Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Victorian (266)

Fine Napoleon III 18K yellow gold pansy brooch, the upper large petals accented with a lacy pierced floral border and the lower petals with a row of alternating rose cut diamonds and antique cushion cut rubies. The gold surfaces have a matte finish that mimics the velvety texture of pansy blossoms. Delicate engraving brings out the veining on the lower petals. The diamonds and rubies are of fine color. In the Romantic language of flowers, the pansy was used to symbolize remembrance (the French word for pansy is the same as the word for thought). The diamond and ruby border is faintly heart-shaped, perhaps adding another layer of secret meaning. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp fully stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1-7/32". Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .37 ct; ruby, .72 ct.

Breathtaking French 18K gold, silver, diamond and pink tourmaline brooch from the reign of the Emperor Napoleon III. The brooch is formed as a naturalistic swirl of leaves, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. The design features three large old mine-cut diamonds, each a bit larger than 1/2 carat. The center stone is prong-set while the outer stones are collet-set. The old European cut diamonds are scattered along an unusual knife-edge setting at the top of the brooch. The gold setting is topped with silver in the traditional style of 19th century French jewels. The brooch suspends a collet-set oval pink tourmaline cabochon topped with a collet-set old European-cut diamond. The diamonds used in the period, as would be expected of such a significant piece. The color is a very bright white and the clarity is quite good for the period. The tourmaline is a soft pink shade with just a tinge of violet. The brooch retains the original extended pinstema and c-clasp, both of which are stamped with French 18K marks and the mark of an unidentified jeweler (AH).

Origin: Paris, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-19/32". Weight: 11.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.6 carats; tourmaline, 1.5 carats.

A pretty 18Kyellow gold pin in the shape of a salamander from the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. Animal brooches were very popular in the mid-19th century, and reptiles were especially favored. The salamander has a long history in France, and was the personal symbol of King François whose rule began in the late 15th century. This example is beautifully engraved with delicate scales, claws, and eyes. The back is set with a line of alternating seed pearls and Persian turquoise cabochons. The head is set with a larger turquoise. The original clasp is marked with the “tête de cheval” hallmark used only outside Paris between 1838 and 1919.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-7/16” long. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with Persian turquoise cabochons. The stones are nicely matched for color. The gold surface is stippled and engraved in a rayed pattern with a foliate border. The engraving on the back takes design elements from the front. The interior has a glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The original bail, also engraved and set with a turquoise cabochon, is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with rhodolite garnets. The garnets have very fine color with bright shots of violet. The gold surface is stippled. The back cover is ornately engraved in a checkerboard pattern. The interior has a hinged glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Total Gemstone Weight: 3.71 carats
• Weight: 6.6 grams

A lovely mid-19th century locket worked in 18K yellow gold set with rubies and natural seed pearls. The setting is enhanced with geometric appliques, engine-turned engraving, rope twists, and a beautifully fashioned bow concealing the bail. The rubies have very good color and are unheated. The locket retains its original reeded jump ring, as well. The back is decorated with engine-turned engraving. The interior retains the original gold frame and glass cover. Faintly marked with French 18K gold marks and a maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1” x 2-1/16” (including jump ring)
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .21 carat
• Weight: 14.6 grams

A beautiful pair of 14K yellow gold double curb link bracelets. The links are enhanced with ornate repousse decoration but could be worn inside out when a smoother look is called for. The clasp of each bracelet is stamped with Viennese 14K gold marks used 1872-1902. The bracelets are priced as a pair, but are available separately.

• Origin: Austro-Hungarian Empire, 1872-1902
• Condition: excellent, no dings
• Dimensions: 7-3/4” long; 1/2” wide
• Weight: 47.3 grams

A very fine matched pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets presented in their original fitted box. Each bracelet is fashioned with a buckle design and accented with ornate engraved and basse taille enamel decoration in a foral pattern. The edges of the bangles have bright cut engraving that lends a little glitter. The bracelets are generously sized with 3/4" width.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: the exterior of both bangles are in mint condition with absolutely no enamel damage or dings; the interiors of both have a very few, shallow pinpoints; one bracelet retains the original patented safety mechanism (dated 1870), while the other has been replaced with a safety chain; the original fitted case shows considerable wear. Size: 3/4” wide; interior opening, 2-1/8” x 1-11/16”. Weight: 68.4 grams.

A striking 14K gold peridot ring converted from a Victorian stickpin. The oval brilliant cut peridot has superb intense green coloring and is bezel-set in a elegantly-engraved gold collar. The ring has a 14K gold shank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Condition: converted from a Victorian stickpin; excellent condition.
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 7/16".
• Finger Size: 6 1/2.
• Weight: 2.2 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 2.16 carat.

An extraordinarily fine Renaissance Revival 14K gold ball fob, suspended from its original chain. The orb is beautifully decorated with foliate engraving in the English style crisscrossed with bands of small natural pearls. The upper half of the orb is set with three blue sapphires in pinched floret mountings. The chain, fashioned as a series of florets, is alternately set with antique cushion cut sapphires and rubies flanked at compass points by natural seed pearls. The chain terminates with its original swivel hook. The rubies and sapphires have good color and show no evidence of heat treatment. The pearls have very luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: sphere, 15mm diameter; chain & fob overall length, 117mm. Weight: 11.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .10 ct; sapphire, .18 ct.

A fine 14K yellow gold griffin stickpin by Riker. The eye is set with a bright faceted ruby and the claw grasps an old European cut diamond. As with all Riker pieces, the gemstones are of excellent quality. This stick pin could be worn as is, or converted to a ring or necklace charm. The reverse is stamped with Riker's hallmark.

• America, circa 1880
• Head, 5/8" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2"
• 1.8 grams
• Approximate diamond weight: .05 carat

An elegant love knot pendant in 18K gold and platinum set with rose cut diamonds and a ruby at the center. The gold surface has a matte finish typical of French jewelry at the end of the 19th century. The pendant was originally a scarf clip and still retains the clip mechanism. A double bail allows it to be worn as a pendant. The bail's surface finish matches the rest of the knot, and the maker's marks are applied to the bail rather than to the body of the clip, suggesting that the double bail is original to the piece. NOTE: The chain is shown only for display purposes.

• France, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; original finish; no dings.
• 11/16" diameter (excluding bail).
• 2.8 grams.

A very fine 14K rose gold brooch mounted with a Scottish Terrier carved from banded agate. The dog's head is beautifully rendered, using the stone's natural banded coloring to represent the dark colored muzzle and ears that contrast with the brighter carnelian of the fur. The eyes are represented by small round cut demantoid garnets set in a manner that nearly completely hides the gold collets holding the stones. The workmanship of the carving is first-rate. The setting is rather simple an does not detract from the beauty of the hardstone carving.

Faberge was a leading creator of hardstone carvings, and used carvings created in his own workshops as the shops of others. In Paris, Cartier was determined to compete with Faberge and also produced hardstone carvings. The Cartier versions, however, tended to be a little less realistic and rarely relied on the natural color variations of the stone material. The coloring technique strongly suggests that this carving is the product of a Russian workshop contemporary with Faberge, and possibly that of the master himself.

There appears to be a rubbed-out hallmark on the back side. This is occasionally seen in Russian pieces that had their marks obliterated shortly after the Revolution as their owners tried to smuggle jewels out of the country. Tested and guaranteed to be 56 zlotniks (slightly purer than 14K).

Origin: Russia, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-1/16". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Demantoid Weight: .1 ct.

A very fine 14K gold stickpin in the form of a horse's head by Sloan & Co. They eye is set with a small ruby cabochon. The horse is entirely three-dimensional, worked with as much detail on the back as the front. The stick pin can easily be converted to a pendant or ring. The base of the neck is stamped with Sloan's 14K gold mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: head, 7/8" 5/8"; overall length, 2 15/16".
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A nice bracelet comprising twelve Victorian era 14K and 10K gold slides. The slides are in various styles, but are all original to the Victorian period. Slide bracelets enjoyed a moment of popularity in the 1930s when older Victorian pieces were dismantled and converted into a new style of charm bracelets. The first, tenth, eleventh and twelfth slides (L to R in the first photo) are 10K. The others are 14K. The diamonds, opals, turquoise and pearls are natural; the sapphires and rubies are glass. The two opals, in particular, are very nice quality. The slides are strung on a 14K gold double chain with 14K gold spacer beads and a 14K clasp. Tested and guaranteed metal content.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1860-1900
• DIMENSIONS 7 3/4" long
• WEIGHT 16.5 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, .03 carat; opal, .6 carat
• CONDITION excellent, a few light pinpoint dings on the largest slide

A lovely Victorian 10K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an embossed lion’s head. The lions mouth grasps an old mine cut diamond and the eyes are set with bright demantoid garnets. The small diamond is nice quality with bright color and good clarity. Demantoids were only discovered in Russian in 1868, so it was still a fairly novel gemstone when this locket was created. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original, no dings or monograms. Dimensions: 1†diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

An attractive Victorian shell cameo depicting Diana/Artemis, goddess of the hunt, the moon, and nature. She is shown wearing her crescent moon tiara. As a virgin goddess, Diana was considered the protector of women, especially during childbirth. The cameo is set into a wide gold frame ornately engraved in a floral motif. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, as well as pendant hook that appears to be a later replacement. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• America, circa 1900
• Very good condition; no cracks to shell; replaced pendant hook
• 1-15/15" x 1-5/8"
• 10.8 grams

A fine Victorian locket in 10K yellow gold, the front face featuring an enameled bouquet of white lilies against a striking turquoise enameled background. In Victorian flower symbology, the white lily represented sweetness or purity. The surrounding areas of gold are ornately engraved in a swirly design that is repeated on the back cover around a shield-shaped reserve. The interior retains the original frame and glass cover. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca 1880

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no monogram or removal

Dimensions: 1" x 1-3/16"

Weight: 10.5 grams.