.3 grams

A lovely late Victorian brooch featuring an oval-cut amethyst flanked by a pair of 7mm half-pearls surrounded by rose-cut and old-mine cut diamonds. The amethyst has nice coloring and clarity that contrasts nicely with the creamy color and soft luster of the pearls. The tiny diamonds add just a hint of sparkle. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-9/16” x 5/8”. Weight: 7.75 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 4.85 carats; diamond, .25 carat.

A fine Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob pendant featuring a 23.5-carat oval brilliant cut amethyst nested in the coiled tail and wings of a ferocious dragon. The tail and wings are very nicely detailed with scales and feathers. The dragon's neck forms the bail from which the pendant would hang. The amethyst has very nice even coloring, eye-clean clarity and good cut. Jewels featuring mythological creatures became popular in Paris around 1870 and the craze then spread to England and America. Being worked in 14K gold (tested and guaranteed), this example is certainly American.

• America, ca. 1875
• Very good condition; sharp detail to gold work; minor wear abrasions to facet junctions (mostly along the keel at the back of the stone) on the amethyst consistent with age
• 1-3/16" x 1-1/4"
• 10.79 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 23.5 carats

A 14K yellow gold gypsy ring with a hand-engraved scrolling motif to the shank on either side of a high-domed cabochon emerald. The emerald is graded as dark vivid green (G7/6) with moderate clarity and color enhancement typical of emeralds. The resulting color contrast with the gold setting is especially attractive, as is the classic tapering shape of the shank. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Dimensions: 7/16" wide, tapering to 5/32" at the back of the shank. Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: 1.03 carat.

A very nice 14K yellow gold man's ring set with a rectangular carnelian plaque with canted corners. The gold surfaces are entirely covered with an hand-engraved foliate design. The gemstones in rings of this type were sometimes engraved with the owner's coat of arms, but this example has never been engraved. The stone's color and the overall impressive size of the ring make this a particularly nice example. The interior is marked 585.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp details. Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown, tapering to 1/4" at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 17.4 gr.

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold fob seal, the surfaces ornately decorated in a repousse pattern of flowers and foliage. Fobs in this design are more typically English than American. It is very generously sized to make an impression when being worn. The citrine plaque is engraved with the monogram “WKV”, so we’ll just assume that was for William K Vanderbilt (LOL!) The ring is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1840
• Dimensions: 1” x 7/8” x 1-1/2” (excluding ring)
• Weight: 19.5 grams

An elegant pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with Mediterranean coral. The engraved mountings are set with coral bars and an applied vine motif. The drops can be removed from the surmounts for a more restrained appearance for daytime wear. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" from top of wire.
• Weight: 5.5 grams.

An unusual and very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet. The front is decorated with cutwork in a wheat pattern enhanced with ropetwist borders in the Etruscan Revival style. The cutwork panel is worked in yellow gold while the bracelet’s outer borders are in a slightly rosier shade. The back panel is plain. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: all ropetwist intact; no damage to front panel; typical small dings on back panel. Dimensions: 7/8” wide; 6-1/4” interior circumference. Weight: 39.8 grams.